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simicrintz

Stripped front axle nut-help please

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Whooo that KUG destroyed your nice bike . The pictures make it look like a hack job but a little sandpaper will clean up his bike. That thing was realy welded on their. We had 2 thirds of the flange off before it let go. I took some intrest in it as I change between two wheel sets . I think a metal bolt thingy would be better. That bolt cap thing was realy soft. 

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Very appreciative for you stopping by and getting that thing unstuck: the scars will be a memory and are not a problem.  

That was a challenge and I hope that my mistake of over tightening does not happen to anyone else.  Thank you again for making it happen, Kug!

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Craziest thing I've seen in a while.  Super soft material and everything we tried just took away more material.  Vise grip was stronger than the metal and just took big chunks as it spun and then slipped.  Heat did nothing at all.  Kug trying to notch and spin it with the chisel and hammer just sheared off more metal. It really took the notching of the nut and removal of half to release the pressure of the shoulder mated to the fork.  Can't believe how soft that was and how strongly attached it was; super happy it is out and the new one will go in lightly tightened!

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PS the axle cap screw positions your axle in the fork foot.

the LHS is the key side. the RHS is the float side on the shoulder of the axle, the LHS should have the axle cap snug which sets the position of the axle then the left clap screws snug. then bounce suspension to unload and align the RHS with the forks then snug RHS and finally tighten all lower clamp screws to spec.

PPS before all of this the upper fork clamps should all be relieved/leveled and torqued to spec then procede to the above.

 

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Here is my mental picture of the engineering of that assembly.

A. Slide the axle through the forks and wheel.

B. Leaving just 1/8" of the steel axle exposed on the right side, hand tighten one of the 6mm pinch bolts.

C. Install the left side 20mm axle screw. Tighten to 35 Nm.  This brings all the bearings into proper spacing.

D. Tighten the 2 left side 6mm pinch bolts to 15 Nm.  This locates the wheel assembly to the left fork.

E. Loosen the right side 6mm pinch bolt and place the bike on the ground. Holding the front brake, bounce the front        triple aggressively to locate the right fork to proper alignment to the left fork. Tighten the two right 6mm pinch bolts.

The axle assembly will have stayed in proper spacing because of the shoulder on the axle holding the right spacer in place.

I need to go through this in my mind every time that wheel is assembled. For some reason it is hard to visualize and easy to get the forks in a bind. 

 

 

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Holy crap!  Changing the front tire on the red bike is so much easier!  This is like a giant puzzle with so many parts; I guess I better get used to "German engineering" instead of "Japanese engineering"!  

New nut should be here this week I will reinstall as suggested above (less any torque wrench; I'm going back to feel!).  Thank you all for being here for me; I hope nobody else has to deal with this and this was helpful . 

I gotta go to work now :( 

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Thanks for sharing the experience. I’ve been removing that cap 5 or 6 times a year for 13 years or so (multiple bikes) and have never had an issue. I know that it doesn’t really hold anything so I’ve never given much thought in how tight it is. I will make sure I never over tighten it.

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1 hour ago, Oracle said:

I've never felt sorry for a lower fork leg before...:heh: 

 

I know.

I've tried, but I just can't unsee that.

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It ain't pretty but the $%#& thing is off so I am happy.  And I am pretty sure it will buff right out....

Torque wrench returned; snug from now on is my mantra.

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Last update:  Screw (official term) came in today.  A little emery cloth touched things up nicely and the new screw is snug.  Looks good as new!

Picked these up for the price of the cheap (returned) torque wrench.  Pretty slick that I have the right size to change the wheel and change a tire all in one!  They are packed on the bike :)

Nut.jpeg

Tire irons.jpeg

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ZipTy Racing makes these replacements , which are close to flush mount and with the inside square drive they don't get hit by trail stuff.. They use a 3/8 drive square drive, just plug in your 3/8 ratchet or extension and screw them in or out.

Been using them for a number of years under hard use with no issues. (Yes my wheel is off) PS those plastic caps are also ZipTy Racing items, Ty makes Yamaha style seal covers/spacers for KTM/Husky too. And yes my bike is a ZipTy Racing equipped representing the shop machine with all the bullet proof "You Can't Fake Fast" bling. And I always use anti-seize paste on threads that require periodic removals.

IMG-4677.jpg

IMG-4678.jpg

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On 11/5/2019 at 7:16 AM, Mr.JAJA said:

Na siste, Geht nicht, giebt es nicht.😎

For us Uni-lingual's. . . "no such thing as no can do"

 

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anti-seize paste is always needed where two different metals meet.  Steel / Stainless steel, Aluminum / Steel, ec.

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On 11/11/2019 at 12:31 PM, simicrintz said:

Never used anti-seize before but have some now; I still have so much to learn!

Wish I had seen this could of tig welded an aluminum bar to that nut for leverage and gotten it off real quick for ya, and I'm nearby too 

oh well the Kug method always works too

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9 hours ago, DSM8 said:

Wish I had seen this could of tig welded an aluminum bar to that nut for leverage and gotten it off real quick for ya, and I'm nearby too 

oh well the Kug method always works too

I hate dragging others in to my problems and am always reluctant to ask.  I remember that you are close (I came to one of the work parties a while back) but probably wouldn't have bothered you even I had remembered you could do this!  Very cool of you though 🍺🍺

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Its not a bother when it  takes 5 minutes of my time to save you hours of frustration and lost entertainment for us

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2 hours ago, DSM8 said:

Its not a bother when it  takes 5 minutes of my time to save you hours of frustration and lost entertainment for us

If I can be comic relief I am happy to do so!

Let me throw this one out (seems a little black cloud is currently following me around; I'll shake it off soon!):  Went to do an oil change in my truck ('05 Duramax) today, like I've done dozens of times (220,000 miles; bought new).  Tightening up the oil drain plug and it starts to spin instead of seating.  Won't go in or out any farther than where it is (it's "tight" up against the oil pan but not tight enough to not leak and I can spin it by hand).  Yes-I reused the old drain plug.  I tried putting a vice grip on it and pulling away, hoping to get a thread to bite but no luck.  I tried to wedge a screwdriver in between the oil pan and the drain plug while trying to back the drain plug out with no luck either.  Can't really tell what happened (I was tightening with a standard ratchet) but it almost feels like it went in past the threads (can't quite picture that though).

I have plans on taking it to my mechanic Monday morning but if anyone has another idea I still have tomorrow.  I have work on Monday that I need the truck for so I would love to get it done myself and stay on track (I can easily reschedule the job if needed).

Not gonna start a new thread with my latest drama, but if someone sees this and has a slick solution I appreciate it!

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Stripped, probably threadsonpan. Remind me but is it a steel small pan bolted to the big aluminum one?

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Screenshot_20191116-163843.thumb.png.21b0babba0581f4ad959ed8df86de9b3.png

Like this guy bolted to the big aluminum pan. If so I would just replaced the small steel pan with new one and be done with it. Seen it could times at old shop where we would do someone's oil change for first time and it would spin not coming out. Surprised didn't leak but don't trust it .

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