robertaccio

From the Jarvis school (and straight from trials) . I see so many folks and even accomplished riders hop and unload the rear in sticky,hang up situations. This causes rut digging and wheel spin with zero forward motion, or gets you moving forward but with great effort from the bike and rider. For example watch Graham, he is the king of rear wheel loading to get power to the ground to propel himself forward (and straight up as well)with minimal effort. Its rare to see him without at least one foot pushing down into his foot peg. Play with it its all about timing, clutch control and rear wheel loading, easy to practice the timing of it on small stuff even relatively flat surfaces. It also works great for down hill drop offs to get your front up and the rear within the envelope of control. Works on all bike sizes and types going up and going down hill.

aiming for it

Paul, you are correct with that , but fact is I have boiled my Evans its just is at a higher boiling point, i really cant see with other than some ancillary issues with "soft" parts that the engine could be ruined , Tecate enduro Ive boiled it at least once and in a NHHA . At most that's probably around 400 F metal parts should be fine up there. Boil recovery is very quick as soon as you get air back through the rads. It has many benefits from the usual low vapor pressure under normal operating engine temps , so even if you spike/cactus a hose it will barely leak, you can pop your cap while its running fairly safe without getting exploded on. PS note if it does boil over the steam and diffused liquid becomes quite flammable under that condition as seen at one of the Texas extreme enduros a few years back, on a 4T the header can lite the stuff off. everything has plusses and negs for my use the plusses outweigh the negatives. Also as you noted it keeps the liquid in place for heat transfer and prevents air boil hot spots . note without pressure water boils at 212F at sea level with a pressure cap some what higher , and of course with a OEM standard coolant/AF its higher, with standard Evans is @ 375 F with a pressure cap probably a bit higher. we have choices MXA has a fairly good very simple write up on their Evans test (1 KTM 350 with Evans one with Maxima coolant) with some numbers and they are critical as usual and not just magazine fanboys as usual. BTW I used Maxima Coolant ( I use all Maxima products) extensively prior to my Evans switch. I also used ZipTy coolant for a while , he had an even different formula, but I went to Evans due to its widespread availability, and the Evans owner/chemical engineer's son (product sales) sold me on their brand at the MXGP at Glen Helen. Many of the MXGP teams had it their race bikes. Ken's and Pauls setup with a fan is the very bullet proof setup, I have not really found the need for a fan...except for my few boil over moments. If you stick with standard cooling liquid I would fan the bike and trailtech is the best set up, I know Kelly one of their design and test guys, they are hardcore riders that build racing quality stuff. PPS lets all be careful this could turn into a rotella thread!!!!!

You guys should all do Evans non aqueous Evans Powersports coolant. And of course if you are slow going a fan is good thing to have as well.

you guys do what you want but from experience use the brand you choose and use their engineered products from A to Z . Use No-Toil buy the entire no toil kit . A few of my crew use No toil I know at least one puts his filters in the dishwasher (soap/no toil cleaner ?? IDK). But heck buy the entire package if that's your choice, at least then you can consult with the mfgr if you have concerns. I use maxima products from A-to Z . FFT spray and red can filter cleaner, they designed the products to work with each other, no?

doesn't matter whose at fault bikes always lose when mixed with 4 wheeled vehicles, do your best not to be in the blender. Truck 1, bike nil.

RFS=Bullet proof, just continue to keep dust and dirt out of it , even from the carb vents (overlooked easy to take care of with after market vent filters) , and keep her well oiled (no oil thread here) they are designed and designated RFS engines- Racing Four Strokes and use minimal oil , designed to be changed often as stated above.

ride moto on sand = ride jetski on water. no fear lots of gas butt back loose arms and let the nose skim, no throttle chops especially on 4T, smooth off the gas, but ok hard on the gas. hard to relate to their level but watch slo mo of Herlings and or Cairoli riding a MX sand track, for the perfect body position, they are the model of getting the most out of deep sand on a moto, for older model look, watch Stefan Everts , a model for his good example is when he rode the ISDE in Brazil and OA the event, the beach sand was like sugar, Stefan rode it almost effortlessly while other world class guys were having difficult days.

I I'm feelin ya, not about the time zone thing but about the accent zone thing (born in NYC grew up in Huntington LI). Mine has been neutralized from not living there since the mid eighties.

what no FISH!!!! hahahaaa HB Kenny!!

my first real bike was a gold with white trim one of those CB100s. circa around the same time frame, I rode that thing as full on DS machine, street , woods and farmers field flat tracking. bullet proof Honda!

what if we start an oil thread and charge every comment $1...…………...

sent 25 PayPal on 6 FEB sent 5 more today to cover 2019s update to 30 bucks. I am here and although many of you never see me. My riding is more non plated more to the more sporty side of the fence. I value this site because it is local, it is well managed, it is welcoming, it provides moto connections for members, its members speak in the forum with some dignity and respect for others. I am glad this local DS site exists and I am happy to contribute some of my own library of information on all things moto to those in need or by request. Thanks SDAR.

that may be the ADV bike that turns my big bike switch on. by all accounts it can be at the extreme out of the box. most of my crew have 1090R s with mega bucks of parts and heavy on the suspension 101 packages for hardcore expert level adv riding. this thing appears by top tier reports to be very hardcore capable out of the box. See Motology's Adam Riemann tests and Quin Cody's viddy reports. Cool stuff Randy the standard sized Enduro bike gap is very close but still far enough to be ADV for more stable HD long range stuff.

FMF PowerCore 2.1 Ti ……..