Bagstr 288 Posted September 28, 2015 Prefer Water Based mixture for the radiator system. Evans, Zip-Ty, Engine Ice. It would seem to be wise out on remote trips to be able to top off with agua. B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rojodogg 0 Posted September 28, 2015 I use the yellow 50/50 antifreeze/coolant from autozone or the green, just as long as it is a half and half water blend. It is like Bagstr said easier to top off with water. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 412 Posted September 28, 2015 robertaccio's choice zipty xf2 non acqueous but its ok to add water in a pinch ,,,but the stuff is so extreme I seriously doubt you ever need to unless you spring a leak. PS ZipTy XF1 version is Evans powersports coolant relabled with the ZipTy Label under license. The XF2 is a new formula developed from ZipTys engineer to raise the boiling point even higher and making it less viscous than the XF1 (Evans) version. You get higher flow rate/faster coolant movement in the system with higher boiling point--- win win. Also because of the nature of the coolant it has little or no expansion rate.....if you hooked up a pressure gauge it would remain right near zero(ambient)- so even if you stab a hose it barely leaks even when hot. IMHO its the most bullet proof stuff you can use. In races in bottle necks Ive watch all the other bikes steaming up a storm, sure mine is hot as well but its not steaming having hot spots and losing coolant http://www.ziptyracing.com/xf2-waterless-coolant/ PS this could turn into a dreaded "oil" thread......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dress4Less 162 Posted September 28, 2015 Been using Engine Ice for years...no boiling...ever. PSS this could turn into a dreaded "oil" thread......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bagstr 288 Posted September 28, 2015 Quick of the Draw Guys, Thanks. Also hearing ( from a reliable source ) Water Wetter is solid choice.. No doubt Robert, I have used Non Acq Zip-Ty before and it is a good product. Just prefer water based even if less swell at the margin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PbdBlue 46 Posted September 28, 2015 +1 on Engine Ice. Compatible with water if you need to add in a pinch. From what I've read EI is Proplyene Glycol + water + water wetter. Seems to work well and easy to find. My experience Engine Ice + fan seems to get the job done with minimal fuss. Water Wetter is a surfactant. Makes the antifreeze solution hydrophilic as opposed to hydrophobic. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kkug 147 Posted September 28, 2015 What did you use in your 350 and did you have any problems with it ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
REV5 0 Posted September 29, 2015 Probably a silly question. Does water based coolant mean there is water in it? If so, I thought the whole idea of upgrading coolant was to eliminate water vapor to stop overheating, corrosion and pressure. If a coolant isn't water based yet compatible with water that seems the way to go. Does anyone have any charts and scientific writings on the pros and cons of this subject. I believe I read a very detailed and informative write up on motorcycle oil last year. I was thinking we can take this in that direction. Thank you, Motorcycle riding enthusiast Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
REV5 0 Posted September 29, 2015 I have no idea what this is but it looks like double tailed sperm trying to get out of the egg. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bagstr 288 Posted September 29, 2015 Thanks Gang!! Already more info than I can process. Shut it down, before it gets to RiggerDan or CID. I will never live it down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PastaPilot 17 Posted September 29, 2015 Peak Antifreeze. Worked for McGrath in 1992. Works for me in 2015. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted September 29, 2015 Peak antifreeze long life. It's silicate free and the same active ingredient as every other coolant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 912 Posted September 29, 2015 Brawndo. It's got what bikes crave. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amgems 79 Posted September 29, 2015 Peak antifreeze long life. It's silicate free and the same active ingredient as every other coolant. Silicate free is an important property, reduces wear on the water pump seals and shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 412 Posted September 29, 2015 lets turn this into a spark plug thread--what about splitfire plugs ???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PbdBlue 46 Posted September 29, 2015 Peak antifreeze long life. It's silicate free and the same active ingredient as every other coolant. Silicate free is an important property, reduces wear on the water pump seals and shaft. I think virtually all anti-freeze is silica free anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HotRod82 2 Posted September 29, 2015 Long time water wetter user here, I use it in all my high performance stuff. Never had an issue. One thing I have learned from a little research is a 50/50 glycol and water mix is the worst at dissipating heat, much worse than straight water. Glycol raises the boiling point but lessens the heat absorption capabilities of water. That said, it's only an issue if you have a bike that tends to overheat..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted September 29, 2015 I've used the waterless stuff and it worked as advertised. Which is why I no longer use it. The waterless stuff will reduce boilover, but it does not make the bike run cooler, and does not reduce overheating. This is important- that's why I used bold type. The bike CAN overheat without telling you (usually steam, etc) and if overheated enough, it can damage the engine. Were I racing, I'd worry overheating will reduce the coolant level and keep me from continuing the race. Eveans would be the stuff I'd use. That does not matter to me as an olde trail guy. I'd prefer to let the bike tell me it's too hot, and top up, if necessary, with water from my camelbak. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skeelo221 0 Posted September 29, 2015 I think virtually all anti-freeze is silica free anymore. Not many say it explicitly. Which is why I use Zerex Asian Formula which spells it out in plain engrish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 561 Posted September 29, 2015 Yup, silicates are hard on the seals of your cooling system. I use Hondaline green for most of my bikes. I'm using Agip blue in my WR 125 right now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dress4Less 162 Posted September 29, 2015 lets turn this into a spark plug thread--what about splitfire plugs ???? Ha! Now that could be a "painful" thread... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 412 Posted September 29, 2015 Jays garage, FYI Jay talks about Evans (ZipTy's XF1 was the red label product on the left) with Evans rep. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darylhunter 1 Posted September 29, 2015 Thanks, that was a good video. Got me thinking about switching over the coolant in my motorhome. 350 Cummins, that will be a bit painful to the pocketbook, but anything to improve cooling for climbs up some of the longer grades on hot days would be really helpful. Definitely will make the switch on my bike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted September 30, 2015 You can run straight peak and get the same effect for less money. Read the bottle and look at the boiling point of Evans vs any other non diluted anti freeze. It's the same boiling point. I just mix my antifreeze with less water if I want to raise the boiling point for instance I would run 70% coolant in a 4T and 50% in my 2T. Does not have to be mixed 50/50 for any reason. You can custom tune your mix for your needs. 12$ a gallon. It's glycol. So is evans. So is engine ice. It's not some magic fluids. All of the coolants have the same basic boiling point and ingredients. You can look at material safety data sheets for all these products online and see exactly what you are buying if you care to. They are very easy to find with google. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites