Goofy Footer 322 Posted March 17, 2015 I believe my countershaft seal is leaking oil on a 2006 WR250f I changed front/rear sprockets and installed a new chain before my baja ride last weekend and I was getting a few drops here and there on the garage floor after test riding it. I assumed the oil was simply oil that had spilled over during my pre-ride oil change and was trapped in the skidplate. After 250+ miles I checked the bike and the countershaft nut was finger tight (aka loose as all hell)! I had used a torque wrench to tighten down the countershaft nut (clearly I think I used an incorrect / too low torque number..). How often do these seals go bad? It could be that my countershaft nut torque wasn't set properly (Does Anybody Know An Approximate "Correct" Torque Setting For This Nut?) - in the past I just Goofy torqued it by hand and never had an issue on the DRZ. It could be that my chain is too tight (I don't think so) or something else..? Any pointers on to attack this? It looks like the countershaft seal can easily be replaced from outside the case (thank you Yamaha!). Should I go Moose/All-Balls kit or OEM parts for the seal if I need it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 322 Posted March 17, 2015 PS - yes yes, I see that I'm a dumbarse and forgot to fold down the tab on the lil lock spacer thingy. That probably didn't help my seal / countershaft nut... Doh! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 40 Posted March 17, 2015 When I upped the WR to a 14T countersprocket I torqued the nut to 54 ft lbs, given how similar the rest of the torque specs have been between my Yamahas I'd bet yours is the same. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kato 53 Posted March 17, 2015 Clean/degrease toroughly, change seal, and reinstall with loctite (on both splines and thread). I use impact gun for that one personally Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 425 Posted March 17, 2015 Couldn't tell ya about torquing the nut. All of my bikes just have a retaining clip to keep the sprocket in place. Most sprockets have a spacer collar behind them, and under that is an O ring. So you can remove the sprocket and the spacer, then pick out the o ring. There is now room to use a seal puller on the outside case seal. Although it is often just that O ring that leaks, best to replace both the case seal and the o ring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 773 Posted March 17, 2015 ^ Yep, just what Mimi said. I'd just order whichever kit is cheaper or whatever you can get quicker, not much difference in the seals I'm sure. I don't use loctite, but it can't hurt. It's always fun to torque those, hold down the rear brake while trying to get it set. Lock tab, you got it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 217 Posted March 17, 2015 Be sure to check condition of the splines- wobbly sprockets eat splines. I use Honda moly paste on the splines, loctite on the nut/bolt. Btw- the oring will leak if the fastener is loose. You might not need a seal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kato 53 Posted March 17, 2015 to me blue loctite on splines keeps it all nice and extra snug to avoid hammering / spline wear. Paul has a good point about wobbly sprockets... inspect the shaft Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 331 Posted March 17, 2015 all good info above, additional-- make sure your chain is not too tight under suspension compression at its furthest in the suspension arc countershaft center to axle center distance. Or use the OEM setting chain tension procedure in the manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oracle 180 Posted March 17, 2015 The only thing I'll add is that it is not a difficult job. Once you have the seal kit, you can be back in business in less than an hour. There are some videos on youtube that will show you tricks on how to get the old seal out too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricko1320 0 Posted March 18, 2015 Are you sure thats not just flung off chain grease and lube? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bp619 96 Posted March 18, 2015 that's looks like a hell of a lot of grease especially since he said his nut was totally loose definitely needs little blue loctite and I always just use my 3/8 impact just hit it on and good to go with the washer wings folded Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 322 Posted March 18, 2015 @ricko1320 - I had some oil drips after test-riding my bike prior to baja. I thought it was spillage from my oil change but it was from the leaky countershaft seal. It only dropped a little bit and what the heck, the lil yammie made it home after 375 miles with it's steel frame still full of oil so I guess the leak isn't too bad. @wintyfresh - I "thought" I torqued it to something similar to that but I must have been mistaken. Damn, try as I might now, holding the rear brake engaged and yanking on the torque wrench, I'm really tightening down the countershaft nut and must be close but I haven't heard the torque wrench click over yet. The rear tire gives way before I can hit 54 pound-feet of torque. It is Definitely more tight now than before. I undertook some thorough bike cleaning and a re-torquring of the countershaft nut. On my next day off, I'll take the bike out for a spin to see if she still leaks (well, I'll take it for a spin once I install a new rear tube whaa whaa...). I'm going to order a Countershaft Seal Kit (~$15) just to be safe and who knows, maybe I'll get lucky and the bike was only leaking because the nut was loose and thus not applying enough pressure to "seal the seal".. I'll keep you all posted (expect an update this weekend) and seriously, Thank You SDAR for all of your tips/advice - awesome!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
350thumper 309 Posted March 18, 2015 OEM SEAL DEFINITLY. thats one component that i always use as oem . ALL BALLS seals pretty much suck. every time i have used them they either leak or dont fit. seals are so cheap that there is no arguing this point . as a tech i cant even warranty a non oem seal replacement . but with the oem seal i can easily warranty the work . to get the seal out just tap it with a small flat head screwdriver and then pop it out . sometimes you can use the old seal to punch in the new seal . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 322 Posted March 18, 2015 OEM Parts List and Diagram: Diagram# 24 Yamaha Part # 90387-22001-00 Part Name - COLLAR Cost - $17.46 Diagram # 25 Yamaha Part # 93102-28010-00 Part Name - OIL SEAL | INCL. IN BOTTOM END GASKET KIT Cost - $9.43 Diagram # 27 Yamaha Part # 90215-20003-00 Part Name - WASHER, LOCK Cost - $4.58 I believe all I would need is the Seal #25 and if I want to replace it, the Lock Washer #27. --> Can I reuse the Collar #24 or is it recommended to replace that too? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suspenders 43 Posted March 18, 2015 OEM SEAL DEFINITLY. thats one component that i always use as oem . ALL BALLS seals pretty much suck. every time i have used them they either leak or dont fit. seals are so cheap that there is no arguing this point . as a tech i cant even warranty a non oem seal replacement . but with the oem seal i can easily warranty the work . to get the seal out just tap it with a small flat head screwdriver and then pop it out . sometimes you can use the old seal to punch in the new seal . Spot on! Add any other aftermarket seal to the do not use list except SKF. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 322 Posted March 19, 2015 Bumpity bump. Hopefully ordering parts today or tomorrow. I'm going to buy a new OEM seal and lock washer/tab thingy. Is the collar reusable? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
350thumper 309 Posted March 20, 2015 sometimes the collar actualy wears from running on the seal but its rare that you have to replace it. but ive seen it happen . its obvious when its worn .sometimes you can flip the collar (180 it )so the seal rides on the collar where its not worn out . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodnettjj 0 Posted March 21, 2015 Torque it... lock the washer... done... No more leaky leaky... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 322 Posted March 27, 2015 Torque it... lock the washer... done... No more leaky leaky... Preliminary testing indicates that a simple re-torque may be all that was needed to re-seat the seal. I'll do another longer ride to confirm but it looks like the WR250f will be ready for some baja action next week! I'm going to order an OEM seal just in case this one starts leaking on me again. Thank You for all the comments, input and advice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 322 Posted April 10, 2015 Well after 357 baja miles the countershaft seal seems to have reset / sealed with the correct torque applied. I did order a new OEM seal and lock washer just in case and knock on wood I won't have to use it anytime soon. It even handled bboyle9's best attempts to bury it alive in some beach dunes (in front of some locals watching the action)! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
