Breaking in a new Engine - What's your method?

[Crawdaddy 96]

This whole new bike thing is "new" to me.......I'm a used bike guy........I don't have the new WR250R yet but I read somewhere that the factory recommendation on the WR250R is 1/3 throttle for ~600 miles and no more than 3/4 throttle for next 400 miles

The "Motoman approach" is dramatically different : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have no intention of abusing a new engine, by the same token I see no need to baby it unecessarily........especially if that "babying" is actually counter productive??........what say you?

[tlking6 0]

This whole new bike thing is "new" to me.......I'm a used bike guy........I don't have the new WR250R yet but I read somewhere that the factory recommendation on the WR250R is 1/3 throttle for ~600 miles and no more than 3/4 throttle for next 400 miles

The "Motoman approach" is dramatically different : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have no intention of abusing a new engine, by the same token I see no need to baby it unecessarily........especially if that "babying" is actually counter productive??........what say you?

I'm right there with ya Chris. My only new bike was my Husky and I just couldnt get behind taking it out and flogging it like Motoman but I did run it a little harder then then they recommended. Actually, there was no way I could keep it at half throttle. I just didnt redline it until she was good and broke in.

[Joliet 0]

I am one for keeping the RPMs low for the break-in. I am also a firm believer in seating the rings with some full throttle roll-ons in a higher gear. I use enough speed to not lug it then go full throttle up to about 3/4 of redline, close throttle back down to just above lugging speed and repeat a dozen times. Once the rings are seated the rest of the parts just need some time for break-in. I use dino-oil for break-in then switch to synthetic after 600 miles.

I feel it is important to change the oil frequently when new. I changed mine as soon as I got it home from the dealer (get rid of excess sealant, assembly lube, ect.).

I know guys that break in easy, and others that break in hard, they all feel that they are doing it properly. I haven't seen any pattern of shortened engine life with either method.

Will you have the new bike out at Superstition?

[Zenosan 2]

This whole new bike thing is "new" to me.......I'm a used bike guy........I don't have the new WR250R yet but I read somewhere that the factory recommendation on the WR250R is 1/3 throttle for ~600 miles and no more than 3/4 throttle for next 400 miles

The "Motoman approach" is dramatically different : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have no intention of abusing a new engine, by the same token I see no need to baby it unecessarily........especially if that "babying" is actually counter productive??........what say you?

I'm right there with ya Chris. My only new bike was my Husky and I just couldnt get behind taking it out and flogging it like Motoman but I did run it a little harder then then they recommended. Actually, there was no way I could keep it at half throttle. I just didnt redline it until she was good and broke in.

I have rebuilt many engines. No lugging, no high rpms, no fast accellerations, don't overload the bike or the engine. When cruising vary your speed frequently. Change the oil after the first 500 miles then again at 1000 miles. You don't need expensive oil for a breakin, you are not going to get it very hot driving this way.

[Spaugh 1]

assuming ring end gap is large enough so the ends don't touch when they expand from heat, you should be able to run it hard right off the bat. I don't think this is always the case and probably the reason manufacturer's tell you to take it easy on a new bike. keeping a load on the motor is key. Riding it around soft at a constant speed is NOT the way to get a good ring seal.

I just did a top end on the 300 last night. ring gap is good, I'm going heat cycle it a few times, ride it 20 miles saturday then race sunday fwiw.

[Crawdaddy 96]

Will you have the new bike out at Superstition?

The C-Daddy Fleet will be there - EXC/CRF/WRR

[Zenosan 2]

This whole new bike thing is "new" to me.......I'm a used bike guy........I don't have the new WR250R yet but I read somewhere that the factory recommendation on the WR250R is 1/3 throttle for ~600 miles and no more than 3/4 throttle for next 400 miles

The "Motoman approach" is dramatically different : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have no intention of abusing a new engine, by the same token I see no need to baby it unecessarily........especially if that "babying" is actually counter productive??........what say you?

I like the factory approach Chris. All rings will seat in time and you will not have the added stress on the other components. The only reason some people need to rush seating rings is when they just did a new top end and have to get the power of full compression ready for an upcomming race. You have plenty of time to do it right.

[Audible 0]

Just ride it...........with respect though.

[Strega 0]

I broke my WR in pretty hard. I changed the oil at 20 miles, at 50 miles, and 250 miles.

I change the oil in it after every major ride, or after a few shorter rides.

Had valves checked recently and they were spot on, no issues. Bike now runs like a top.

[TrophyHunter 15]

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html#BreakIn

Used this guys recommendations on the Strom. Changed oil like Strega.

I like his presentation of info on a lot of topics...pretty straight forward. Also have one of his windshields on the Strom....nice.

[darylhunter 1]

Per my email to Chris earlier, I do a number of part and full throttle runs (without lugging the engine) and then let the bike or car decellerate back down to idle speed each time.

I increase the upper end of the rpms over time and figure the bike's broken in after the first 200 miles or so.

The notable exception was my trials bike.

Put the bike together out of the crate and when I started it the first time, it went straight to max revvs even through I had the throttle closed.

I was pushing the kill button but it had no effect, shut off the fuel and pulled the plug wire and the bike died.

Probably ran that way for about 10 to 15 seconds.

Turns out there were two issues, one, the throttle cable wasn't seated all the way in the top of the carb and even though the throttle on the grip was closed, the carb was sitting at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.

The kill switch they'd supplied was only a single wire version and wasn't grounding through the painted handle bar.

I was worried for a while that I'd hurt the motor, but the thing seems to run just fine.

I have since heard about 2-stroke bikes dieseling and continuing to run wide open even with the kill switch pressed or plug wire removed. The remedy is to press your hand over the tailpipe to block the exhaust gas. This apparently kills the motor - hopefully before it granades.

I hope never to find out . . .

[Crawdaddy 96]

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html#BreakIn

Used this guys recommendations on the Strom. Changed oil like Strega.

I like his presentation of info on a lot of topics...pretty straight forward. Also have one of his windshields on the Strom....nice.

Visited that site before as a resource for the oil debate and also to get some Superhawk links.........the information on that website is what steered me towards using Rotella T in ALL my vehicles......the "how to check your new bike/how to break in your new bike" article seems well thought out and I think I'll adopt his approach......

[Bagstr 288]

My experience is that you "try" to keep the revs down for the first 500mi BUT, inevitably mistakes happen and a person gets "involved" in the ride. These mistakes take care of any need for the high rev break-in.

So, you got a new zero miles '08?

[hoss314 0]

I have also built quite a few motors.......I have always believed in changing the oil frequently such as Strega's practices above. But, as far as break in time I would never baby the motor......I also would not rev the piss out of it either. So ride it hard but just not as hard as you would after 500 miles or so.

Run what you brung and ride it as you would....

Don't forget....it's brand new, under warranty......wouldn't you rather find out if there is an issue early on before warranty expires?

[Crawdaddy 96]

So, you got a new zero miles '08?

Yep, decided I'm going to drive down and snag it it tomorrow after work.......I'll be buzzing around Ramona in the dark tomorrow night hitting it with varying RPMS/cooling cycles......change the oil after ~20 miles.......then ride it into work on Friday taking all back roads/varying throttle/engine breaking.......change the oil again.......then the farkling begins on Sat morning......Kathy doesn't know it, but I have a few boxes showing up at the house .......just like a kid on Christmas day with his new stingray

Stuff showing up at the house:

Skid plate

Radiator guard

Hand guards

Hand guard mirrors

Rear disc guard

Front disc guard

12T counter sprocket

AIS removal kit

Speedo healer

Rear rack

Tail bag

Speed bleeders for forks

GPS hardwire

Heated grips

Seal savers

Minor “bling”

Tires - 606 rear / Scorpion front

Yet to come in months ahead

FI Programmer

Pipe

Fat handlebar (waiting on this – GPR will be ready to release new underbar stabilizer for WR250R within next month or so.....don't want to buy risers that will be replaced )

1 gallon rotopax can to mount on the rear rack (when needed)

[KLXBEN 0]

When I bought my Banshee new I asked about break in and he told me just to get out there and ride it like I would any other bike just change the oil after every trip for the first season. Now I change the oil every season and the bike is solid, quicker, and more fuel efficient.... But when I bought a new TRX450R

they wanted a very specific break procedure that limited throttle opening and engine speeds for the first like 8 hours of riding. The new CRF230 also required no specific break in or the new TRX400. Hope this helps. ( I know that quads barely count but I did mention the CRF230!)

[KLXBEN 0]

"I have since heard about 2-stroke bikes dieseling and continuing to run wide open even with the kill switch pressed or plug wire removed."

I had that happen to a kids Suzuki 50 motorcycle 2 stroke. I pulled the wire off and it still ran wide open. The bike was in gear and going wild doing do-nuts on the ground. The kid was lucky to get away. I ended up picking it up and slamming the rear wheel into the dirt. That killed it! Luckily not forever. It still ran fine later.

[Badfish2 0]

3 proper heat cycles then ride.

[jbw 0]

When I got the new BB for the DRZ I let it warm up completely then took it out to properly seat the rings. This meant part throttle and full throttle runs(not to redline though) then let it engine brake. Not lugging it during any of this.

Changed the oil after 20 miles, then ~100 miles then ~250...

Seems to be running strong now but then that could just be the larger bore

[akcooper9 0]

Here is how I broke in my 08 (after I fully tore it apart, greased and uncorked it)

On the first start, I let it warm up for about 15-30 seconds...took off down the road ALWAYS making sure there was a LOAD on the motor (dont lug it)...make sure to get in some good compression breaking. Do this for about 5 miles then park it until the bike is cold.

On second start, I did the same thing but harder (3/4 throttle) and go through the gears...heck go to the top of gun stage and let the bike compression break all the way down. Put about 10 miles on it

After that, I changed the oil and the rest is history...ride it like you stole it.

All you you are really trying to do is make sure you seat the rings (which is important) everything else like the tranny gears will "wear-in" with time

[Zenosan 2]

Chris

I am sure you haven't heard anything you didn't already know on this thread. Looks like you were just trolling for any new ideas that might be out there.

The one thing that is always worth remembering however is that factory engineers have the luxury of trying out all these scenarios on new engines then tearing them down to see what were the effects of each method. They know their engines pretty well. When I was attending the McColluch factory school for outboards in the 60's they took us through their test labs. They showed us how they found out just what were the limits and effects of what any owner could do, like red lining the engine just to see at what rpms the flywheel would shatter or what spark advance would start to melt the pistons or what oil fuel ratio would cause the pistons to scour etc. You will not go wrong following their procedures.

Enjoy your new toy.

Don

[Crawdaddy 96]

......heck go to the top of gun stage and let the bike compression break all the way down. Put about 10 miles on it......

That's the plan.....a few runs on Gun Stage tonight along with an oil change ......then a fun run down Highland Valley and across Elfin forrest on the way into work tomorrow morning

[akcooper9 0]

That's the plan.....a few runs on Gun Stage tonight along with an oil change

You know what they say, great minds think a like

[2Wheels 0]

Here's a summarized airplane-engine break in procedure from Teledyne Continental.

• Conduct a normal take-off with full power, full rich (mixture)
  
• 75% power for the first hour of operation.
  
• The second hour power settings should alternate between 65% and 75% power
  
• Avoid high-RPM, low-power settings. (I'm paraphrasing here.)
  

Link: http://www.tcmlink.com/visitors/carenfeed/brkin.pdf

If you're breaking in an engine, it's worth reading. They talk about seating the rings and have a nice diagram.

Keep in mind that airplane engines have lower compression ratios than liquid-cooled motorcycle engines.

[Jaynen 0]

I did the modified motoman method on mine, no wide open throttle but loaded runs up and down no constant RPM and a lot of early oil changes