Baja2015 0 Posted February 4, 2013 Any ideas! I have a few. Chain tension bolt snapped on the last ride. Vice grips not cuttin it :wacko:/> Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TrophyHunter 15 Posted February 4, 2013 http://www.brokenbolt.com/blog/tag/broken-ez-out/ http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html I have a set similar to THIS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CalNub 0 Posted February 4, 2013 a reverse threaded drill bit should work when combined with penetrating spray. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 561 Posted February 4, 2013 I had the same thing happen on my TE. Unfortunately, the bolt ended up snapping off flush with the surface of the swingarm, even after I used a penetrating oil and a torch to try to get the fastener unstuck enough to turn out. I had to drill out the center of the bolt with a drill on an extention, then get the last little shell of it out with an easy out, then use an insert kit, drill and tap it, and install the insert. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PastaPilot 17 Posted February 4, 2013 Thanks for the reminder. I'm going to go out to the garage and put anti-seize on my adjuster bolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
recycled 0 Posted February 4, 2013 Many times, if there is a stub left like you had, you can get two thinner nuts(or make a custom one with a hacksaw or dremel from a spare) and tighten as jam nuts and simply turn it out with some lubricant. Key is try that method first while the threads are in good shape. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Afry 1 Posted February 4, 2013 The never would happened in the old days, we adjusted chain tension between moto's! Most worked bolts on the bike......just sayin....we had shitty chains without o'rings Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baja2015 0 Posted February 4, 2013 Thanks for all the replys, great info, and great community here. Will report back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baja2015 0 Posted February 4, 2013 Many times, if there is a stub left like you had, you can get two thinner nuts(or make a custom one with a hacksaw or dremel from a spare) and tighten as jam nuts and simply turn it out with some lubricant. Key is try that method first while the threads are in good shape. Great idea but too late! Threds flatend Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kris 0 Posted February 4, 2013 What I used to do on outboard motors if you had a little nub was tig weld a nut to the broken bolt. We had a lot of broken bolts from salt water corrosion.You dont need a very big nub to do this either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SICVIC 0 Posted February 4, 2013 Start with the basics before you move up to the welding, drilling, extracting methods. 1. Penetrating lubricant. Apply several times and let sit. 2. Give the end of that bolt a good wack! If you can apply pressure with those vise grips and hit the end of that bolt at the same time; even better. Don't be afraid to turn it in the tightening direction either. Free is free. 3. HEAT Not a toarch unless you're super carefull. A heat gun works really well and allows more room for error. Lube, shock, heat, repeat Stuff like this ya always want to start with the lesser and work up from there. Oh, allow yourself plenty of time to work on it as well. Going in with only 10 minutes to spare will most times result in something completely F'ed. Beastie Boys wrote a song for this....Some of the words were "slow and low that is the tempo" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted February 4, 2013 What I used to do on outboard motors if you had a little nub was tig weld a nut to the broken bolt. We had a lot of broken bolts from salt water corrosion.You dont need a very big nub to do this either. This is true, and what I'd do with it. But. The bolt is still frozen in the swingarm. My understanding is the bolt strips out (not the head of the bolt- the threads) in the swingarm. I don't have a solution, but do suggest everyone remove, clean and put anti-seize on the bolts with every tire change. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted February 5, 2013 may be too late now but you might be able to put 2 thin nuts on the bolt and wrench on the inner nut until it hits the outer nut and starts loosening the bolt. this is how to insert or extract pure threaded studs without a wrench point. when all else fails get out the acetone/ATF mix? (homebrew pb blaster) and a BFH and the torch. edit: just realized this is what recycled suggested. sorry, plan B. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
996Pilot 0 Posted February 5, 2013 We used to get steel bolts frozen into aluminum whatever on aircraft all the time. On aircraft, it's get it out intact or scrap the host part - no helicoils, inserts or anything like that allowed. After using PB Blaster, we would carefully tap on the part (doesn't need to hard, just a gentle tap) for a looong time. Tapping with a brass hammer (or similar) while spraying PB Blaster, the ultra-thin penetrating oil would slowly work its way into the gaps between the threaded parts. It takes alot of time and patience but it works (sometimes a bit of heat helps). As others have recommended, when reinstalling -- USE ANTI-SEIZE. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HVYWT 3 Posted February 5, 2013 My 2 cents make it nickels worth. Put the nut on mig weld the end let cool a bit penetrating fluid again tighten to let threads drop the crap from bolt and nut/threads loosen , tighten, loosen back and forth factions at first. The bolt holds heat longer than the arm so if you have to heat the arm will cool fast. Heat makes things bigger. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baja2015 0 Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks again to all for the great info. SDAR rocks!! Put about 4 hours in today and still no love. 6 rounded wrenches , broken screwdriver, broken spoke wrench, dremal wheels beat up hands :angry2:/> What a pain in the ass!!! :angry2:/> Ive tried almost every method mentioned above, besides welding a nut on and thin finally drill and tap. My next approach will be to prop the rear end of the bike up somehow and soak the bolt for a few days with PB. I have also grinded two side of the bolt flat. I trying to fab a steel tool or socket to slide over and wrench it off. I think the weld would work best but I don't got one. Anyways I will keep tryin sumthing got to give <_</> Brando Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HVYWT 3 Posted February 5, 2013 If you don't have welder put nut on drill threw the nut and bolt small tight pin. A small pipe wrench tightens the harder you pull if you can get the jaw in there. Stud removers 1st chorce Harbor Frieght kit of 4 20bucks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Covered in Dust 163 Posted February 5, 2013 A little heat should work, just be careful to not use to much on the aluminum. CiD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted February 5, 2013 lots of used swingarms for sale on ktm talk for under 100$. You could probably swap out that one, get the bolt and and resale it later and keep your sanity now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baja2015 0 Posted February 6, 2013 Getting Creative today!! Submerged!!!!! Let the soak begin. If no love by friday thin off to the welder to weld a nut on. Wow I don't like defeat. :ph34r:/> Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baja2015 0 Posted February 11, 2013 Well still no luck after the soak in PB cocktail. The next step was to weld a nut on. So We did and snapped off the nut three different times. All the welder kept telling me was "Man that thing is stuck" I know!! So Im pissed. Think it's time to go ride the Honda. :party:/> I'm ripping that swing arm off and will drill and tap that thing next. Or just replace with a used swingarm. A couple things that I have found out. After looking at the pics when I purchased the bike I noticed the bolt was broken when I bought it !! I didn't see it :dead:/> The next thing was that when I removed the swing arm and was taking the hardware off WATER came pouring out the holes.!! thus a Seeeeeezed chain bolt. Good to know water creeps!! Aaaaaaahhhhh!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Crusty Posted February 11, 2013 Time to hit Pala Raceway on the CRF. 450X's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HVYWT 3 Posted February 11, 2013 Looking at pics the nut looked like it didn't thread on just slipped over or was that just the way it looked ? After going through all that, if I was doing it, I would take it "Personal". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted February 11, 2013 they started putting drain holes in the bottom of the swing arms at some point because of this. some people drill a small hole near that seized bolt for drainage on the old bikes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kato 53 Posted February 11, 2013 Damn. Maybe do that drainage hole and use it to soak the other side of the bolt with pb for a while. Then welded nut again.. Also someone mentionned heat, that does work well on seized bolts good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites