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Anyone Ever See or Use These Tubeless High Pressure Rim Lock-Seals?

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Got this link from a friend......I've never seen one, wonder if anyone out there knows someone who has used them or has tried them........

LINK here

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Off-road only, so no dual sport.

Something about the heat of the road.

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Fakey, yeah........Installation Instructions say.......

THIS PRODUCT IS FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY

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Perhaps because they don't want people running with low pressure over long distances and at highway speeds.

I'd think that the sidewall temps would get high and lead to a tire failure.

But if you're inflated to a normal DS tire pressure, then I'd think you'd be OK.

I run my tubless rear trails at 3.5 to 4 PSI. It helps to have a special low pressure gauge at those pressures - mine tops out a 5 PSI.

The traction the tires get is amazing. Not sure how much is due to the low pressure and how much is due to the soft rubber, tread pattern, and siping.

The construction of the rim and tire is different though, there's no inner bladder. Just the grove in the rim itself.

Seems like a good idea though and I'd consider one of these new critters for my Husky.

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This discussion came up on our forum in November 2007. Back then they only offered 1 size. I will look into it again.

Does anyone know about rimlocks with these things or is the system 1 giant rimlock.

I run 2 rimlocks on my CR 500 with a 10 cup paddle and the same on my KTM 690.

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This discussion came up on our forum in November 2007. Back then they only offered 1 size. I will look into it again.

Does anyone know about rimlocks with these things or is the system 1 giant rimlock.

I run 2 rimlocks on my CR 500 with a 10 cup paddle and the same on my KTM 690.

They come with their own rimlock and that is all you need. You take your old rimlocks out.

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I am running one in the rear of my Husky now and will have one in the front as soon as I get a new front tire. I have 160 miles on the rear so far with no issues but 160 miles is not much of a test.

My observations so far..

Installation - If you follow the instructions (meaning READ THEM) then the installation was no harder than a normal tube/tire setup.

Riding on the street - since the system has two air valves (a low pressure air valve / rim lock to put air in the tire itself and the high pressure air valve which inflates the tube inside the tubeliss insert and are both located on the same side of the rim it creates an unbalanced condition. This obviously can be addressed but I have not done so yet.

Riding in the dirt - The system allows you to run VERY low air pressure (down to 5psi I think). This is taking some time to get used to since I have been running between 15 and 20 pounds for the last 10 years.

Again I only have one ride on mine so time will tell how the system works.

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AFAIK

These are fine to run on the street at least I know a few people who have been doing it even on supermoto bikes from what I have read. Now don't take that as the gospel but I believe the company just does not want to pay for the hassle of the approval process needed to be DOT legal more than its a case of the product not being safe but I don't know. I was seriously considering it for a while but just didnt get around to it

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got one on my bike and have put precisely 2345 miles of dual sport use on it without one single problem other than instant traction on pavement due to low psi in the rear tire :rolleyes: this is with the maxis desert it on the rear the whole time. I could see the knarly rimlock eating away a lesser tire on the pavement though.

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After just reading, with no practical experience......

A. First inflate the Inner-bladder through the gold 8mm valve stem to 110 PSI. This will seat the tires bead.

B. Second inflate the tire to 15psi through the rim lock valve. If the bead is not seating fully on the rim, it may be necessary to add air into the tire also and bounce the wheel in order to help it seat. If this doesn’t work, deflate your tire and TUbliss, re-lube the bead with soapy water, and re-inflate.

Failure to have a minimum of 100PSI in the inner liner may result in leaking or a flat tire.

Re: Tire punctures... After the hole is located it can be fixed with TUBELESS TYPE “tire rope plugs” or with the use of a TUBELESS tire sealant like SLIME.

My only concern is making sure you SLIME your tires or carry some on the trail (or plugs). Dismounting a tire on the trail and gluing a patch inside seems impossible as having 115 PSI avail to inflate the liner during remount.....well...

Being a trained pessimist, I'd still carry tubes in case the liner got punctured/leaked. :rolleyes:

Very cool idea & with over 2300 miles on the SDAR test bike, something to think about.

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If anybody wants one I have them. Retail for $99.95

tubliss-sm.jpg

And this to. Retail for $92.00

tirestand-150.jpg

I can go 20% off on either of these. PM me.

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seems impossible as having 115 PSI avail to inflate the liner during remount.....well...

Actually, I carry a CrankBros two-stage little tire pump that is designed for high volume or high pressure bicycle tires. It will take some pumping, but 115 is doable.

ultra.jpg

I've emailed the company to see if they can be used on a "1000 mile dirt/street closed course" in an attempt to determine their usability on the street. I suspect the'd be just fine, but not at 8 or 10 lbs in the tire.

The other thing- I'd then have to mount and balance my own tires again.

Probably should be anyway.

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It will take some pumping, but 115 is doable.

Very nice! Two stage, ya say? Good to know. Learn sumpin new every day.

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I also carry a small bicycle pump that is capable of 110psi. That said I agree with Trophy and will be stashing a 21" tube somewhere on my bike just in case there is an issue with one of the tubeliss systems.

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Kelly what is that second thing a tire changing stand?

Something that doesn't come up much on dirt bikes is unsprung mass but this setup is supposed to shave a lot of weight over heavy duty tubes and stuff etc, removing 1lb of unsprung weight is the equivalent of taking 15lbs off other parts of a car at least that's the number I recall. So if you want your bike to "feel" like its 30lbs lighter this would be a good way to go :)

Hobiee did you notice any of this when you switched to it?

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Kelly what is that second thing a tire changing stand?

Something that doesn't come up much on dirt bikes is unsprung mass but this setup is supposed to shave a lot of weight over heavy duty tubes and stuff etc, removing 1lb of unsprung weight is the equivalent of taking 15lbs off other parts of a car at least that's the number I recall. So if you want your bike to "feel" like its 30lbs lighter this would be a good way to go :)

Hobiee did you notice any of this when you switched to it?

I did notice it quite a bit. I don't know if its always beneficial however. The rear tire spins alot more i feel and forces you to use the clutch alot more which is not a bad thing but its different for sure. I definitely improved my milage however i want to say 3-5 mpg better which showed itself pretty quickly. It definitely helped on this ride for the ice and snow sections as i was running 5 psi in the rear i tracked really well throughout the entire trip. it eats rocks for lunch at that psi as well. i had to tweak the boingers to get the feel back due to this change as well but thats just a personal preference i think. I think javi will be getting those here pretty quickly to give me the magic carpet ride i really want :)

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I carry tire plugs and the little poker so that I can repair my tubeless tire on the rear of the trials bike.

There's no way you can break the bead on a tubless tire in the field, so the plug (or slime) would be the only way of effecting a repair. Patching from the inside is not an option.

Seems like you could do it with a regular rim that's using this device, but using the tire plug is pretty easy so I'd consider the patch on the inside a last resort.

I run slime in all my tubes, but never thought about running it in my tubeless tire. I've never had a flat while running slime (knock on wood). Don't know if its the slime or the heavy duty tubes, or just luck.

In addition to the CO2 cartrages I also carry a bicycle pump from my mountain bike, weighs next to nothing and is capable of pretty high pressure.

Turned out to be pretty handy in helping one of my friends who had a flat on a tubed tire on a ride. He used up one CO2 cartrage when his inflater device malfunctioned, then I used one cartrage and my device to get the tire inflated to an OK pressure, but not enough to get the tire evenly seated on the rim. The hand pump quickly brought the tire pressure up quite high. Not sure how high, but it was rock hard, way higher than you'd want to ride with, but it did get the tire seated on the rim.

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So for those of you running the Tubeliss system how is the system holding up and are you guys still happy with it?

After changing a pinch flat in 90+ degree heat yesterday, I'm considering putting a Tubeliss in at least the rear tire.

Is running slime in the tire and then patching from the outside, like a street tire, where needed the way to go? What happens if you somehow slash the tire and can't patch it? With a tube you can replace the tube and still get home, but what's the fix with the Tubeliss?

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I have used the system, but it's not currently installed. The company owner is a great guy, and he's working hard to get the system figured out and foolproof. Craig, if you'd like to see the system I have it here- just shoot me a pm.

I know there is another member here who's very pleased with the system.

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I'm considering putting Tubliss on the front of the 620, the Moose inserts seem really expensive.

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I am very pleased with the system and have not had a flat in over 2500 miles so far. I ran 5-6 lbs in an mt43 for the primm ride and it was awesome, even in our favorite gravel section. Don't know about fixing a flat on the trail cause i have not had one!

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I have the system installed and have been very pleased. If you run the slime tire (not tube) sealant in it you will most likely prevent most puncture flats. If hole is to big you can plug. For a larger tear you could remove tire and use a large rubber patch. If all else fails you use big zip ties and zip tie the wheel to the rim. This would only be needed if you had a failure of the inner high pressure tube. As long as the inner high pressure tube is good you can essentially just run it flat as it will keep the side walls of the tire stiff.

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I am still VERY happy with mine. I have even done a full day at the Supermoto track on them with no issues.

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