Why did my wheel bearings go bad so fast?

[paulmbowers 236]

I replaced my rear wheel bearings, seals, and spacers at my last tire change. But now they're all ballsy again, and there are grooves in the spacers where the seal rides.

I've ordered the all-balls kit which uses steel, (not aluminum) spacers to avoid the seal wear issue, but why did the bearings quit so soon? They don't seem to be contaminated, I popped the bearing seals and added waterproof grease when installed, I didn't hammer on the inner races to press them in.

Anyone with insight?

thanks.

p

[SDlineman 0]

There's some kind of smart-ass response that needs to be inserted here, just can't quite formulate it. Somebody help me out. After we get the important stuff done then, and only then can we help.

[Zenosan 2]

There's some kind of smart-ass response that needs to be inserted here, just can't quite formulate it. Somebody help me out. After we get the important stuff done then, and only then can we help.

Sounds like Fakey has a "BALLSEY" problem.

Did you get them wet anytime in the recent past? Rust is a killer.

[paulmbowers 236]

Well, of course they got wet. But they are designed to do so.

Hoping to hear from AAKTM about this- Brent? Anyone?

[dirt dame 561]

Maybe the AllBalls isn't made of the best quality steel.

[paulmbowers 236]

Hmm- probably not clear. The kit I used that is now prematurely worn out is KTM OEM. I'll replace it with the allballs.

[SDlineman 0]

I don't really know about bike repair enough, but the only car wheel bearing I ever saw go bad was because the owner didn't know how to pack them properly. How did you grease them? Did you get grease to the inside race? You can do it by hand if you you know how, but I like using a tool that shoves lots of grease into the bearing. Again, I am only going on what I know (cars, trailers. etc.) so it may not be the same.

* Edit- know anyone that's good with a camera? Pics may help w/ the diagnosis. *

[Joliet 0]

Just a thought, some grease is not at all compatible with other greases. If you greased the bearings without removing the bearings and cleaning all the old grease out, it is often way worse than not adding new grease at all. Ken

[paulmbowers 236]

I don't really know about bike repair enough, but the only car wheel bearing I ever saw go bad was because the owner didn't know how to pack them properly. How did you grease them? Did you get grease to the inside race? You can do it by hand if you you know how, but I like using a tool that shoves lots of grease into the bearing. Again, I am only going on what I know (cars, trailers. etc.) so it may not be the same.

* Edit- know anyone that's good with a camera? Pics may help w/ the diagnosis. *

These are "sealed" bearings that are not like the roller bearings in cars. Greased enough of those, too, both with a grease press and by hand, scraping the bearing across the palm of my hands to force the grease into the rollers. Old school.

[zracing 0]

One of the most common reasons for blown rear wheel bearings is a chain that is too tight.

[paulmbowers 236]

Yeah, not guilty on that one.

I always err on the loose side.

I'm wondering if perhaps they were not seated in the boss properly and had undue side pressure when I tightened the axle. Maybe?

[paulmbowers 236]

I'm wondering if perhaps they were not seated in the boss properly and had undue side pressure when I tightened the axle. Maybe?

Nope. And not just because your a brilliant guy, FN. If the bearings weren't seated, you wouldn't be able to install the circlip.

[paulmbowers 236]

I'm wondering if perhaps they were not seated in the boss properly and had undue side pressure when I tightened the axle. Maybe?

Nope. And not just because your a brilliant guy, FN. If the bearings weren't seated, you wouldn't be able to install the circlip.

Good point, thanks.

[TrophyHunter 15]

I'm wondering if perhaps they were not seated in the boss properly and had undue side pressure when I tightened the axle. Maybe?

Nope. And not just because your a brilliant guy, FN. If the bearings weren't seated, you wouldn't be able to install the circlip.

Good point, thanks.

Don't know much about bearings, but you may be losing yours........WTH?

[blind_in_1_ear 0]

I'm wondering if perhaps they were not seated in the boss properly and had undue side pressure when I tightened the axle. Maybe?

Nope. And not just because your a brilliant guy, FN. If the bearings weren't seated, you wouldn't be able to install the circlip.

Good point, thanks.

well put you three...well put indeed.

[bikeslut 1]

warped hubs?

[BC330 0]

OK... First thing is first. When installing the new bearings you need to put the new parts in the freezer for 30 min. This will make them smaller. They will basicly fall into the hub with hardly any effort. But you need to have the hub ready, and clean of any debris, sometimes we even use a little heat on the hub right before we bring the "balls" out of the freezer and install them. This process will enable you to install your parts without the use of a hammer

Also, if your spacers are wearing grooves, then that tells me you need to inspect, and clean the seals more often. The other way they will wear is due to inpropper installation of the bearings, and or a chain that was too tight, which you have already rulled out. I hope this helps, PM me if you find another issue, or need any other parts!

BC

[lemieuxmc@yahoo.com 0]

I don't know about that particular bike but is there an internal spacer that is too short or missing? Those bearing should last a really long time if they are greased and don't get rusty. On the chain thing I'm sure you know that you have to check it when the sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear axle line up. I'm always amazed at how much slack modern bikes have at full extension.

[paulmbowers 236]

Thanks to both!

Yes, I freeze the bearings- with a little grease around the hub, they just need a little tap with a large socket on the outside races only. Seals press-fit by hand. And yes, there is a spacer in between them that lines up the inner races and the outer spacers that have the sealing surface. A little grease on those surfaces as well so the rubber does not abrade.

We'll see. But the big new Motoz Enduro looks a lot better than the worn out old one.

p

[BC330 0]

After freezing, the bearings should just fall into place, but if they have more than 30-45 sec. of warm up time, they may need a little nudge. If you have to use more force than that, re-freeze them, and at the time you are ready to install get a mapp gas( oh yah not avail. anymore) or propane tourch, heat the hub up slightly around the hub(only where the bearing sits) :heat: and right-a-way install your frozen bearing. This will make sure the thing goes all the way in.

Have fun, see ya on the trail

BC

[tntmo 911]

mapp gas( oh yah not avail. anymore)

Hijack - You can't get mapp gas anymore? - Hijack

Your wheel bearings went out so fast because you didn't go riding enough. It's your bikes way of telling you to ride with your SDAR pals more. Now get it fixed and get riding!

[paulmbowers 236]

You, CornStar, have an excellent point.

[dirt dame 561]

If your wheel bearings go bad too fast again, maybe they are just hanging around with the wrong crowd.

[PbdBlue 46]

If your wheel bearings go bad too fast again, maybe they are just hanging around with the wrong crowd.

Let me guess? Drive side rear wheel bearing? Common failure on the EXC's. It happened to a guy with a 530 last year when I rode Mex2Can. Jerry (promoter) said it's happened several times in years past. Don't know why but obviously something to keep a watch on.

[BC330 0]

Hijack - You can't get mapp gas anymore? - Hijack

Hijack-reply- No, now it is called MAP! They did somthing to make the bastards at CARB happy. Gotta love it!

Hijack out!

BC