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Bagstr

Dear 450 XCW Motor - I am Sorry to have been so hard on you.

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12 minutes ago, Bagstr said:

Full Rebuild cost ( splitting the cases ).  $3500 - $4500 depending on condition of gear-sets etc. That is the time to seriously think about selling machine and starting over. 

Yikes!

I was thinking about that yesterday (you know, while riding 100 miles in the desert) and I'm not sure I agree with you. The latest I've been reading about the latest bikes- fueling/tuning issues- for me, I'm not seeing any advantage to getting a later model bike.

What might I be overlooking?

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5 hours ago, paulmbowers said:

 

Well, other than the melted piston smearing itself on the cylinder.

"Inspect crank and bearings"- what exactly did they do there? They didn't split the cases, right?

Usually they can measure the axial play in the rod without splitting the cases. Crank bearings they probably just checked the "feel" during rotation and checked for any play.

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Running the Bike around the mountain, It Feels like there is plenty of Play available in the 450.

    👀

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7 hours ago, Bagstr said:

No, did not split the cases. No idea of the details of inspection. " They were good."

Don't think I mentioned the conversation regarding Full Rebuild cost ( splitting the cases ).  $3500 - $4500 depending on condition of gear-sets etc. That is the time to seriously think about selling machine and starting over. 

Shhhhhhh, I think that I must have received a Paradise discount...SD Powerhouse went into the bottom end on mine, even replaced the complete crank assembly. All bearings replaced... a list of big ticket items... top through bottom; and I picked up the bike with $2800.00. Did you stay in the shop while they were working on your bike? I hear that the shop rate goes up if one does that.

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So bottom line is ride it for a few years then some summer freshen up the top end with a new piston ,rings , stem seals, and your good to go. Gee I can even do that myself.

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21 hours ago, paulmbowers said:

Yikes!

I was thinking about that yesterday (you know, while riding 100 miles in the desert) and I'm not sure I agree with you. The latest I've been reading about the latest bikes- fueling/tuning issues- for me, I'm not seeing any advantage to getting a later model bike.

What might I be overlooking?

Yep. That and a lot of my buddies with the new bikes are not too keen on the Xplore forks. I'm in the same mindset. Going to keep my '14 going as long as feasable. 

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9 hours ago, kkug said:

So bottom line is ride it for a few years then some summer freshen up the top end with a new piston ,rings , stem seals, and your good to go. Gee I can even do that myself.

    Yep, That would be a safe choice.   Others have made them last longer.  How far from the pavement you ride may enter into the decision.

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1 hour ago, Bagstr said:

  How far from the pavement you ride may enter into the decision.

Interesting point- I had a conversation with another engine builder this week- Allen Fox at Allen Fox Engine Works who may end up doing mine. He suggested the catastrophic piston smear is pretty rare- most failures are far more gradual.

Does it start well?
Make good power?

Ok, then, keep riding it.

I agree the failure in BFE is my worst scenario- and I've had that happen. There are pics around of me riding a KLR for my sins. 

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Air Box Oil

Now I am questioning if I ignored oil dripping out of the air filter box. A bit of a mess down to the kick stand spring. I wrote it off to excess No-Toil oil. And the intake tunnel was not “dry”.

It is possible I had a warning that I did not recognize .

The motor started instantly and idled . I think that is result of good valves.

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23 hours ago, Bagstr said:

Air Box Oil

Now I am questioning if I ignored oil dripping out of the air filter box. A bit of a mess down to the kick stand spring. I wrote it off to excess No-Toil oil. And the intake tunnel was not “dry”.

It is possible I had a warning that I did not recognize .

The motor started instantly and idled . I think that is result of good valves.

Mmmm Bags that is a good posibilty-- something to keep a eye out for . 

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On 10/19/2019 at 2:00 PM, Bagstr said:

Air Box Oil

Now I am questioning if I ignored oil dripping out of the air filter box. A bit of a mess down to the kick stand spring. I wrote it off to excess No-Toil oil. And the intake tunnel was not “dry”.

It is possible I had a warning that I did not recognize .

The motor started instantly and idled . I think that is result of good valves.

I have noticed A little oil in the bottom of the air filter boot when doing maintenance. Hmmm

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To Wrap Up this discussion ( attempt )  :

Ask Mr. Piston -     We had such a good relationship, Why did you break-up?

A. We had been together too long, I just wore down.

B. That gas you fed me, made me throw-up

C. I left you notes, in the form of oil in the intake tube, You chose not to read them.

 

Remember that Tim Dunaway told me the piston would have passed inspection one hour before failure 

The gas was probably 3 months old.  What an idiot.  I now own a bottle of Sta-bil

The motor oil in the air filter box was definitely there at the failure. Subsequent Leak Down was Zero pressure. The top of the piston and the valves were very clean, so I am somewhat doubtful that the motor was really pushing oil into the intake before failure. I will definitely be checking this going forward.

Thanks to you all for your contributions to this discussion.  I am planning on the following the advice of a trusted public servant and " Getting Over It".

P.S. copying this last comment to the first post in hope that it may save someone reading all this. 

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