Steering Stem Bearing Tension

[Goofy Footer 539]

Does anybody have experience with setting the proper tension on your steering stem bearings?

When I got my bike they had just installed new steering head bearings. I rode it as is for a while and always thought it was a bit squirrely but that was simply the bike and/or front tire/suspension etc. I recently had my valves checked and the mechanic noted that my bearings were quite loose. He noted that they can "seat" post install and need to be readjusted. This was confirmed via a SDAR member this weekend. People often jump to buying a steering stabilizer / dampner and even new offset triple clamps but I never hear much about steering head bearings let alone their proper torque settings.

Researching stem torque, I found some articles noting that racers could adjust their steering stem bearings per moto (ie more rutty the second moto and thus more torque for less flickability). Maybe stem torque is a personal preference, what gives?

I was having a heck of a a time in the Anza Borrego sand washes this past night ride on this bike compared to my DRZ. I haven't run a stabilizer on the DRZ bike in years. George at Suspension 101 rebuilt my suspension so I assume he adjusted the steering stem bearings last. My new bike needs adjustment, how much tension should I torque?

Thanks in advance!

I just ordered a Tusk Steering Stem Wrench and Spanner Wrench which should arrive Wednesday.

[kato 54]

Yea they need adjustment every now and then. The way i do mine: with front end lifted (wheel on) i push the bars from one side to the other gently with on finger, i set it so it goes side to side (bumper to bumper) with just minimal push (one finger gently) but not on its on weight.

To me if it comes down to the bumpers on its own weight, or worse yet bouncing on bumpers, its too loose.

Do this carefully, dont overtight or you ll kill the bearing and/or race, and it could be dangerous.

Its an important adjustment but i dont think it ll make a huge difference in the wash

[Sneeker 29]

Sometime ago, when switching out forks on my xr250 I was puzzled by this question. My research led me to a torque setting of 3-5 lbs. I have no torque wrench that can measure down to that tolerance reliably. I settled for hand tight, hard as I could grip, then 1/3 turn with a wrench past that. X,000 miles later no problems. Your mileage may vary.

I've heard the hillbilly steering stabilizer method is to wrench down hard on the steering stem nut until the desired steering resistance is achieved. Not a best practice method as catastrophic failure is a likely outcome.

[tntmo 912]

I've always done steering stem bearings by feel, pretty much as Kato said. Tighten them down slowly as you move the forks side to side until you feel slight resistance. Sort of the same way that you feel the resistance on a feeler gauge on a valve clearance check.

Mechanics develop that built-in torque wrench in their elbow after a while.

[Wintyfresh 46]

I've already read torque them to 25 ft/lbs, then back them off and torque them to 5. Not having a torque wrench that fits the nut I try my best to estimate, then see how much resistance the bars have turning side-to-side. The very first time I didn't torque it down enough and immediately felt slop in the steering head on braking.

[PbdBlue 46]

I always do it by feel also. After I set it I grab the front forks (bike on stand) and check that there's no slop.

[Bagstr 288]

Remember to Loosen the top clamp before adjusting. I doubt George would have checked the steering stem while adjusting the suspension,,,unless he was just being a sweetheart.

[paulmbowers 236]

How I do it:

Grab a handful of front brake and, sitting on the bike, rock the bike fore and aft. Loosen the nut and feel for the click-slop in the headset. Gradually tighten it until it goes away. Further tightening will mean accelerated wear. I find it's a lot like setting wheel bearings on a car- there's just a little friction zone- firm, but not tight.

Like car wheel bearings, instructions will often tell you to over-torque it first to be sure the bearings and seats are aligned and seated properly.

[Goofy Footer 539]

Excellent info, thank you! I like the hillbilly stabilizer ha.

When you guys set the tension, is this before or after tightening the top clamp steering nut / t-nut??

(30mm or 32mm nut on Japanese bikes, KTM is a different setup. Note the pic I posted with the closed wrench)

I'd imagine torquing this nut will Increase total tension on the steering stem bearings.

[kato 54]

When you guys set the tension, is this before or after tightening the top clamp steering nut / t-nut

It goes like this; loosen top fork clamp (as Bags said dont forget that), Loosen top nut, set steering torque, re-tighten top nut, check steering. repeat last 4 steps if you re not satisfy. If its all good retorque fork (maybe a good time to do a fork alignment)

[Goofy Footer 539]

I'm going to crack into this over the weekend. Here is a good article (with pics) on regreasing the steering stem bearings.

If I were to replace the steering stem bearings what do you guys recommend?

- OEM stock replacement

- Pivot Works

- All Balls

- Moose

- Bearing Connections

[Suspenders 43]

I check for loose stem bearings on many of the bikes that come in when checking the fork alignment. Pulling at the base of the forks can give you an idea of play in the fork bushings and the steering stem. As you guys said the steering stem I set up with just a little bit of resistance usually after over torquing them to seat them if they were just serviced.