Ask Bowers

[Bagstr 288]

This Thread is dedicated to learning How to Do those pesky mechanical repairs motos seem to always require. Everyone is entitled to an opinion.

We have it on Expert advice that all KTM wheel bearings should be replaced.

"Go with after market wheel bearings and you should be fine for the whole ride. If you still have the originals in your bike change them now, ask Bowers about this.

http://www.steahlyof...d-seal-kit.html

CiD "

Mr B is listed as having experience with this issue. Here is the first question

How do we know it is time to change wheel bearings? Do we change every one we come into contact with, or just all KTM products?

When the time comes, What is the best method?

Thank You for sharing your knowledge, SandBagger

[Spaugh 1]

Why do you think the oems are bad? They are standard skf or whatever bearing???

I've put literally 1000's of hours on stock wheel bearing s. Never had a failure?

They get rough when you spin them like any bearing thats how to tell if they are shot. You can probably wiggle the wheel to check for play also.

[robertaccio 412]

what brad said

[PbdBlue 46]

The rear wheel bearings are notorious for failing. Usually on the drive side. I have not had it happen to me but have witnessed it and it's not pretty. You can feel if they are failing by putting the bike on a stand and grabbing the rear wheel. There should be no side to side movement and it should spin freely without the chain. I have had good luck with quality aftermarket bearings. Carefully pop the dust seals out of both sides with a small screwdriver and wash the oem grease out of the bearing with solvent, then repack thoroughly with quality waterproof grease and finally snap the dust seals back into place. You will be amazed how little grease there is in the bearing from the factory. I replace the rear bearings every couple of years as a precaution. They're cheap and I don't like to walk! Never seen the front ones fail.

[Covered in Dust 163]

On a ride in Utah I was riding behind Bowers on the road and noticed his rear wheel was about 2 inches out of alignment with his front wheel. Not sure how many miles were on his bike but this was not the 1st rear wheel bearing failure I'd seen on a KTM. The aftermarket bearings are wider than stock so I'm guessing they are a stronger. All I know is I've never had to replace them again.

CiD

[PbdBlue 46]

The only downside with the retrofit bearings is I think the spacers are no longer retained with the wheel. Can anyone confirm? Not a big deal but makes putting the wheel back on a little more difficult.

[paulmbowers 236]

Well.

Ahem.

I'm obviously an expert at these things...

I've replaced a few sets of rear bearings because they got "notchy" and one set of fronts because I thought is was about time.

Whenever I change tires, I take a second to turn the bearings by hand- they will have some preload (mostly the seal) but should turn smoothly.

Yes, they go bad, take a walk over at KTMtalk- it's not just me. The trick is to catch the badness before it kills the hub. In Utah, I was feeling the bike waver a bit down the highway, and knew something was amiss. Then CID called out on the radio to let me know what was wrong.

The bearings are, as Spaugh has volunteered, fairly industry standard, and you can buy them on ebay for about $5. But... the setup consists of seals, bearings, a long (about 3") center spacer and two outside spacers you're probably familiar with- they often fall off when you remove the wheel. Those spacers have a surface on which the seal rides. When we ride, there is mud,dirt,sand and water, the mortal enemies of seals. (insert baby harp seal joke here- they're all batty!!!)

Those contaminants get under the seal lip and grind a groove into the spacers- that groove then defeats the seal and allows contaminants into the bearings, hastening their demise.

So it's not good enough to replace the bearings- the seals and the spacers should be replaced as well.

On my 525/40/65, there was a circlip on ONE side as well.

So, back to Utah.

Curtis was at the dealer in Grand Junction when I called, and he was able to purchase a Moose aftermarket kit that is slightly wider than the stock, and does not retain the circlip. The center spacer is always used, as the axle tightens on the bearings and all three spacers.

I've not yet checked the bearings on the 500, but will add one to the spare parts kit. Was I headed out on a many-thousand mile trip on a used bike, I'd change the bearings before I left. Changing them in the garage is far superior than Room 14 at a motel in Utah with a borrowed drift from the Maytag repairman.

[Strega 0]

Damn I take good pics.

[paulmbowers 236]

Damn I take good pics.

I blocked the shot.

Told you where to stand.

Shame you missed the bike falling off the laundry bucket.

[Guest Crusty]

I got 26,000 miles In 9 years, out of the stock rear wheel bearings on my 680L that were never serviced.

It's seen harder miles than most.

River rapids at the Desert Dash.

They were Honda OEM though.

[paulmbowers 236]

Anyone else hear an irritating buzzing sound?

[TrophyHunter 15]

Damn I take good pics.

I blocked the shot.

Told you where to stand.

Well, evidently you are a good listener, at least.....per one person's perspective.

[hoss314 0]

Anyone else hear an irritating buzzing sound?

[paulmbowers 236]

Anyone else hear an irritating buzzing sound?

Like a skeeter on a warm summer night.

You know, the one that you can't quite swat- keeps coming back to irritate an otherwise peaceful evening.

[PbdBlue 46]

When I did Mex2Can one of the guys had it happen to him and it took out the hub and the brake caliper. The upgrade kit is probably pretty bulletproof. The OEM work fine if you keep on top of them. It amazes me that KTM hasn't changed this. They've been using the same rear hub setup forever.

[Bagstr 288]

Good feed back guys, or was it buzz?

Evidently a drift and 5lb sledge are the tools of choice. No heat involved? I checked the 350 ( 5800 miles ) and there are only 1.5 inches of side to side on the bearing. That will be good for another 1K. :-) For good measure, I checked the chain and it measures 268 mm @ 18 links. KTM spec is 272. Front 13t is a little hooked, sliders OK. Time to empty my chair for $$ for chain, sprocket and sliders. If I find an extra buck, one of those Orange TM Designs guides.

Thanks A-lot Gents, all this is going so well I may check the air in my tires, both front and rear.

[Spaugh 1]

Crusty doesn't seem to get the OEM thing. Honda doesn't make bearings, they just like Yamaha, Suz, KTM, etc all purchase them from the same OEMs in Japan, Taiwan, China, or Germany (most seem to be Japanese or Taiwan).

[Spaugh 1]

PS Dave, get the acerbis chain guide, it is a better unit than the TM designs ones. I had a TM designs one on my 350 and it broke because it had plastic hardware holding together? The old RFS TM designs ones were better made than the new units.

[paulmbowers 236]

Heat is optional, but preferred.

For installation in the comfort of your home, freeze the bearings (into which you've sneaked additional grease) for a couple hours, then gently heat the hub area- some folks say use a heat gun, not a torch.

Minimizes the tapping.

DO NOT FORGET to put the center spacer in before the final bearing.

[PbdBlue 46]

Yeah I just use a brass drift and knock them out from the back side. Don't forget to remove the circlip first!

[daijones 0]

Never had any wheel bearing issues on any of my recent KTM's, 400 hours on 530 and 300 hours on a 300 and no play at all. I don't pressure wash my bikes much which I think helps but been very pleased, only bearing I had to replace around 280 hours on my 300 was the lower hiem joint which has a touch of play.

[Guest Crusty]

Crusty doesn't seem to get the OEM thing. Honda doesn't make bearings, they just like Yamaha, Suz, KTM, etc all purchase them from the same OEMs in Japan, Taiwan, China, or Germany (most seem to be Japanese or Taiwan).

The OEM fuel line on the KTM we raced at the San Felipe 250 couldn't finish the race. LOL.

The one in my sig. pic. spilled fuel all over my new white boots.

Being forced to stop and fix the bike I ended up with a good pic.

[paulmbowers 236]

bzzzZZZZZZzzzzzzzslap BZzzzzzzzbb

bzzzzz

bZz. Bzzzzzzz bzb slap bzzzzz

[bikeslut 1]

Crusty- please stop crapping in this thread

[Guest Crusty]

I guess I would run anything but OEM. parts. BZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

Moose Racing KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Upgrade Kit

• Instead of just replacing the worn bearings in your KTM, upgrade them with this complete kit
• Compared to other bikes, KTM uses low load wheel bearings, this kit brings them up to spec
• Upgrade your bearings, spacers, and seals in one shot

• Item # 20811

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/20811/i/moose-racing-ktm-rear-wheel-bearing-upgrade-kit