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new fork seals

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I bought a 2006 WR450F from a friend, and promptly blew out both fork seals... one was just a minor weep, but the other was a projectile vomit onto the brake disc

So: into the tool zone- I know for most people, replacing seals is like changing the oil; no big deal... but I was apprehensive

I figured, whats the worst I could do? Lose parts? Screw up the new seals? Undo a cap without releasing pressure and have it take my eye out? Put it together in the wrong order?

All very real possibilities, know my wrench talent, but assessing the issues helped me relax... worst case (other than loss of binocular vision) was to buy more parts, swallow my pride and have the shop fix it.

So I bought the seals, but the driver was not in stock; due to lurking habits on thumper-talk, I decided to fabricate my own... let's see; appropriate size of pvc in the garage- check! Hack saw- check! Hose clamps- check!

Set the PVC in the vise, and start the bisecting process... hhmmmm... duh... the vised piece of pipe is not letting the blade move... I'll just hold the PVC in my hand, and cut it like that.... now that the bisecting process of my FINGER is complete, I'll figure something ELSE out...

seal driver complete, superglued fingertip complete, cursing fit complete, assuring my wife I am completely capable of doing this myself complete...

now to the "how to"

this was PERFECT... every single thing was covered! NOW! If my ADD-riddled personality would've let me pay attention to the whole thing, it would've been a piece of cake... watch the WHOLE thing! all parts...

the only issue I had was not "setting" the washer and bushing with the tool before setting the seal... lesson learned, and it will go much easier next time

Front tire OFF, ready to dig in...

forks.jpg

what have I got myself into?

forks3.jpg

hey... almost like I know what I'm doing!

forks1.jpg

how do I put the tire back on?

THAT'S what I did to my WR, (yesterday technically)

Thumpertalk, and some people here (notably zracing, steel rain and Mimi), gave me the confidence to try something new, so thanks for all the support, even if you didn't know you were supporting me...

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Just don't take a DRZ rear shock apart. Don't ask me how I know.....

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I used to work on my bike all the time.

When I had a bike.

there there, big fella... you can work on my bike any time you want... DRZ needs a rear shock re-built

I need new fork springs in the WR AND DRZ, and a new rear shock for the Yamaha.

The rekluse still isn't set right for the override feature... it could also use a little cleaning

And the TTR50 needs some love too... wanna store my DRZ in your garage for a while?

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Just don't take a DRZ rear shock apart. Don't ask me how I know.....

Piker. :coolio:

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Whats the axe for? I didnt see that in the video? Must be part two?

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I got your text... and forgot all about it until I saw this... sorry.

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Working on my bikes alone in my man cave garage has always been a great form of Zen meditation for me. Do it almost everyday. I have plenty to work on.

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I figured, whats the worst I could do?

Glad you got it figured out! This is the attitude I have when trying to fix things. I usually end up with a cut finger or bloody knuckle too. :wacko:

Question: how did you end up measuring the oil height?? I am interested in the different ghetto techniques used when you don't have the deluxe oil height measuring tool.

Motion_Pro_Suspension_Fork_Oil_Level_Gauge_UTL0096.jpg

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I used a fencepole level

level.jpg

to make sure I had it straight, the a micrometer

caliper.jpg

and headlamp to see the level with the collapsed fork tube

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Whats the axe for? I didnt see that in the video? Must be part two?

nope... my son said I might need to axe a question

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I figured, whats the worst I could do?

Glad you got it figured out! This is the attitude I have when trying to fix things. I usually end up with a cut finger or bloody knuckle too. :wacko:

Question: how did you end up measuring the oil height?? I am interested in the different ghetto techniques used when you don't have the deluxe oil height measuring tool.

Motion_Pro_Suspension_Fork_Oil_Level_Gauge_UTL0096.jpg

I have a turkey baster with a hose clamp around the outside. pretty getto but works great.

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I had a turkey baster on stand by, in case I overfilled... that would've been the SECOND turkey baster she "lost" in the past few years

the first one is my coolant overflow bottle :unsure:

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Whats the axe for? I didnt see that in the video? Must be part two?

nope... my son said I might need to axe a question

When it is time for the Bubba Fix. I have one just like it. :blush:

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I used a fencepole level

level.jpg

to make sure I had it straight, the a micrometer

caliper.jpg

and headlamp to see the level with the collapsed fork tube

It is good to tackle something new once in a while. BTW that is a vernier caliper, this is a micrometer

micrometer.jpg

Ken :rolleyes:

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Joliet- you are absolutely correct...

But whoever had the idea about the turkey baster had a better way; attach a hose clamp at the correct height (100mm from the tip or whatever)

make the fork plumb, then extract out the right amount- the reality is: that is what the motion pro tool does, and you can make your own from stuff you already have

and you won't get in trouble until Thanksgiving if you steal the turkey baster out of the kitchen

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and... fork seals are blown out (again) on the WR...

any ideas? Too much oil? Too soft springs? Nicked the seals upon install? I'm a freaking idiot and should just pay a mechanic? They all do that? Fork tube damage? I'm too much man for this bike to handle?

any advice?

I'm going to replace them again (yes, and the brake pads)...

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and... fork seals are blown out (again) on the WR...

any ideas? Too much oil? Too soft springs? Nicked the seals upon install? I'm a freaking idiot and should just pay a mechanic? They all do that? Fork tube damage? I'm too much man for this bike to handle?

any advice?

I'm going to replace them again (yes, and the brake pads)...

All of the stuff you listed is possible except the part about paying a mechanic. :unsure: What kind of seals did you use-OEM vs chinesse vs??? Did you blow both of them at the same time? If so maybe you are type that cinches the tie down so tight the tire is almost hitting the front fender?? On the bright side..think of how good you will be at changing these seals and how clean the oil will be after doing it again. Personally I think its a yamaha thing as my yz was going through fork seals like rear tires on pyro's bike. New one day..ruined the next. Of course that was when I actually rode the thing. :heh:

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and... fork seals are blown out (again) on the WR...

any ideas? Too much oil? Too soft springs? Nicked the seals upon install? I'm a freaking idiot and should just pay a mechanic? They all do that? Fork tube damage? I'm too much man for this bike to handle?

You'd have to put in waaaaay too much oil and you'd notice that your forks wouldn't be wanting to compress before you'd be noticing the leaks.

Soft springs....nah.

You may have nicked the seals. Wrap any sharp edges with clear tape before sliding your seals on. Don't forget to remove the tape as soon as the seals are on the tube.

Are you a freaking idiot? The Shadow knows!

Fork tube damage would have to be fairly severe to ruin the seals right away. I am running some dinged and scratched fork tubes on a couple of bikes and the most I have to change seals usually is once a year on those bikes.

Maybe you could have installed the seals upside-down? Just a thought.

Also, I use any brand of fork seals around except for the MSR ones that have the red seals. I seem to have bad luck with those.

I hope that I have answered some of your questions. :coolio:

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What did you say about intelligents this side of I-5 ? (pretty good word huh), sorry I just had to poke you back, seriously though I have quit letting KLXBEN help me tie down my bike because both times he tied it down TIGHT! the fork seals blew. It was very secure but spendy. Alan Fox is in Alpine, do's good work.

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I ordered the seals...and a bullet for the top of the tube...and some (more) brake pads...and some fork savers..

As for cinching the bike down too far...I am no MXer, but I DO jump on occasion.. And sometimes I bottom out; I would think that's harder on the forks than cinching them down in the back of the truck...but I'll make a brace anyways- Uncle Champ lives in Campo, and if its TWO things they know in Campo, its a long thermometer and blowing seals

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Well... like I told Uncle Champ, I have always cinched my bikes down tight and have never blown any of my own fork seals. But I have had to replace the seals on all the bikes I had at some point or another. So now my bikes are nice and tight and Champs flop around.

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From my internet survey it seems the general thought is that cinching down is not to much an issue unless you take it to the extreme, normal riding exerts way more force albeit for shorter amounts of time.

I had used a fork saver but it had a nasty tendency of falling out of place... but that was a result of my trailer being extremely bouncy on dirt roads. Still, it was not confidence inspiring and I ceased using it(well it actually just was lost when driving on a dirt road and not found again). It is possible I was using it incorrectly but I do think I had it correct.

I have heard of success with seal savers and am using them on my bike. Not enough experience to tell myself but the advice came from a suspension tuner. Also some empirical evidence has proved positive with others I have spoken with. The kind with Velcro that can be easily cleaned are supposedly good.

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I had used a fork saver but it had a nasty tendency of falling out of place... but that was a result of my trailer being extremely bouncy on dirt roads. Still, it was not confidence inspiring and I ceased using it(well it actually just was lost when driving on a dirt road and not found again). It is possible I was using it incorrectly but I do think I had it correct.

Pffft....I can never keep one of those things in place, even if I am not driving down a very bouncy road. <_<

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