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I've been searching and thinking about adding to the stable for a while. I love my Aprilia and won't sell it, but wanted a lighter, less powerful motorcycle for more technical riding and want to get into some local enduro type racing.

Found what I was looking for,

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2011 Yamaha YZ450F

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As you can see it is practically brand new. It was owned by a Marine that used it once for "less than two hours". Shortly after buying it he deployed to Trashcanistan then came home for 6 weeks and deployed again. He's been home for 4 months now and his wife is 3 months pregnant so the never used dirt bike had to go.

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I'll give it a good home.

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In fact I've already got a pile of goodies to farkle it out with

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Look for updates in this thread as the goodies get put on.

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He said "racing" ... That hurts just saying it, wow, very tech looking. When did Enzo Ferrari's crew start designing YZ450's? Sweet

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Nice score. Beautiful bike and if it's anything like the WR, you'll love it. After riding with you some, I could see you doing very well in some enduro racing. Look forward to the progress!

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Oh Yeah, Love It.

Anxious To get the report on the LED Headlamp. good.gif

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Oh Yeah, Love It.

Anxious To get the report on the LED Headlamp. good.gif

Last night I hooked it up to an old motorcycle battery and initially I wasn't blown away with it's brightness, but I realized I couldn't hold the battery, headlight and the wires on the battery terminals and aim the light at the same time. I know it works, but can't say how well, for now. Hooking it all up might be a few weeks as I need a new brake cable to make it fit and have already spent a boatload at this point. Eventually I'll do a side by side comparison with the Aprilia.

According to the packaging the light is 3 watts. I'm not sure if that is per light or the total for the two LEDs.

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3 watts or 3 amps?

LEDs are much more efficient than other types of lamps. I would think lumens would tell the story. LEDs may use a different rating.

Just checked and the Baja Designs Squadron 4 LED is rated @ 3600 lumens and 3.6 amps/42 watts.

Have Fun

PS - Tell me about dropping a load on a new bike. ohmy.gif

Oh Yeah, Love It.

Anxious To get the report on the LED Headlamp. good.gif

Last night I hooked it up to an old motorcycle battery and initially I wasn't blown away with it's brightness, but I realized I couldn't hold the battery, headlight and the wires on the battery terminals and aim the light at the same time. I know it works, but can't say how well, for now. Hooking it all up might be a few weeks as I need a new brake cable to make it fit and have already spent a boatload at this point. Eventually I'll do a side by side comparison with the Aprilia.

According to the packaging the light is 3 watts. I'm not sure if that is per light or the total for the two LEDs.

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250to270.jpg

Out with the old 250mm and in with the new 270mm.

Once you ride with oversized rotors, you'll never go back. The 250mm might work for this bike (I've read otherwise) but after the last ride with the 5,000' elevation drop on 8 miles of singletrack, I'll take mine supersized, with cooling fins.

Dave, I'll take a picture of the label for you and post it later.

I read the Bajadesigns website too and can't believe their LED light burns 42 watts (and $350).

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bagstr,

Here's the label from the headlight packaging.

2012-10-06124538.jpg

I was an electrician in the Navy, seems like a lifetime ago, and may be. For you after a lifetime as an electrician you may remember your Ohm's law conversions better than I.

Is there a way I/we can do some calculations and check this things power requirements? I have a multimeter, power source and a calculator.

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Watts divided by Volts = Amps ; Amps x Volts = Watts Lumens are a unit of light and can vary with different types of circuits using the same wattage. Think of amps as water through a garden hose, the more flow through a given conductor size = more heat. Spaugh, are you riding? I'm just a History Major and Electrician, a dangerous combination! king.gifdirol.gifking.gif

Obviously, 30 deg is the left / right light spread. 3 watts divided by 12 volts = .25 amps. That means nothing unless we know the efficiency of the circuit. Even given the " Low Consumption" label, it is hard to believe the light ( lumen ) output is similar to the BD unit. North County Yamaha has a Squadron working display and that baby puts out serious light. $345 is hard to swallow, but it just depends how much night riding a guy does. BD refers to the unit as for " Aggressive Nightime Riding." Read non-DOT compliant / Race Light.

I have a Trail Tech X2 that cost about a third of the BD while providing C+ lighting, Only marginally better than the D- KTM lighting.

bagstr,

Here's the label from the headlight packaging.

2012-10-06124538.jpg

I was an electrician in the Navy, seems like a lifetime ago, and may be. For you after a lifetime as an electrician you may remember your Ohm's law conversions better than I.

Is there a way I/we can do some calculations and check this things power requirements? I have a multimeter, power source and a calculator.

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I cracked open the back of the lens to check the light. They are MR16 3W LED lightbulbs. So there's my answer. 3 watts for low beam 6 watts for high beam + wattever the small controller box uses.

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Congrats Jon......Sweet looking bike!!

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you only bought it because it has the wht red color scheme package....... did you include a steahly flywheel weight in that package? looks good, no excuses not to the tecate hs this year.

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you only bought it because it has the wht red color scheme package....... did you include a steahly flywheel weight in that package? looks good, no excuses not to the tecate hs this year.

I admit the white/black/red was more appealing than the blue/white. :coolio:

I shopped around and the Steahly weight is a 9 oz disc that bolts to the flywheel and adds a platic spacer to the cover. Seems like a halfassed fix. I'll buy the GYT-R flywheel but first I'm going to ride it for awhile, break it in really, and see how it feels after a few dozen hours of use and than make a decision on a flywheel.

Yup, planning on the Tecate HS.

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Cycra full armor skid plate installed.

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Moose Racing radiator guards - IN

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18" Warp 9 wheel, swapped with the 19" (now for sale)

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Warp 9 front wheel (old wheels are for sale) with the new 270mm rotor and fresh forkskins.

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What you can't see is all the bearings are now well greased, the wide open valve cover vent hose has been rerouted to the airbox and a LOT of Loctite has been applied to various fasteners. The bike is almost ready to hit the trail.

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Comin' along nicely. Curious. I don't know what the thinking behind swapping the 19 for the 18 is. I know track bikes seem to have the 19 and DS seems to run the 18, but don't know why. Since you're setting this up for enduro work, interested in knowing....

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Comin' along nicely. Curious. I don't know what the thinking behind swapping the 19 for the 18 is. I know track bikes seem to have the 19 and DS seems to run the 18, but don't know why. Since you're setting this up for enduro work, interested in knowing....

The way I understand it....the outside diameters of both tires is the same, allowing some extra side wall flex before pinch flatting on an 18 (less of an issue on a groomed track?)

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Guest Crusty

Comin' along nicely. Curious. I don't know what the thinking behind swapping the 19 for the 18 is. I know track bikes seem to have the 19 and DS seems to run the 18, but don't know why. Since you're setting this up for enduro work, interested in knowing....

The way I understand it....the outside diameters of both tires is the same, allowing some extra side wall flex before pinch flatting on an 18 (less of an issue on a groomed track?)

I own both, tire selection is limited for the 19" wheel!

Craig.

The mod I would get for that bike is a Doug D motor relocation kit.

You could prolly get it cheap from Cristi!

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Comin' along nicely. Curious. I don't know what the thinking behind swapping the 19 for the 18 is. I know track bikes seem to have the 19 and DS seems to run the 18, but don't know why. Since you're setting this up for enduro work, interested in knowing....

Most folks would say it's more of a personal preference. A magazine tested a KTM 300 2T for motocross use and said the 18 is better for motocross riding, but again other mags have said the 19" rim allows the bike to turn better. IDK Riders have been successful with a 19" rim offroad, but I've only known 18" for my riding and all the hard offroad riders that I try to emulate use an 18" rear. It wasn't a big deal to swap it as I can sell the Excels to cover the cost of the Warp 9s. I only replaced the front to match the rear. Looking good is as important as riding good. :rolleyes: Slut and Crusty have both explained good reasons to swap rear wheels. Tire selection and sidewall height. Although I don't now I'll eventually have a bib mousse so won't be worried about pinch flats or any type of flats for that matter.

Im in Oregon tonight and am 2 IPAs and a Rogue ale in when I wrote this so it may need some editing.

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18 rear gives a little more clearance before bottoming out. If I had an extra half inch clearance on the rear of my bike it would not bottom out. I forgot. Doesnt the 18 also drop the gearing. Better lower end and dont have to drop so much on the front sprocket?

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18 rear gives a little more clearance before bottoming out. If I had an extra half inch clearance on the rear of my bike it would not bottom out. I forgot. Doesnt the 18 also drop the gearing. Better lower end and dont have to drop so much on the front sprocket?

I "think" I heard the outside diameters of the two sizes are about the same, negating any "bottoming out" or "better acceleration" thoughts

I do think, generally, the smaller RIM should allow changes of direction easier, as less rolling mass. Slightly larger contact patch too?

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In regards to rim size vs overall diameter, the tire that came on the bike was a 120/80-19. I replaced it with a 120/90-18. The overall diameter is essentially the same for these two examples. Comparing them side by side in the garage they appeared to be the same. I don't think I've ever seen a 120/80-18 but have seen 110/100-18 and 130/80-18 and 140/80-18. Basically you're keeping the same diameter of wheel with the wider or narrower tire. Except in the case of the 140/80-18, but that is a big beast of a tire that is wider and taller than the rest.

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The mod I would get for that bike is a Doug D motor relocation kit.

You could prolly get it cheap from Cristi!

Many of the pro MX teams are doing the motor relocation on the newer Yamahas. I've read much talk that Milsaps and other taller/heavier riders don't seem to have the negative handling effects of the reverse engine which lighter riders seem to express. It will be interesting to see what, if at all characteristics the engine design has for Pasta and his application of enduro riding.

Pasta - the bike looks sweet. You scored.

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