bikeslut 1 Posted March 21, 2010 I rode Wil's bike for a while today, and was amazed at how hard it was to pull in the clutch... I know, in the mountain bike world, they offer a rotary type unit that makes cable pulls easier... Anything like that for bikes Anybody think it could be as simple as "he needs new cables" He needs something done...it was torture While we are at it...who has regeared a YZF for the trails and what did you do? I'm sure the bike is a beast in the open dez, but he and I took turns stalling it all day long...I'm thinking he starts with one down in the front, then follow up with 2 up in the back if that doesn't do it... He never uses 5th anyway, so why not get that torque monster in it's power band? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
650hucker 0 Posted March 21, 2010 I was just about to post this, thanks bob! And rekluse clutches are $500 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted March 21, 2010 Only rich people and sissies use those... Rich sissies also have an electric start ...Considering editing to keep thread on track ...Figuring why bother? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbw 0 Posted March 21, 2010 I have ridden a friends yz and it also had an extremely stiff clutch lever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
socalhodaka 104 Posted March 21, 2010 I would first fully service the cable and all the pivots on the lever. I would think a flywheel weight would help on the trail. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 561 Posted March 22, 2010 If all else fails, you can add an extension to the actuator boss and give yourself more leverage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teebes 0 Posted March 22, 2010 What year is the yamaha? My '01 yz250f clutch is the same way and is a work out in technical stuff. Same thing, tough clutch. Here are a few helpful mods (for most older models): http://www.thumperfaq.com/clutch_mods.htm Should help soften it up to feel more like a WR than a full out motocross setup. PS> Swapping cables on mine didn't help. I still need to do the above mods, someday Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hoss314 0 Posted March 22, 2010 maybe he has the same problem on his other bike.....slips out of his grip...... that's why it wheelies so easy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
socalhodaka 104 Posted March 22, 2010 There is a product by Moose called Easy Pull Clutch System. Check what some of the guys on Thumpertalk said. They like it. Easy Pull Clutch Retails for 36.95 with 20% would be $29 plus tax. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted March 22, 2010 maybe he has the same problem on his other bike.....slips out of his grip...... that's why it wheelies so easy Ah. Equipment malfunction. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted March 22, 2010 Thanks Kelly...that's exactly what I was thinking of...hard to google from the studio...part of your problme solved Wil...sprockets are cheaper than flywheels but moth may be good There is a product by Moose called Easy Pull Clutch System. Check what some of the guys on Thumpertalk said. They like it.Easy Pull Clutch Retails for 36.95 with 20% would be $29 plus tax. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
starpal2 0 Posted March 22, 2010 ahh the yz's. my 02 yz250f is as smooth as butter. one of the things you can do to make it easier to use is replace the springs in the clutch basket it may have the wrong ones or maybe you should put in the 250 ones as they are softer. as for the pull why dont you just adjust the cable? if you want to change the gearing alot then change the front one if its just a little then the back. also a flywheel is almost easier then the weights as they are cheap on ebay. they will definitely help in those slower spots. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
socalhodaka 104 Posted March 22, 2010 ahh the yz's. my 02 yz250f is as smooth as butter. one of the things you can do to make it easier to use is replace the springs in the clutch basket it may have the wrong ones or maybe you should put in the 250 ones as they are softer. as for the pull why dont you just adjust the cable? if you want to change the gearing alot then change the front one if its just a little then the back. also a flywheel is almost easier then the weights as they are cheap on ebay. they will definitely help in those slower spots. I agree again here with the flywheel weight. I think it will have more effect on the control of the motor then gearing. If your motor is a high rev motor its still going to be a high rev motor with lower gearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sneeker 29 Posted March 22, 2010 I use the MSR Pro-Raptor Clutch Lever Assembly on both my motos. It works great, nice and easy to pull, no fore arm workout from the clutch. Worth every penny to me. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productD...odFamilyId=9420 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kellymac530 0 Posted March 22, 2010 as far as stalling, flywheel weight is what helps with that. gearing doesnt help stalling nearly as much as flywheel weights. if you are stuck on the gearing thing and insiston doing it anyway...smaller front by one tooth, to start with. remember, as a rule of thumb not exact math, 1 front tooth = 3 rear teeth the other way. i.e. 14/48 stock gearing will feel almost the same as 13/45 or 15/51. if the gearing he has is 14/49 stock go to 13/49, this will loose a little top end but it will make it snappyer on the bottom and allow for slower speeds in the tight stuff. if the rpm's drop too low too quick it will still stall tho without flywheel weight. flywheel weight helps the crank keep rotating when off of the throttle so it doesnt stall as easy. it also will cause it to NOT rev UP as quick taking OUT some of the harsh bark...if that is what you want....not me. as for the clutch, the washers under the springs is reported to work well, but i personally think it might ADD to the hard pull because it is adding preload to the springs, unless i am misunderstanding it. the cam actuator that kelly {socalhodaka} posted is a good compromise that will lessen the pull. i have used those in the past and the only draw back is they are very sensitive to keeping the clutch adjusted correctly. what you are doing is changing the leverage ratio. so it pulls easier but not as far. so your clutch needs to be adjusted farther out with less play than some like. this is the same situation as the reweld and lengthen the actuator arm. increased leverage ratio. the BEST, albeit most expensive, is a hydraulic clutch system...im sure kelly can order one thru one of his suppliers. i think they were 2-300 bucks. the cheapest, easiest fix is completely clean the throttle cable out and lube it, maybe even change it to a new one...,.then MAN UP and pull the clutch.......my 16 yr old daughter rides a 250f yamaha and thinks the clutch is fine. bikeslut is not only a girl....he must be a SISSY little girl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
650hucker 0 Posted March 22, 2010 Well, the 426 clutch's are considerably harder to pull than a 250 of the same year. But anyways I do not have the skill to utilize my bike's top end anyways, so a lower gearing would be EXTREMELY helpful, as even in first, it's not really in the powerband till around 20 MPH which is much to fast for me to control though some of the more tech hill climbs...When I switched to the WR, it was a world easier to ride...I also wouldn't mind mellowing on the powerband as well, it's a little too snappy...but I also enjoy that, so unless it's an easy fix, then oh well. Flywheel weight? What's that do and how's it help stalling? Kellymac exlpained it some, but I'm still not sure... Basically, My bike's clutch is too stiff, and only catches way out where I'm almost releasing it, the bike has too much top end for my skills, I'd like to slow it down a bit. The only place I need that top end is the desert, which is twice a year max, where as trail riding is twice a month or so. Also, My suspension is a tad stiff in the front. It feels harsh on some impacts, but soft on others...Not sure how to adjust it. I am very familliar with compression, rebound, preload, high and low speed dampening ect. but not on dirtbikes...I know my fork has rebound screws on top, but how can I adjust compression? It's a little stiff for my weight in the rocks and on some jumps, but on some jumps it feels perfect...not sure why. I weigh 145 lbs geared up. Last but not least, my skill is lacking! What I can I do to fix that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted March 22, 2010 I wasn't clear on the stalling thing...yes, it stalls easy on that kind of terrain...a heavier flywheel will help with that The other thing is, having to modulate the clutch so much on slow sections...it is just geared wrong for singletrack trails Yeah; I loved when you snapped the throttle it took OFF...nice, but it doesn't have a slow speed. Which is what I like. I'll be the first to admit that on the dirt, anything over 60 has no appeal to me... Its why I volunteer to ride sweep on fire roads and sand washes all the time I am...a sissy... There kelly ...ya happy... Ya big bully...big orange bully... Let's ride soon...bully As far as the washer thing...I was thinking the opposite...how do you shorten the springs? But at any rate; it is a stiff pull... Love that motor though Bully Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
650hucker 0 Posted March 22, 2010 Yeah, when you do wind out the throttle, it's definitly an arm stretcher... And yes, 60 is my max on dirt, unless I'm out in ocotillo... Couldn't I just put a softer spring in? My dad has a drawer in the garage designated for clutch, brake, torsion and misc. springs. Maybe I could find something there... The stalling was coming from my lack of skill, the stiff clutch, and a really powerful engine geared tall. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 907 Posted March 22, 2010 Heavier flywheel comes with the light setup I sent you a message about a while ago. http://www.thumperfaq.com/mxa_flywheel.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
650hucker 0 Posted March 22, 2010 Thanks for all the help so far. Now I need to do it and get motivated... What is the stock gearing? I'm going to drop a tooth in the front (or two???) to start (cheaper than rear sprocket), along with some clutch work (Cheapest) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted March 22, 2010 The easiest way to compute your gearing is to just count the teeth...you may be able to read the numbers on your sprockets though Realize one thing...you change that gearing, without the other two things (clutch and flywheel) and you make your bike harder to ride...do not neglect those two things. I think the clutch is a bigger issue than the flywheel... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kellymac530 0 Posted March 22, 2010 softer clutch springs out of a wr will probably help the pull. im still gonna bet you could use a new cable or at least a removal and thorough cleaning and lubing. yes the 426 has a very tough pull compared to some bikes, but in proper working order it isnt that much harder than any other 400-450 bike. try removing it {the clutch cable} and checking it closely for kinks or frays. if okay, roll it into a loop small enough to fit into a container like a large coffee can or oil drain pan. put some solvent in the container, like mineral spirits or turpentine or if you own a solvent tank that will work best. let it soak for a while, couple hours, then start working it back and forth while it is in the solvent. work it really well. take it out and let it hang straight and vertically over some newspaper or old towels to drain, bow it out with some air. like your hair...repeat...3-4 time to make sure its clean inside and dry. while it is hanging vertically and straight spay some cable lube in the top. keep sparying it until lube drips out of the bottom. i let it sit and repeat twice, hours later. reinstall. if that doesnt help you may have aftermarket springs in that thing and they are just too stiff, then try wr springs. that will fix it unless there is a bigger problem which i cannot diagnose without seeing it. now the flywheel weight.... take a bucket like a 5 gal paint type of bucket with a handle. try to swing the bucket with your arm in a big circle. then try to stop swinging it. now put 2 gallons in it and try again....it takes you longer to get it spinning in a circle at full speed and longer to slow down the rotation. that is what flywheel weight does. it stretches out the increase and decrease in rotational speed of the crank shaft. this makes it rev up a little slower and decel alot slower. this prevents stalling. when you come into a turn and let off of the throttle the crank want to stop spinning and that stalls the motor even when you have the clutch pulled in. adding flywheel weight makes the crank want to continue spinning, preventing stalling.....a body in motion stays in motion physics kinda thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kellymac530 0 Posted March 22, 2010 dont get me wrong...gearing is very important to a bikes feel so get your gearing right like i said in my first post, but flywheel weights and a clutch you like to use will help more...all 3 things are important Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted March 22, 2010 take a bucket like a 5 gal paint type of bucket with a handle. So- Wil just needs a 5 gallon paint bucket with the correct Yamaha bolt pattern? And he can add and subtract paint until the bike runs better? Huh. Cool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kellymac530 0 Posted March 23, 2010 i wish it were that simple hahahaha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites