KTM EXC 500 best/first mods?

[RP415 0]

I cannot heap enough praise on the Rekluse. There are different versions, but I bought the full kit (Core EXP 3.0). I added the LHRB this week, and it was priceless at Corral on the gnarly, rutted down hills.

With new Cycra hand guards (I needed more clearance than my Acerbis ones), I am at $1,300 for the entire system. But man is it smooth, and I rode up crap I would have never made before!

I have heard the Rekluse kit that is just the internals makes the clutch pull really hard and has some issues. Anyone tried this kit?

Jim, you want to sell those Acerbis hand guards?? Or anything else you have for the 500?

What is the best headlight upgrade that has HI and LOW beam so it looks street legal?

[RP415 0]

after riding technical stuff today im thinking rekluse also. I have the Cyclops led headlight on my 350 and works really well especially for only $60, fitment was little weird but nothing too crazy

Was just checking this bulb out online and it looks like a great upgrade. Did you need the rectifier kit? Did you have to do any modifications or did it just pop right in? How is the HI/LOW function?

[darylhunter 1]

Need/desire flush mount LED rear turn signal lights. Any suggestions?

[Bp619 104]

after riding technical stuff today im thinking rekluse also. I have the Cyclops led headlight on my 350 and works really well especially for only $60, fitment was little weird but nothing too crazy

Was just checking this bulb out online and it looks like a great upgrade. Did you need the rectifier kit? Did you have to do any modifications or did it just pop right in? How is the HI/LOW function?

No rectifier needed for our fuel injected bikes, yes has hi/low with crazy light output. I think your ktm has a different housing that should be easier than my husqvarna, from what I remember owner Daryl saying but wasn't anything difficult to get in just minor shaving of plastic housing. I think he said ktm is plug and play give him a call super helpful.

[RP415 0]

Need/desire flush mount LED rear turn signal lights. Any suggestions?

That is one of the first things I did...Bought it from NCY in Escondido, pretty sure it is Sicass Racing easy fit kit. $89.99 + $15 for license plate holder. Super clean and easy to install, plug and play. Turn signals are integrated into tail light.

[blakeNY9 0]

Congrats on the bike.

+1 on Rekluse, core exp 3.0 is what I've used on a 500 and 350.

Check out Ox Brake over the rekluse LHRB. Cable actuated instead of hydraulically. Half the price and way easier to install and get dialed. Easy two finger lock up of the rear brake.

Baja Designs light is perfect, plug and play.

Sicass Racing makes great plug and play LED turn signals and other controls.

[RP415 0]

after riding technical stuff today im thinking rekluse also. I have the Cyclops led headlight on my 350 and works really well especially for only $60, fitment was little weird but nothing too crazy

Was just checking this bulb out online and it looks like a great upgrade. Did you need the rectifier kit? Did you have to do any modifications or did it just pop right in? How is the HI/LOW function?

No rectifier needed for our fuel injected bikes, yes has hi/low with crazy light output. I think your ktm has a different housing that should be easier than my husqvarna, from what I remember owner Daryl saying but wasn't anything difficult to get in just minor shaving of plastic housing. I think he said ktm is plug and play give him a call super helpful.

I called but Daryl is off today. Talked to someone about it and the 14-15 EXC's have a different inner head light piece so Cyclops is developing a new part as we speak and should have it ready to ship by end of this week. They said call back tomorrow and talk to Daryl about the details. Seems like a great deal for $60, I'm glad to hear you are pumped on it.

[Bp619 104]

RP415 http://dualsport-sd.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20092-best-bulb-for-13-500-exc/page-2

this will show you comparison me and cid had

[EddieEarl 6]

Sweet thread.

I bought a '13 500 EXC last fall. It had 2200 miles and 66 hours. Less than a year later I'm now at 110+ hours and 3400+ miles.

I bought it re-geared (14/48), emissions verified, and remapped.

I put on a double take mirror, acerbis 4 gallon tank, scotts damper, precision concepts seat, and had it re-sprung (stiffer).

I definitely got a good head shake at high speeds (off road) and nothing except moving the forks out flush with the triple clamps took away the shake.

I found the stock suspension way too soft and had George with Suspension 101 re-spring the bike. In the front I went up 2 rates (.45 to .48) and in the back I went from the stock 7.2 to a variable rate 7.5 - 8.5. I'm 200lbs geared up.

The one thing I'm really wondering about is whether to spring for the EXP 3.0 with a LHRB. In some ways it seems completely counter productive to lose the clutch. For God's sake, how do you ride a dirtbike without a clutch!!!??? Then, on the other hand, I'll admit I rarely, if ever, feather the clutch when riding (i hate slow techy stuff anyways - love the high speed baja terrain much better). I'll admit the only time I really use the clutch is to shift gears ... oh yeah ... I'll admit I love the idea of using a lever for the rear brake.

So, for all you rekluse lovers out there what's the main benefit in having the rekluse? It can't be just b/c you don't have to pull in a super-buttery and barely non existent hydraulic clutch.

[blakeNY9 0]

The manual clutch i.e. the lever is still there and available if or when you want to use it when the rekluse is installed. I still clutch on up shifts, not as much with downshifts. But whether u clutchless shift or not isn't dependant on the rekluse auto clutch. That's not its purpose or function. The rekluse only kicks in with its auto disengage function at idle engine speed.

The main benefit of the rekluse is in the technical sections when feathering would be needed or when locking up the rear brake. I like it the most because it allows me to have the LHRB which is a game changer for me as my foot was little better than an on off switch. Having rear brake control at the hand allows so much more modulation.

[RP415 0]

RP415 http://dualsport-sd.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20092-best-bulb-for-13-500-exc/page-2

this will show you comparison me and cid had

Wow that is a huge difference, and for only $60 bucks seems like a no brainer to me!

[EddieEarl 6]

RP415 http://dualsport-sd.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20092-best-bulb-for-13-500-exc/page-2

this will show you comparison me and cid had

Wow that is a huge difference, and for only $60 bucks seems like a no brainer to me!

So true. I just put in the cyclops in my '13 500 EXC and had the chance to test it out for the first time last Tuesday night on 2'fer Tuesday. It was BITCHIN. I've ridden at night quite a bit - Ocotillo, Glamis, Moab - and this 3600 lumen LED made the night turn into day. It is a NO BRAINER and blows away the stock light. Highly recommended.

[EddieEarl 6]

I like it the most because it allows me to have the LHRB which is a game changer for me as my foot was little better than an on off switch. Having rear brake control at the hand allows so much more modulation.

I can totally relate to that ... especially when trying to keep up with 'OnAnySunday' on the fast flat stuff. When going in hard and fast to a right hand turn I really don't like having to bring the right foot up to brake (and like you said a moto boot on a back brake is pretty much on or off). I could really see where a LHRB which could be engaged progressively (just like the front) would make a HUGE difference ... not only in really slow techy stuff, but in high speed right hand turns as well. I know -- I know -- I know ... you're supposed to get all the braking done "BEFORE" the turn, but sometimes life just isn't that simple.

Also, in 2nd and 3rd gear 2 track trails a lot of times during a left hand turn I can lock up the back tire in order to slide it out and then blast out of the corner once the back has slid out far enough. Of course this is a big "no can do" during a right hand turn with a right foot rear brake. With a LHRB I can actually picture doing this now with right hand turns ... only problem is I can't "pop the clutch" coming out of the turn, but most modern EFI bikes have such a good hit down low I suppose I'd be just fine.

So - let me ask this ... besides cost, what's the downside to a Rekluse 3.0 with LHRB? I've been around long enough to know there's no free lunch -- for anything. So, what am I giving up by going with this setup?

[blakeNY9 0]

I like it the most because it allows me to have the LHRB which is a game changer for me as my foot was little better than an on off switch. Having rear brake control at the hand allows so much more modulation.

I can totally relate to that ... especially when trying to keep up with 'OnAnySunday' on the fast flat stuff. When going in hard and fast to a right hand turn I really don't like having to bring the right foot up to brake (and like you said a moto boot on a back brake is pretty much on or off). I could really see where a LHRB which could be engaged progressively (just like the front) would make a HUGE difference ... not only in really slow techy stuff, but in high speed right hand turns as well. I know -- I know -- I know ... you're supposed to get all the braking done "BEFORE" the turn, but sometimes life just isn't that simple.

Also, in 2nd and 3rd gear 2 track trails a lot of times during a left hand turn I can lock up the back tire in order to slide it out and then blast out of the corner once the back has slid out far enough. Of course this is a big "no can do" during a right hand turn with a right foot rear brake. With a LHRB I can actually picture doing this now with right hand turns ... only problem is I can't "pop the clutch" coming out of the turn, but most modern EFI bikes have such a good hit down low I suppose I'd be just fine.

So - let me ask this ... besides cost, what's the downside to a Rekluse 3.0 with LHRB? I've been around long enough to know there's no free lunch -- for anything. So, what am I giving up by going with this setup?

You hit the nail on the head, having that precise control over the rear brake opens up so much more ways to ride for us mere mortals.

In my opinion the only down side is the up front cost of the clutch. The Ox-Brake LHRB is only $169. You can still take over clutch control manually at any time, say during an up hill where you start to bog, you can still engage your clutch lever to raise the RPM's and build power. Or if you want to pop the clutch, you can still do that. Obviously you can only control one lever on your left hand at a time, so you'll have to chose in that instant whether you want brake or clutch. The foot brake lever is also still available. I say you lose nothing and gain a lot, at least thats been my experience.

[EddieEarl 6]

Obviously you can only control one lever on your left hand at a time, so you'll have to chose in that instant whether you want brake or clutch. The foot brake lever is also still available. I say you lose nothing and gain a lot, at least thats been my experience.

What would be killer is if somebody made a small little clutch lever the size of an old school hot start lever like the ones on a CRF / YZF thumper ... ya know that little tiny lever about 1/5th the size of your regular clutch lever you pull in to start while the bike is hot (aka after you crash). If I could have a tiny little clutch lever for my index finger (hydraulic of course) I could then use the other 3 fingers for the OX back break (non hydraulic so I could "feel" it more). Do you know if they make a tiny little clutch lever like this?

[RP415 0]

Obviously you can only control one lever on your left hand at a time, so you'll have to chose in that instant whether you want brake or clutch. The foot brake lever is also still available. I say you lose nothing and gain a lot, at least thats been my experience.

What would be killer is if somebody made a small little clutch lever the size of an old school hot start lever like the ones on a CRF / YZF thumper ... ya know that little tiny lever about 1/5th the size of your regular clutch lever you pull in to start while the bike is hot (aka after you crash). If I could have a tiny little clutch lever for my index finger (hydraulic of course) I could then use the other 3 fingers for the OX back break (non hydraulic so I could "feel" it more). Do you know if they make a tiny little clutch lever like this?

I think that "little tiny lever" would be a lot harder to pull than you think, even with a hydraulic clutch.

[ctoogood 15]

I had the emissions system validated at one of the dealers along with the addition of the FMF pipe.

Came home with some extra parts in a bag that apparently weren't needed . . .

The popping on deceleration was cleared up, and the throttle response off idle and at low throttle openings was much improved.

Between the pipe, validation, and addition of a KTM power parts rear disk guard, I think I spent around $800.

Disk guard came back from Big Bear with a few scratches on it but rear disk was fine

I want to do this!!! I hate the decel popping....

[jawhitmoyer 0]

Two comments from my last ride. On clutch pull, I removed my lever, so no pull issues. That's actually the point of the Rekluse...it does all of that for you. I rode some truly nasty, rocky, steep crap in Big Bear yesterday, and I am blown away how good it is.

I am sending back my LHRB as I just cannot get my mind to use it. I have always been a rear brake guy, including trail braking on the GS. Since I will have the room, I will put the clutch lever back on to check the Rekluse adjustment. But again, you don't EVER need to use the clutch.

[paulmbowers 236]

But again, you don't EVER need to use the clutch.

Hmm. "Need" v. "want".

I'm a Rekluse user, like it very much, and use the clutch manually quite often.

If forced to choose between a standard clutch and a Rekluse without manual override, I'd choose the standard.

[RP415 0]

One more question...what do you guys think are the best handguards?? I have been looking at the Enduro Engineering ones but have not pulled the trigger yet. Looking for enough room for levers, easy install, and strong.

[paulmbowers 236]

One more question...what do you guys think are the best handguards?? I have been looking at the Enduro Engineering ones but have not pulled the trigger yet. Looking for enough room for levers, easy install, and strong.

HighwayDirtBikes no question.

[Crawdaddy 96]

One more question...what do you guys think are the best handguards?? I have been looking at the Enduro Engineering ones but have not pulled the trigger yet. Looking for enough room for levers, easy install, and strong.

HighwayDirtBikes no question.

[EddieEarl 6]

I think that "little tiny lever" would be a lot harder to pull than you think, even with a hydraulic clutch.

Just dreaming out loud here but here's what I'd love to fabricate if I won the lottery ...

- Move left foot rear brake to LHRB. Clutch would move to left "thumb throttle" type control - hydraulic of course - and only if needed with a Rekluse.

- Move right foot shift lever to RHSL - paddle type shifting with right thumb (maybe a fancy electronic shifter).

- All controls on hands. Left side would be rear brake and clutch (if needed). Right side would be throttle, front brake, and shifting.

-

[RP415 0]

I had the emissions system validated at one of the dealers along with the addition of the FMF pipe.

Came home with some extra parts in a bag that apparently weren't needed . . .

The popping on deceleration was cleared up, and the throttle response off idle and at low throttle openings was much improved.

Between the pipe, validation, and addition of a KTM power parts rear disk guard, I think I spent around $800.

Disk guard came back from Big Bear with a few scratches on it but rear disk was fine

I want to do this!!! I hate the decel popping....

You can do this all yourself in about 15min. All you need is a bolt for your cylinder and some air hose caps, you can get both at local auto parts store for about $5 bucks. Made a huge difference and stopped the backfire.

[blakeNY9 0]

Obviously you can only control one lever on your left hand at a time, so you'll have to chose in that instant whether you want brake or clutch. The foot brake lever is also still available. I say you lose nothing and gain a lot, at least thats been my experience.

What would be killer is if somebody made a small little clutch lever the size of an old school hot start lever like the ones on a CRF / YZF thumper ... ya know that little tiny lever about 1/5th the size of your regular clutch lever you pull in to start while the bike is hot (aka after you crash). If I could have a tiny little clutch lever for my index finger (hydraulic of course) I could then use the other 3 fingers for the OX back break (non hydraulic so I could "feel" it more). Do you know if they make a tiny little clutch lever like this?

Mid-west Mountain Engineering makes a shorty easy pull clutch and brake levers. Check them out. I've used the clutch levers on two different bikes, much easier pull. Do have to be careful how you set them up when the Rekluse is installed. I can elaborate more later if need be.

http://www.midwestme.com/products.html