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Coolant ratio question

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Hi all. I have a 2012 DR-Z 400. As per the Suzuki Shop Manual I recently changed the brake fluid and coolant. Supposed to mix the coolant 50/50 with distiller water. I poured in exactly 50% coolant as per the system capacity, but was unable to get the other 50% of water in before the system was full. So my ratio is probably 80% coolant and 20% water.

Should I perform the entire operation again to get the ratios correct or would it be ok to run like it is now?

Many thanks in advance for your advice and input!

Charlie

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Remove it .

mix first then pour....

personally I buy the pre-diluted product called "COOL-AIDE" ...

you can find it at your motorcycle dealer.

its like11 bucks.

Also tilt the bike left and right so the bubbles and trapped air work there way up to the top so you can fill it completely.

I believe theres a air screw on the left side of the radiator on that bike.. Loosen that a lil bit while filling.then close it when done.

If you run un diluted coolant it will cause the bike to not cool properly.

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80% is kind of a lot. I usually mix mine 65% 35% just because it's harder to boil but 80% is kind of pushing it. Just drain out a few ounces and add water, it doesn't have to be perfect.

I use the peak long life stuff from Oreily Auto Parts, it's like 12$ a gallon and doesn't contain silicates, works fine in motos.

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Hi all. I have a 2012 DR-Z 400. As per the Suzuki Shop Manual I recently changed the brake fluid and coolant. Supposed to mix the coolant 50/50 with distiller water. I poured in exactly 50% coolant as per the system capacity, but was unable to get the other 50% of water in before the system was full. So my ratio is probably 80% coolant and 20% water.

Should I perform the entire operation again to get the ratios correct or would it be ok to run like it is now?

Many thanks in advance for your advice and input!

Charlie

I use Engine Ice in my bikes. It's ready to use (no mixing required :coolio: ), a liitle pricier than some others but, well worth it IMHO.

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Exactly! Agreed! I use Water Wetter (same as engine ice) and have for years in many bikes that see heavy abuse. Zero Issues!

Drain the "Coolant", this isnt 2007 and dump in the premixed Engine Ice or Water Wetter. It really does work.

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you can compare ingredients in prestone, peak, engine ice... they are all either etholyne glycol or propolyne glycol. They all have their ingredients listed on the bottle as well as the boiling point. Read the bottles, compare and decide if paying 3X for moto stuff makes sense.

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If its an emergency I just pee into the radiator.

Hopefully from a respectable distance.

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Like Spaugh said, drain a little, then add a little more water...

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XF + Waterless Racing Coolant

Racing Products introduces a new generation coolant XF+, the first of its kind Waterless Race Coolant. It is race proven and guaranteed to stop overheating and boil over in your racing 2-stroke and 4-stroke. And since it is waterless, not only does it out perform traditional coolants, but it is a "Lifetime" coolant which never needs seasonal changing. Besides superior boil over protection (-40°F to +375°F), XF+ operates at safer pressures which causes less stress on engine components, increasing their life and reliability. It prevents oxidation and erosion of the jacket metal, electrolysis and resulting contamination and fluid destruction. XF+ prevents cavitation and vapor hot spots that create non-uniform metal expansion rates resulting in seizure. XF+ also has reduced toxicity for the environment.

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XF + Waterless Racing Coolant

Racing Products introduces a new generation coolant XF+, the first of its kind Waterless Race Coolant. It is race proven and guaranteed to stop overheating and boil over in your racing 2-stroke and 4-stroke. And since it is waterless, not only does it out perform traditional coolants, but it is a "Lifetime" coolant which never needs seasonal changing. Besides superior boil over protection (-40°F to +375°F), XF+ operates at safer pressures which causes less stress on engine components, increasing their life and reliability. It prevents oxidation and erosion of the jacket metal, electrolysis and resulting contamination and fluid destruction. XF+ prevents cavitation and vapor hot spots that create non-uniform metal expansion rates resulting in seizure. XF+ also has reduced toxicity for the environment.

FYI for the original post and for all the others here.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/xf-waterless-race-coolant/

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Just my opinion, but if your bike is overheating there is something wrong with it that expensive boutique coolant can't fix.

As for the original post, drain what you've put into the bike into a clean container, add some water to the container and then fill up the bike. Yes, you'll have some extra....save it for when you go riding with bikeslut. He will need it. Don't worry if you're exactly 50/50, your motor won't blow up because of it.

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I used Evans for a long time- same stuff "waterless coolant".

Waterless coolant prevents coolant loss by reducing boilovers.

Now, critical thinking class- what's the problem?

Waterless coolant does not prevent overheating.

So- how is this a problem?

Because it is entirely possible to overheat one's motor without boiling over, and without other indications. I know, because I did it, and believe it was the cause of death for my last RFS motor. Got the bike so damn hot it actually DID boil over eventually, but I know it was running very hot for some time prior to the incident.

On the new bike, I run Engine Ice- let it boil over, thanks.

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Great advice and input, many thanks.

I'm having no issues whatsoever with overheating or any other problems. Bike runs like a top! Just doing preventative maintenance is all.

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add on and yes not a ratio answer, just for alternate education (ZipTy XF brand is relabled licensed Evans product). I use this stuff simply because its bullet proof. It's not a mask for other temperature issues, you must have your engine tuned properly always. Here is the link to the company for educational purposes.

http://www.evanscooling.com/

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