Husky TE250 - Need to lower it

[dirtdiva 0]

OK - for those of you who answered my cry for help on what bike to buy and offered up your knowledge - I have listened, processed, analyzed, researched, created a spreadsheet (just a tad OCD) and yes, I actually made my decision - A 2010 Husky TE 250 (so much for $$ concerns). Anyway - I am so in love with this bike and I knew it was the one for me as soon as our eyes met. The only problem, however, is that when I sit on the bike, my feet and the ground just don't seem to meet. Of course, the salesman assures me that height is no issue...... It seems my options are the Kouba Link, shaving the seat, and adjusting the SAG. My question is - Just how much can I reasonably expect the seat height to drop with these mods and is it reasonable to expect my 29" inseam legs to be able to touch the ground (preferably without wearing Lady Gaga platform boots)? Also, how much, if any, will these modifications alter the way the bike handles - both at speed and in tight turning situations? Anyone, anyone.......

Diane

[bikeslut 1]

As a "taller than avergae" guy, I can see where the urge to touch ground really wants to take over...

I would start with the seat, and see if that helps... You start with links and even worse sag, and you change the way that sweet little bike will handle. You can do it, but it will change it some, if not a lot.

See if fox can walk you through the seat shaving first, then ride it for a while...it may be enough in real world situations

Out of curiosity- why the 250 over the 310?

[Spaugh 1]

getting softer springs will make your bike lower and give you a plush ride. a lower seat is a good option too. wait on lowering links until you get correct springs. your manual should tell you what springs you need for your weight, error on the low side.

[Strega 0]

Diane congrats on the new bike!!!

[robertaccio 412]

Dirt diva,

The correct and best way to lower your bike is through a qualified suspension tech shop like this one. The downside is the that suspension removal is in most cases needed and shipping costs are involved.

the is from the shop of Les Tinius up north just as an FYI bit.Les is an expert with Sachs and Marzocchi equipment. Read below for some info about lowering, its a very good option and with our long travel machines there is alot of travel to play with.

http://www.lt-racing.com/html/suspensisuspension_topics.html

also FC does this service

http://www.factoryconnection.com/index2.htm

and I know that PC has changed things (new local name/arrangement) but from what I've heard they also do lowering and the shop is local

http://www.precisionconceptsracing.com/

R

PS the lower mod is fully reversable as well.

PPS your bike is the best of the best I've ridden 2 TXC250 versions it its lite and amazing, try to do the least impact on the chassis set up it is a very well balanced machine that has amazing handling (like a 125 2T)

[dsfox 0]

Congrats Diane.....that is so funny....the TE 250 was "My Dream Bike" for a very long time...I love them......sleek, sexy, high performance, light weight.....I think it will handle alot like your mx bike and you will be happy....Dirt Dame has a TE450..she's a good mechanic and knows bikes well, so could offer you good tips with your bike.....

As women, we don't post our "weight" generally but we can get away with some adjustments as we don't need as much suspension as others....anyway, I have lowered the sag and softened my compression/rebound, as well as shaved the seat....for my riding, this works great....more agressive folks and those who like to jump, don't like to do that.....

[dirt dame 561]

You can pull the front forks up an inch in the stanchions (beyond that, you would need some internal spacing) and have somebody install a spacer in the shock to lower the back. I recommend Bob Bell and Precision Concepts up in Riverside to do the work. They are very nice to deal with and are big on customer service. They did an excellent job of revalving my TE suspension. You can make a one day appointment also.

Lowering the bike more than a couple of inches can cause some problems, mostly decreasing ground clearance. Lowering the back means vevalving is in order.

Don't set your sag really soft to get the lowered height as this causes problems with the overall handling of the machine. Correct spring rates and correct sag settings are a must to get the optimum and safest ride out of your bike.

For your seat, there is not much you can do to make that lower. I installed the Gutsracing soft seat foam and a cover on my bike.

When you wear out the stock tires, use slightly lower profile tires to help lower the saddle height.

[dsfox 0]

I'm happy to help you with the seat...depends on the stock foam....on my kawasaki's I gained 2".(which is a huge help on seat height)....on the ktm about 1" (much less stock foam).....give me a call....

[robertaccio 412]

Take a look at the OEM selle delle valle seat,, there may not be much room to remove material, it is a minimalist seat construction.

I don't know why there have never been options in the moto world for options, "I would like my TE250 with the 2" lower suspension set up." Best of luck with your machine, its a real beauty.

[Joliet 0]

Does it need re-sprung? I am guessing they are sprung for a rider of about 175 lb. If you are not close to this weight, you need to get the proper rate springs in it. If it were me I would spring it properly, send the shock to LTRacing and have him shim the rear down an inch. Push the forks up in the clamps an inch and shave the seat. I would ask Mimi if the front springs are hard to do (perhaps with her help).

Armor it properly so that when there is no place to put your foot down, and you have to let it go to the ground, you can do that knowing the bike will be fine. It happens to everyone, no sense getting hurt trying to save it from falling, it's going to happen.

Congratulations on the purchase, look forward to riding with you. Ken

[kellymac530 0]

who was it that suggested the TE250

personally, and i know money is always an issue with MOST of us, but i am with robertacio. spend a few dollars and have the forks and shock professionally lowered 11/2 to 2 inches.

you want to lower the front and rear equally so as not to change the steering head angle which dramatically changes the handling...

the key any motorcycles cornering and stability characteristics is in the frames geometry. if you put on a kuoba link, that drops the rearend only, which leans the steering head angle farther back a few degrees, which slows down the nimbleness and quickness of the steering and can make the bike steer much heavier...

if the kuoba link lowers the rear about 1 inch, and if mimi is right you can push the forks up into the triple clamps about 1 inch, that will keep your steering head the right angle keeping your handling as the factory designed it.

you can take a degree wheel like these

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Measuring-Tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhcZar8i/R-100193539/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Measuring-Tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhcZar8i/R-100161689/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Measuring-Tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhcZar8i/R-100165800/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

check your head angle while the bike is sitting on the wheels in an up right position.

put the kuoba link on it, and then push the forks up in the tripleclamps until the head angle is back to stock angle...if you can accomplish this then the link is a good option...if not, send it back and spend the money and have a quality shop lower the fork and shock equally.

that will probably be 300 bucks or so...i could be wrong tho...economy has changed things lately.

i hope this helps.

major congrats on the new bike...they are bitchen

[kellymac530 0]

here is one link that discusses lowering

http://www.racetech.com/html_files/LOWERING_SUSPENSION.html

[robertaccio 412]

kelly good one with racetech as well as the others mentioned. Also good is that racetech also reccommends a company that specilizes in seat recontours. see further down in the tech article.

[robertaccio 412]

did i mention that this machine TE250 X-Lite,,,,,,,is the most awesome (DS legal) trail bike made at the moment. there is none better out of the box. great machine choice.

[dirtdiva 0]

OMG - You guys/gals are the BEST! This is all GREAT advice and I am taking it!!! Before I can lower it, however, I have to get it. After riding Corral Canyon today I decided to go to a local shop to sit on the bike with my riding boots on, rather than my flip flops, and low and behold there is a 2009 TE 250 sitting there with a much prettier price tag. So now here is my new "question of the day" - Do I take advantage of the less expensive 2009 version or spend the extra $$ (which I really don't have in the first place, hehe) for the 2010 version. Everything I researched was about the 2010 version and how great all the new changes are..... And to add one more variable, the shop also had a marked down 2009 TE 310 - should I consider that (even though my gut tells me to go with the lighter 250 - it has all the power I will really need - at least for the dirt, and I am so IN LOVE with this bike.) Would the 310 be better for pavement riding - worried you all will leave me in the dust when we hit the pavement

OK, I promise, once I have this bike and its dialed in - the only question you will get from me is "where and when are we riding!!!!"

Diane

[dirt dame 561]

If you think that you won't need a bunch of upgrades on 2009, don't spend the extra money on the newer model. Did you get to actually ride any of these models? I have heard that the 310 doesn't have too much more bottom end than the 250, but on the other hand, it shouldn't really weigh much more than the 250. Haven't looked at any of the newer models because I'm quite content with my 07 model. Flip a coin....

[robertaccio 412]

the "old" engine based machines are virtually bullet proof (up through 09) the weight and chassis is a little less "sharp" than the 10-11 x-lite models. The 250 and the 310 version of this bike (09) for DS and trail riding is very satisfactory and is an easy bike to ride, for your type riding the 09 310 is a wise choice, if the price is right you will not go wrong with this machine.

The 310 version of the "old" motor is very nice package and is probably a better overall package with the xtra cc.

The 10 and 11s basically use a 125 chassis with the all new 250cc and now for 11 all new 310 (lightest OEM 250cc 4 stroke engine made), it is a fully capable (with minor mods) competition/racing machine. It is a fantastic machine, but I am speaking from a different place, the 2 I have ridden were both TXC models and I dont think i ever rode them below the high rpm level (in the speed mode). The new 250 family is amazing and you have the benefit of owning the latest/newest model with the latest evolution engine, but I am sure it costs a bit more as well. And truthfully it rewards a more racy ride stance, see below

Here is Adam's expert level journalist 2010 x-lite TE250 test part 1

[kellymac530 0]

diva, i dont personally know enough about these specific models to help you make a decision on 09/10..

pros and cons to both bikes...make a list and weigh it out for yourself...

my thought on pro/cons

09

pro cons

cheaper buy in a little heavier

proven bullet proof lower resale value in the future

more mods/accesories older technology

available

10 pros cons

lighter not yet fully proven reliability

latest tech avail. higher buy in price

higher resale value MAY have new bike bugs to work out

make your own list and see where you are at...then make the decision that you know is right for YOU...

cant really go wrong with either year....best wishes dirtdiva...