piratemonkey 0 Posted January 19, 2009 I do have the channel-lock looking type of wrench that I tried first with no success. Part of the problem is that the location sucks. The filter is at the bottom and slightly recessed so trying to get leverage for twisting is nearly impossible. The ex (good at wrenching) owes me a favor so he said he'll swing by this week to help -- we may need to perform some sort of minor surgery to get it removed. I think shops overtighten filters and plugs because they're very afraid of anything backing out and then they're responsible for the cost of a new motor. It just frustrates the snot out of me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted January 19, 2009 Ironic. I was always taught that overtightening the oil filter could damage internal valving some have- resulting in engine damage. Go figure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted January 20, 2009 I do have the channel-lock looking type of wrench that I tried first with no success. Part of the problem is that the location sucks. The filter is at the bottom and slightly recessed so trying to get leverage for twisting is nearly impossible. The ex (good at wrenching) owes me a favor so he said he'll swing by this week to help -- we may need to perform some sort of minor surgery to get it removed. I think shops overtighten filters and plugs because they're very afraid of anything backing out and then they're responsible for the cost of a new motor. It just frustrates the snot out of me. I "think" the core of the filter is stronger material, and may allow you to get a better holding surface... it's getting rid of the shell that may be a problem... If you can't get it out, post again, and i'll come over and take a whack at it... and I mean that literally Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
piratemonkey 0 Posted January 20, 2009 Your resident Hamfist Mechanic brings news of great joy to the populace: The ex got the *#&@%$! filter off. He cursed a bit and had to put so much muscle into it that he actually lifted himself off the ground as he twisted, but he was victorious in the end. I will forever never ever ever let anyone else put the oil filter on my vehicle again. Ever. I feel a little spittle forming in the corner of my mouth just thinking about it. Thanks again to all who have offered to help (on this and the Husky problem, eventually to be addressed). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crawdaddy 96 Posted January 20, 2009 I will forever never ever ever let anyone else put the oil filter on my vehicle again. Ever. I feel a little spittle forming in the corner of my mouth just thinking about it. :hang1: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darylhunter 1 Posted January 21, 2009 On the last BBTR run back in June, I tipped over at the end of the John Bull trail and had a rock crack my oil filter cap right in the area of the same bolt on my TE-510 When picked up the bike and fired it up it was squirting arterial jets of oil about 6 ft. Pulled the bike off to the side of the trail and tried some JB Weld on the cap - no joy as the o-ring was cut too. Was able to get it down to a drip, but not good enough to continue on and road back to town. Bottom line, there's more pressure behind that cover / bolt than you think . . . Only other suggestion I could make is to take it to a machine shop rather than a bike repair shop. The machine shop guys have all kinds of tools and specialize in solving problems like this - and they're typically not all that expensive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 559 Posted January 21, 2009 I agree about the machine shop. If all else fails, some shops have an electro-disintegration machine that takes out the bolt without doing anything to the threads. The motor typically has to be out of the frame for this, or at least it used to, back in the eighties. Maybe the technology has evolved to where it is more articulated and the electrode tip can be pointed at any angle. This works when nothing else will get the bolt out. It was expensive then, probably more so now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zenosan 2 Posted January 21, 2009 I agree about the machine shop. If all else fails, some shops have an electro-disintegration machine that takes out the bolt without doing anything to the threads. The motor typically has to be out of the frame for this, or at least it used to, back in the eighties. Maybe the technology has evolved to where it is more articulated and the electrode tip can be pointed at any angle. This works when nothing else will get the bolt out. It was expensive then, probably more so now. I have used a welder in San Marcos on Twin Oaks Valley Road to do some tricky case and part welds. He is an old time welder and is very good at fabricating and repairing aluminum and other alloy welds. He is located on the right just north of Mission Road on Twin Oaks Valley. Can't remember the name of the shop but it is the only one in the area. Last time I used him he repaired a gear cased we busted open when hitting a rock on Black Mountain several years ago. The bike was as good as new when we were done with it. You can always have him reweld it and then retap it. Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joliet 0 Posted January 21, 2009 I think the newer Husky's thin magnesium cases are pretty tricky to work with, but I am sure there are those that can do it. Ken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zenosan 2 Posted January 21, 2009 I think the newer Husky's thin magnesium cases are pretty tricky to work with, but I am sure there are those that can do it. Ken In fact this was an older Husky magnesium case. Don't know how it compares to the new ones though. As I recall the guy only charged me about $30 the last time he did one. I will try to get the name of the shop the next time I go by. Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 406 Posted January 21, 2009 to all,, slow down,, this needs the secondary engine case cover removed, which may just expose the broken off shank to be removed with a vise grip if not the shank will be much more accessible for pilot drilling and ezout removal, these motors are quite simple to dis and reassemble. prolly all is needed is just the new case cover gasket. Best of luck and I really would not try to work from the outer cover body hole. R Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted January 21, 2009 to all,, slow down,, this needs the secondary engine case cover removed, which may just expose the broken off shank to be removed with a vise grip if not the shank will be much more accessible for pilot drilling and ezout removal, these motors are quite simple to dis and reassemble. prolly all is needed is just the new case cover gasket. Best of luck and I really would not try to work from the outer cover body hole. R I, for one, was under the impression it would require splitting the cases... but I also already posted my thought process... "I'm a no-talent hack" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KTMrad 508 Posted January 22, 2009 I agree about the machine shop. If all else fails, some shops have an electro-disintegration machine that takes out the bolt without doing anything to the threads. DirtDame, do you know of any shops that use this machine ? I have 2 broken bolts on the rear rack on my KTM640. I used an easy out on each bolt, and the easy out broke off inside the bolt, so now I can't drill out the easy outs, because it's as hard if not harder than a drill bit. BTW, I found this interesting article about breaking easy-outs....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KTMrad 508 Posted January 22, 2009 I found this about EDM.......the welding shop I've used before (the owner rides dirt bikes and has welded and straightened my 640 subframe), they have an EDM machine, which they call an Electro Arc Tap Remover.......I will be calling them Thursday. Jiffy Welding - El Cajon....619-448-6744 ELECTRIC DISCHARGE MACHINING ELECTRIC DISCHARGE MACHINING (EDM) is the only fast and efficient way of removing broken tools and fasteners. EDM will penetrate any material that will conduct electricity, capable of producing blind or through holes. Broken drills, taps, easy-outs, reamers and studs can be removed from military, aircraft, commercial and automotive parts. Taps and bolts from 0-80 to 3" diameter can be removed without damage to threads. Drills from .030 to 3" in diameter can be removed while maintaining size and depth. Pins, fittings, bearing races and etc. can be removed without damage to surrounding material. Holes can be pierced into or thru heat treated material while holding close diameter tolerances. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 559 Posted January 22, 2009 Glad you found something on the electro machines. I haven't had to have one put into service on anything for years now, but I used to use a guy up on Auto Park Way up here in Escondido. It's been so long, who knows if he's still around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikeslut 1 Posted January 22, 2009 Jiffy is right down the street from Trees Powdercoating Shop I have used them before, and got good service from them (custom cut "dies" in the shape of Shamu for cookies) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2Wheels 0 Posted April 23, 2009 USING LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT TO REMOVE SHEARED-OFF BOLT (Left-hand drill bits twist the opposite way from the standard ones so just drilling out the hole might loosen the stuck bolt) I found a sheared-off bolt in a sub frame I bought off Craigslist. I didn't notice it when I bought it. It was sheared off maybe 1/8" below the top of the bolt hole. The hole was about 1/4" wide so I guess it was around a 6 mm bolt. I used a spring-loaded centerpunch to mark the center of the sheared-off bolt as well as I could tell by eye balling it. Enlarged the centerpunch mark slightly with a right-hand 1/16 drill bit. Used 3/32 left-hand drill bit to start bigger hole. As soon as the left-hand drill bit started turning, so did the stuck bolt. It amazed me how easily it came out. Maybe the shock from the spring-loaded centerpunch loosened up the stuck bolt. This is the first time I've used a left-handed drill bit so I don't know whether it's usually this easy. I used a cheap set (Neiko) I bought at Amazon dot com for $15 including shipping. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 887 Posted April 23, 2009 Good call on the left handed drill bits. I've also seen them at AutoZone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2Wheels 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Good call on the left handed drill bits. I've also seen them at AutoZone. I didn't expect they'd be available locally. The ones I ordered on the internet came from Arizona and I got them in 2 business days. The spring-loaded centerpunch is also pretty much essential to start the hole in the center of the sheared-off bolt. I've seen them on the Harbor Freight catalogs that come in the mail. Not sure this would solve Pirate Money's problem - if that bolt is still stuck ... I'm just posting it more as a couple worthwhile items to have in your toolbox. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DigDug 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Good call on the left handed drill bits. I've also seen them at AutoZone. Right next to the left-handed monkey wrenches??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ozzy 0 Posted April 24, 2009 next to the muffler bearings? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2Wheels 0 Posted April 24, 2009 Right next to the left-handed monkey wrenches??? next to the muffler bearings? Seriously, guys. There really is such a thing as left handed drill bits. They twist in the opposite direction from standard drill bits so you have to have a reversing drill to use them. They're specially made for extracting stuck screws. Here's a link to a high-quality one: Vermont American (VER13462) Left-Handed Extractor Drill Bit 3/16 in. It's $7.96 for one drill bit. This is the cheap set I bought: http://www.amazon.com/13pc-Titanium-Left-H...0972&sr=8-3 It was $7.95 for a set of 13, but hey, it did the job and hopefully I won't have to use it that often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
