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What should I do? Help KTM 520 oil change

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Since I got my 02 520 a few months ago, I have not ridden it more then around the block a few times. So today I thought I would get some stuff done to be ready for the dirt.

First oil change. Loosen the main drain plug! Crap it must be torque to the moon. A couple taps with a hammer and came off, though the corners are a little rounded now.

The upper screen is to tight, I'm worried about rounding it off. The lower screen allen has been replace with a 10mm nut, same it is so tight I'm worried about it rounding too.

Should I try heat?? I don't want to screw them up, though they seem to by already. If I get them off I see they will need to be replace with new ones.

Kelly

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Any one know about the sockets that put the pressure more on the flat part of the bolt and not the corner?

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Any one know about the sockets that put the pressure more on the flat part of the bolt and not the corner?

I believe those were a Snap-On invention, but others may have them too.... I forget the name of them... they have "holes" in the corners of the sockets, so don't use the thinangles... I'm sure craftsman must have a knock-off by now...

tried an impact wrench? penetrating oil, and some taps of a hammer?

post-122-1250979915.jpg

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If I get them off I see they will need to be replace with new ones.

Vice Grip? - you're not gonna re-use'em anyway......lock on with vice grips and back'em out......then replace with proper bolts/set at proper torque......

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FIRST. Apply the socket to the screen plug and rap smartly on it with a mallet. This can break the tension and allow easier removal. You may wish a little heat, but it's an o-ring seal and you don't want to go too far. You are fortunate it's the 10mm nut- the factory provided an allen bolt that strips easily.

I'm happy to help if you wish to bring the bike by.

p

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If I get them off I see they will need to be replace with new ones.

Vice Grip? - you're not gonna re-use'em anyway......lock on with vice grips and back'em out......then replace with proper bolts/set at proper torque......

Ok I made some head way. Two down one to go. For the main plug the 13mm box wrench with a whack from the hummer took care of it.

The 13mm plug on the side near the shifter gave some problem. I took a 1/2 inch deep and hammered it on tight over the 13mm bolt head, then a few whacks with the hammer and then air impact gun took care of that one.

The 10mm on the bottom plug is now round. I tried the 13mm over it to get some good taps with the hammer and vice grips but they keep slipping off. I tried a few hits with a chisel on the big washer part but no budge.

Going to sears a little later to check out those sockets for rounded off nuts. What a pain. Now I have the day's to start riding with you guys.

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The 10mm on the bottom plug is now round. I tried the 13mm over it to get some good taps with the hammer and vice grips but they keep slipping off. I tried a few hits with a chisel on the big washer part but no budge.

Going to sears a little later to check out those sockets for rounded off nuts. What a pain. Now I have the day's to start riding with you guys.

On some of those rounded off bolt heads, if there is enough room, I get a die grinder in there and grind a deep slot all the way across the center of the bolt head. Then I take an impact driver and put a big slothead screw driver tip on it, stick in the slot and whack that driver a good one. It works for me.

I have one of those "funny" sockets that is supposed to fit everything. I haven't had real good success with it. You are welcome to borrow it and give it a try if you want.

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Thanks for all the support and words of encouragement. I almost gave up on that bottom one. I used heat, Aero Keroil oil, hammer, bigger hammer, chisel, punch, and vise grips.

DSCN5011.jpg

I will order 3 new plugs and o-rings tomorrow and start getting the new tires mounted. Look forward to getting on the trail we some of you.

Kelly

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I think you have only OEM as an option for the plug and the side screen cover, but the bottom use a brap. If you use OEM you will be doing this again. I use antisieze on all of them. The drain plug (rear of motor) does not use an oring, it uses a copper crush ring. Did you change the filters as well? Were the screens clean? My first oil change with my bike, the screens and filters had a goo that was like black peanut butter. Not a happy day. The previous owner had assured me the oil had been changed at the proper intervals. Riiiight.

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I think you have only OEM as an option for the plug and the side screen cover, but the bottom use a brap. If you use OEM you will be doing this again. I use antisieze on all of them. The drain plug (rear of motor) does not use an oring, it uses a copper crush ring. Did you change the filters as well? Were the screens clean? My first oil change with my bike, the screens and filters had a goo that was like black peanut butter. Not a happy day. The previous owner had assured me the oil had been changed at the proper intervals. Riiiight.

The oil out of the main drain looked pretty good and the two screens looked good also. I have not pulled the two main filters yet. I think the bottom plug must have been a Brap already with a 10mm head on it but still over tighten. I found the lower plug from STR Racing and it has a 13mm head.

51-05-2T.jpg

Here is the Brap plug with a 10mm head

drian-bolt.gif

Both $20 Unless they carry either aftermarket ones at All American, I will get what ever they have as well as the OEM for the other holes. I hope they stock the OEM ones, I will be up there tomorrow.

I will also look for a couple new sockets from Snap on.

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Sounds like loads of fun for you!!!

Make sure you get a good torque wrench to re-install those bolts. The trick is to make sure you torque them down and DON'T over tighten them no matter how loose they feel when the wrench clicks. I think the bottom screen is something like 7 ft-lbs - not one more!

Also, check the rear wheel chain adjuster bolts. (the ones that screw into the swingarm and press on the axle adjuster blocks). They are notorious for seizing up on you. Spin 'em out and apply anti-seize liberally. Also, check and make sure someone drilled some drain holes in the bottom of the swingarm to let the water drain out so it doesn't speed up those bolts seizing. KTMTalk has some pretty good threads on those darned bolts. I had lots of fun a few months back trying to get a stuck one out and re-tapped...

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"On some of those rounded off bolt heads, if there is enough room, I get a die grinder in there and grind a deep slot all the way across the center of the bolt head. Then I take an impact driver and put a big slothead screw driver tip on it, stick in the slot and whack that driver a good one. It works for me."

this is our fave method for stripped aircraft screws and bolts too,,,but we always managed to get them out using the biggest snap-on straight slot that has the hex built into the shaft by putting a box end wrench and even a pipe over the wrench for leverage. Good tech call DD!

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My suggestion......you can use an extension or something to slip over your tool so you can get better leverage, rather than beating on them with a hammer.

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Well hopefully this won't be the case any more. I'm on my way to see Brent at All American to get new plugs, he has the after market for the bottom also. I will use anti seize and not over torque them.

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