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San Diego Adventure Riders
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About TexasDualler

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    Impressive Poster
  • Birthday 04/14/1987

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    San Diego, CA
  1. 2010 990

    990's are a dry sump so a little chunking noise from the timing chain upon start up is normal and should go away after the oil starts flowing. Also check to make sure your oil level is normal, even a slightly low oil level will cause more timing chain noise from my experience.
  2. KTM Coolant

    Pretty sure mine was just water when I got it too
  3. 300 Top End Advice

    I believe Jeff also recommends using a .04 base gasket with his kit. Could compensate by using original .06 base gasket thickness.
  4. 300 Top End Advice

    Spoke with Millennium. About $300 for the repair plus round trip shipping but it’s a gamble if it’s repairable, the chip in the port being the concern. Then I would still need a new head and main power valve (also damaged). So roughly by my estimate somewhere between $700-750 if I go that route. Slavens kit that contains everything I would need and a new CDI for $900. And then I could sell my old CDI on eBay for a steal at $100 (I see several other used CDIs going for $170). Plus maybe sell my old cylinder to Millennium and come out the same or maybe a little ahead if I go this route. Or at the very least only 100ish bucks more for a power gain over the stock set up.
  5. 300 Top End Advice

    Any suggestions on what kind of solvent to use for flushing bottom end? Preferably something that won’t damage the crank seals.
  6. 300 Top End Advice

    I was looking at that earlier and seriously considering that kit now. Not a bad deal. Plus I was reading through Millennium Technology’s site and apparently they’ll buy junk cylinders so maybe I can get a little bit money out of it.
  7. 300 Top End Advice

    165hrs. 50:1 VP race gas and Redline oil. Cleaned air filter religiously, virtually after every ride. Used a few different filter oils (KTM brand Twin Air, No Toil, Uni) but I want to say I used Uni the most. Oiled the filter very thoroughly on both sides each time. Carb was always jetted per factory manual for conditions. Rode this bike everywhere. Single track, desert, couple dune trips, D37/38 races, rocky technical. Some days barely above idle. Other days wide open pinned. My best guess is the pin that’s supposed to keep the top ring from rotating came loose somehow and caused all the damage. Guess it just vibrated loose after all those hours. Not sure there’s anyway to prevent that other than changing out the piston more frequently. I’ve heard of people easily going over 150hrs with no problems but I guess they don’t ride as hard as me.
  8. 300 Top End Advice

    Upon further inspection of piston found the top ring wasn’t broken, the retaining pin was missing (fell out, came lose?) causing ring to rotate and resulting damage.
  9. 300 Top End Advice

    Cylinder is possibly beyond repair. Heavily scored and a sizable chip in one of the transfer ports. See for yourself: One of the piston rings is broke but it’s hard to say what started the terrible chain of events. Clearly some piece of metal made its way to the combustion chamber and was banging around in there for awhile. Aside from potentially needing a new cylinder if the original is beyond repair, my consern is there a bunch of shrapnel rattling around in the case. I couldn’t see any signs of damage to the crank or rod and everything is still tight and smooth but I can’t say for certain nothing is down there.
  10. 300 Top End Advice

    My ‘15 KTM 300xcw absolutely refuses to start anymore, unless someone tows it to the top of a big hill and it gets going about 20mph and you bump start it then keep it pinned otherwise it’ll sputter out and die. After checking everything else (spark, carb clean, fuel getting to carb, reed valves) decided to inspect the power valve thinking maybe it was stuck open. Checked it out and it moves freely. So since I had the pipe off I did a little inspection of the cylinder and to my dismay found some pretty heavy scoring. So if I’m not mistaken this is the cause of the failure to start and without a doubt not a good thing in general. Now my question is does anyone have any advice on where to get the cylinder machined? If it’s even possible to correct it. Then assuming it’s not too far gone and I get it machined, where’s the best place to get a top end kit? Thanks in advance for any input.
  11. Need help with a bike recovery Sunday.

    Big thanks to everyone involved. It would not have been possible without you. Truly a great community of riders here.
  12. Recommendations for Big Bike tires

    X2 on Mitas E07 Can get plenty of mileage out of it, smooth riding on pavement and surprisingly good traction even in deep sand.
  13. Golden Tyre 90/100-21 with Nitro-Mousse Results

    Spooned a GT fatty onto my 300 a couple years ago and have never used a different front tire since. FYI Shinko makes an exact copy (216MX?) of this tire that's a good amount cheaper if you're looking to save some money.