spazegun2213 36 Posted July 31, 2023 (edited) Well as I tear into my 500 I get to see just how many interesting things the previous owner did. Including use a long bolt to mount the subframe on the chain side of the bike. Normally this isn't a problem, but would explain the new chain the bike came with, because the old chain clearanced this long bolt. I removed it (because I busted the subframe) and marred the threads in the hole. With some investigation I think the hole can be retapped but my experience doing that is less than positive. Given the frame is threaded I'd rather toss some coin at someone that knows what they are doing and confident they can fix it. So does anyone have a good mobile mechanic I can call up? I could probably bring it to someone as well, but most shops are booked up as I've found out. Thanks Spaze Edited July 31, 2023 by spazegun2213 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSM8 407 Posted July 31, 2023 Is this Frame or SubFrame. Give us some pictures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spazegun2213 36 Posted August 1, 2023 15 hours ago, DSM8 said: Is this Frame or SubFrame. Give us some pictures. I'll shoot some tonight. The threaded part is the main steel orange KTM frame. The non threaded hole, is in the alu subframe. The subframe is relived for a coundersunk bolt. but its this bolt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted August 1, 2023 I through-bolt this. It requires trimming a bolt down a little and using a ss nylock nut on the chain side. Be sure to keep the bolt as short as possible, just barely getting through the nylon of the locknut. The chain will eventually beat the crap out of the nut and maybe part of the bolt, but it's easily changed. If left too long, the bolt will be damaged and then require cutting it off before backing it out of the frame to avoid damaging what's left of those threads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spazegun2213 36 Posted August 1, 2023 3 hours ago, paulmbowers said: I through-bolt this. It requires trimming a bolt down a little and using a ss nylock nut on the chain side. Be sure to keep the bolt as short as possible, just barely getting through the nylon of the locknut. The chain will eventually beat the crap out of the nut and maybe part of the bolt, but it's easily changed. If left too long, the bolt will be damaged and then require cutting it off before backing it out of the frame to avoid damaging what's left of those threads. Yup, the chain ate the long bolt and just pulled it out without looking (I figured KTM would engineer and install the bolt of a correct length?) is there room? did you just "invert" the locknut so you nylon to engage first? I assume you just ground most of the rest of the nut off to make sure the chain doesn't eat it. I'd still love to have someone run a tap through the hole in the frame... just in case. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted August 1, 2023 2 minutes ago, spazegun2213 said: Yup, the chain ate the long bolt and just pulled it out without looking (I figured KTM would engineer and install the bolt of a correct length?) is there room? did you just "invert" the locknut so you nylon to engage first? I assume you just ground most of the rest of the nut off to make sure the chain doesn't eat it. I'd still love to have someone run a tap through the hole in the frame... just in case. You really don't want to use a tap, you want to use a thread chaser. A tap will cut new threads- not ideal. Here's what I use- very inexpensive. Sure, KTM might have used the right size bolt, but the bike was used and these bolts are often replaced. No, I just used the nut as presented- I want it to protect the bolt. And the top is rounded- almost "crowned" so I'm hoping the chain will bounce off rather than catch. And it's been working for years. I just made sure the bolt did not protrude beyond the top of the nut. I should point out I'm running a 15t front sprocket, which MIGHT provide a bit more clearance up there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSM8 407 Posted August 2, 2023 That is an ideal repair for a timcert better than a helicoil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 963 Posted August 2, 2023 I don't have any experience with this particular bolt, but I hate to say this: Paul Bowers is right. A thread chaser will work great in this situation. If you have a tap, it can be used to clean threads but a thread chaser is the best tool. Even an old bolt that has had a hacksaw run across the threads works awesome if you're into farm solutions. I think the nut over the end of the threads sounds like a pretty good way to help protect the threads. The Helicoil vs TimeSert debate is not necessary yet. One is not really better than the other, they both have their time and place. Helicoils are used extensively throughout aviation, which tells me that they are trusted in extreme situations. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted August 2, 2023 4 hours ago, tntmo said: but I hate to say this: Paul M Bowers is right. 😉 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bfar33 176 Posted August 3, 2023 Tntmo is right (for saying paulmbowers is right) Thread chaser would probably work fine, if buying a tap I'd suggest a roll tap instead of a cut tap, and plug or bottoming instead of a taper tap to decrease chances of getting cross-threaded on the start. Oil'er up either way. Let me know when the timesert vs helicoil fight starts! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSM8 407 Posted August 3, 2023 They both do the job, I prefer the timecert if it is something that is soft (AL) or thin walled. Again personal preference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
