Wintyfresh 46 Posted February 11, 2015 Here are the custom fuel/ignition maps I've found so far. Yamaha Maps: Phil Andrews (New Zealand youtuber) and GYTR/FMF Maps: Jay Marmont Map: FI -1 +3 -2 +3 +4 -3 -2 -3 -2 IG +2 +2 +2 +2 +4 +2 +2 +4 +4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted February 17, 2015 Just Gas Tanks is backordered on the Clake Tanks for 3 weeks. They have the Safari 4 gallon tanks in stock but only Translucent Clear (which tends to fade into piss color yellow too soon imho), Blue or Black. Safari White won't arrive from Australia until end of March (allegedly). Hmm…. what to do what to do. Austin at JGT said that you cannot see the fuel level on the Safari White Tank so it doen't make much difference between White and Blue. 07-11 Safari Translucent 07-11 Safari Blue front and Safari Translucent Rear Safari White (on a blue Husaberg) Also: Blue, Black or Bare Aluminum Unabiker Rad Guards…. These superficial decisions are making me question if I'm a moto diva. Hey Winty, if you or somebody else could clue me into FI Tuning Theory 101 that would be awesome. Any good articles to read? How do the variables of ignition and fuel correlate or react inversely at different rpms? I have what I believe to be the correct theory in my mind but then see guys posting mapping suggestions that contradict my thoughts. Ignition retarding or advancing does what? Fuel restriction or addition does what? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PastaPilot 17 Posted February 17, 2015 Follow YamahaTechAcademy on YouTube for the best info. Bare. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted February 18, 2015 Right now I'm just playing with other peoples maps. Swapped over to the motocross map this weekend and I'm loving it, big power across the range. Saw 78 miles before the fuel light came on running Oriflamme, Pinyon, Sandstone and the S2 so I'd guess a little over 30mpg. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted February 18, 2015 Follow YamahaTechAcademy on YouTube for the best info. Bare. Doh, I'll rewatch that video again. Thanks for the link. I'll probably look to smooth out the power down low for weaving through the tight stuff then open it up at higher rpms to let her rip! Granted these are different radiator guards than the Unabikers but the bare aluminum ones do look good on the WR. Now if I could only make up my mind on what color tank - buy a blue/black/translucent one tomorrow or wait until end of March (allegedly) for a white one... These look to be the same bare aluminum ones but they look nearly black in the shadow of the tank. Check out the Yamaha fanny pack on the dude to the left! Apparently the blonde Aussie ladies like the DubyARRs as well! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted February 18, 2015 I ordered one of the Trail Jammer clutch cover guards for my 250 Yammie and possibly another blue bike that's in my garage... These guards should help protect the magnesium cover. TrophyHunter has installed one on his WR450 as well. I ordered through ADVrider and it shipped to my door for $50 +$3.50 paypal fee. I'll install mine on the 250 before the Desert Dash. I got it in bare aluminum and won't be putting the TJ sticker logo on it as I think it looks mo bettah plain. Here are some pics of the product and install on an ADVrider WR450 as I haven't opened the envelope yet. It looks like this guy has put his WR through the ringer - he did 5MOH on it and that ride prompted the purchase of the TJ guard. Mas Silicone Por Favor Senor Looks like the dude lost/cut his rear hydraulic brake sensor wire somewhere lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted February 18, 2015 Trailjammer case saver ordered, pity it won't be here 'til after the dash. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted March 12, 2015 Just a quick update since mileage had been one of my main concerns about the bike; for Death Valley I kept the motocross map but stepped up to a 14 tooth countersprocket and averaged 43.7 mpg. I imagine reverting back to a leaner map (or just the zeroed competition ecu) would improve this further, but at this point I'm pretty happy with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted March 13, 2015 That is a good improvement in mileage. So, 3 gallon IMS tank or one of the 4 gallon Clarke or Safari tanks? Hmmmmmm That's the next big dilemma did you install the TrailJammer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted March 13, 2015 I'm happy with the 3 gallon IMS and optional Rotopax, without the latter I'd want a 4 gallon tank. Trailjammer's installed, fortunately haven't tested it yet but the clutch cover was kinda beat up after desert dash. Next up, rekluse and left hand rear brake installation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeNY9 0 Posted March 14, 2015 I'm happy with the 3 gallon IMS and optional Rotopax, without the latter I'd want a 4 gallon tank. Trailjammer's installed, fortunately haven't tested it yet but the clutch cover was kinda beat up after desert dash. Next up, rekluse and left hand rear brake installation. What LHRB did you go with? Take a look at Ox-Brake. http://www.oxbrake.com/ I have one on both my 300 and 500. Super easy install and half the price of Rekluse LHRB. I had fits bleeding the Rekluse LHRB to function right so I returned it. Others had better luck, but I threw in the towel. Ox-Brake, no fluids to mess with, run the cable and done. No affiliation yada yada, just a happy user. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted March 14, 2015 I went with the rekluse which is just a rebadged Magura, what does the ox brake cable connect to? [Edit: Doesn't look like ox makes a brake for Yamahas] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeNY9 0 Posted March 16, 2015 I went with the rekluse which is just a rebadged Magura, what does the ox brake cable connect to? [Edit: Doesn't look like ox makes a brake for Yamahas] Bummer. You add a lever arm off the rear of the foot brake pedal. Works great! You could give him a call or email, really nice guy, maybe he's on the fence of making a cable for the new WR's and just needs your request to put him over the edge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted March 17, 2015 Stock vs Comp ECU - hey Winty, I think it's time I trade you some brew for a lil map testing time with your Tuner Exhaust - stock rubber plunger thingy removed Stock exhaust tip - not the GYTR insert. The throttle stop screw seems like a royal pain to access - I think the stock long bolt would be noticeable if the stop was still installed.. Rad Equalizer Cush Hub on DID DirtStar rim - should take some of the snap / lash from the driveline and smooth the bike out. Hopefully it helps save the transmission from the trauma of braaap'n A Bib Mousse, fresh rubber and Ironman Sprocket would be the most awesome (and pricey) rear wheel setup ever Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted March 18, 2015 Whenever you want to borrow it, either Encinitas or my work in Mira Mesa. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted March 25, 2015 Can a 14 tooth front sprocket fit the stock 13 tooth case guard? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted March 25, 2015 Yep, I didn't remove or file down anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dress4Less 162 Posted March 25, 2015 Can a 14 tooth front sprocket fit the stock 13 tooth case guard? I run a 15 tooth front sprocket on my WR for the Dez...pretty sure it has the stock case guard but, not positive 'bout that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted March 27, 2015 Can a 14 tooth front sprocket fit the stock 13 tooth case guard? I run a 15 tooth front sprocket on my WR for the Dez...pretty sure it has the stock case guard but, not positive 'bout that. Thanks for the info - I'll have to check the clearance on my '05. I have a 14t on the 2006 wr250f and it apparently rubbed the stock case guard (fit for a 13t) at some point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted March 27, 2015 Does your WR seem to run hot or is that just me? I just got back from a ride in shorts on my WR250f and then the WR450f and the 450 practically singes my right leg while the 250 is nice and cool. What gives? These things seem to get universally positive reviews.. $170 tho one guy on RMATV reviews said his 2012 WR would run 210-215F before the cooler and then it dropped to 170F after... ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted March 27, 2015 Yes, at low speeds especially. Looking to fit a 4" Spal fan to my radiator, have considered the Supercooler as well. Dealership co2 adjustment can help at idle, adding fuel helps for the rest of the powerband. That said I've never had any issues with the bike WFO, it's slow hillclimbs in 1st gear slipping the clutch where it gets hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted April 25, 2015 Winty did you pick up the Supercooler? I've yet to install mine. I'm running the Trail Jammer Clutch Cover Guard, Unabiker Rad Guards and Cycra Handguards I could fill my IMS tank to 3.1 gallons. I got 135 miles on her with stock gearing (street riding at mellow baja speed). I installed my RAD Cush Hub and it definitely smooths out the bike on tarmac. Great mod so far but $pendy. Time for another ride! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted April 25, 2015 Dress4Less, tell me about your '05 WR. What gearing are you running, what kind of MPG do you get and how many miles in your tank? What skidplate and rad guard do you use? I think I may have asked before but do you have the stock OEM exhaust by chance? Let's see a pic of it on the trail! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PastaPilot 17 Posted April 25, 2015 .... said his 2012 WR would run 210-215F before the cooler.... That's not exactly a bad thing. .... and then it dropped to 170F after... ?? That's not necessarily a good thing. Yamaha designed the bike to operate at a certain temperature range and that may in fact be a 200F water temp . My car, as do most others, has a 190F thermostat. I've read stories about folks modifying bikes and getting lower operating temps that screwed with the ignition and fuel delivery. The problems they had is the ECU stayed in the "warm up" mode as it never got to proper temp. Things to consider. Did that reviewer at RMATV happen to state his test conditions? Was he riding different terrain at lower ambient temp? What other mods were done? Changed coolant? Not saying the Boyesen pump isn't an improvement to stock, but is it necessary? My YZ has a different engine yes, but the pumps have to be similar if not identical and it has smaller radiators than your WRs. I don't feel it NEEDS additional cooling. I ride primarily low speed clutch heavy terrain. Whewn it gets hot, I ride faster. Problem solved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted April 29, 2015 Pasta, thanks for the reply - you bring up some good points. Do you have stock coolant in your YZ ? I know I know, another coolant/oil/tire thread lol. I rode the 2012 back to back with the 2005. I have the 2012 tuned for "hardpack" traction which lowers the hit at the bottom but gives full power at higher rpm. Combined with the cush wheel, the 2012 is super smooth on the tarmac and has a nice, predictable power band. The 2005 packs some punch and is pretty fun - makes you want to twist the throttle and go fast ha. Same motor, different tunes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
