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2012-10-11160132.jpg

I forgot to include the Trailtech kickstand that is just barely visible in the above photo.

The next mods will be adding a coolant recovery bottle, a FIM/AMA noise legal and USFS approved spark arrestor and handgaurds.

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Jon ,

looks like you're doing all the good offroad mods, that bike is great base for an offroad weapon for sure (follow AM-Pro racing for tips and ideas)

http://www.amproyamaha.com/.

FYI Jon I think you are ready hip to this, but to add to discussion, 18" 19" tire have basically the same OD, the main reason that MX uses 19s is for less squirmy sidewall flex, a more solid/knife edge connection to the ground, same reason road going "race" cars use those ultra low profile tires (but most street guys have them there for that "cool" look).

18s are nice for offroad to allow for more tire "wrap" around hard edged obstacles, the air gap to rim space giving more HSC compliance and allowing for more lee way in tire pressure choice (read going low if you like).

But I know of few fast mx guys that just keep their 19s with HD tubes and run them at the track and in the field as well.

Your choice of 12 18 with Mousses is the way to go. You can always sell the 19 in a minute to the SoCal MX crowd. See ya soon on the trail.RN

PS make sure to get your spring rates dialed, pri-1. (the Race Tech charts are a great resource and usually are right on (for me they have always worked spot on) to get your proper sag sets without the guess work)

PS I really think at our skill level the slight balance issue on these Yams will not really show, those guys (Davi etc) are riding at 100x the level that even local pros and experts ride, where a couple mm here and there can make the difference between 1st and 5th place (slide the forks up a few mm and ride!).

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250to270.jpg

Out with the old 250mm and in with the new 270mm.

Once you ride with oversized rotors, you'll never go back. The 250mm might work for this bike (I've read otherwise) but after the last ride with the 5,000' elevation drop on 8 miles of singletrack, I'll take mine supersized, with cooling fins.

Did you ever put oversized rotors on the DRZ or did you find those brakes adequate? I found this kit made by ProFactoryHoses with offices in Oklahoma DRZ400 oversized front brake rotors

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I did very little work on the DR-Z when I had it. I hardly ever even rode it and probably never should have bought it in the first place. The brakes worked, but like most of the bike, it wasn't awe inspiring.

I think the factory brakes might have been good enough on the new "why zed" but looking at the massive Braking rotors on my Aprilia and the dinky rotors that came on the "zinger" I just had to swap it. The Aprilia's Nissin/Braking combination has never ceased to amaze me with the stopping power and "white knuckle time to change your shorts" panic stops still under complete control. If I can replicate a majority of that awesomeness for the Yamaha with the low buck rotors I bought I'll be very, very happy. So far I'm quite impressed with the quality of all of the Tusk parts that I have. We shall see how they hold up to trail abuse.

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Are you running SS braided lines on the 450f?

I'll be replacing my front pads this season and looking at options. $50 for a Galfer SS line from thumpertalk for the DRZ seems like a good deal to me.

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Because I plan to add a headlight I had to change the shorter motocross brakeline to a longer offroad style. I ordered the Tusk brand braided stainless for the WR450F. I put it on last night with the Cycra Pro Bend Composite hand gaurds and then F-ed around with it for two hours trying to get the brake fluid filled and bled. Good times.

You're more than welcome to come up anytime this afternoon and shoot the shi..breeze. I'll be in the garage again futzing with the brakes and other things.

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this is a NICE bike! im also curious about the local enduro races. who puts them on? where do they race, and where can i find info on them? again that is a sweet bike you got!

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Thanks Rob. Robertaccio is the guy to ask about the local races. I haven't signed up for anything yet but will be getting on it soon.

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550542_4414985767119_203566137_n.jpg

Break in ride today. Overall it went well. She had a tendency to flame out on me. Hopefully just new bike tightness in the engine that'll go away after some use. Suspension is a bit firm in the forks, but the shock felt great. I haven't done a single thing to the susp yet. I do miss the rubber bushing handlebar mounts that the Aprilia has. I might have to look into a new top clamp.

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Got caught up with stuff and couldn't make it up to check out your bike but I did find these vids. Thought you would enjoy em

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"Face-Palm"

I finally picked up the Yamaha GYTR Power Tuner to tweak the fuel and ignition of the WhyZed. The previous owner mentioned only riding it once and not doing anything to it but changing the oil* so I assumed the bike would be running the stock numbers. I was wrong, the GYTR racing map was uploaded to the ECU. The GYTR map is intended to be used in conjunction with the GYTR high flow cylinder head, high lift racing cams, high compression piston and full length exhaust.

"face-palm"

Why would anyone install mapping like that on a showroom stock bike? Did PO do it or did the dealer, North County Yamaha?

SMH

The Power Tuner can also be used to read and reset the engine run time. I was pleased to see the meter was at 8 hours and 16 mins. That includes at least 5 ride days that I've had on it. Not bad for a used bike.

Next week I'll be doing a test and tune day at Lark Canyon to play around with the mapping and suspension. I'll post up in Informal Rides section when I pick a day.

* PO mentioned changing the oil, I thought he said something along the lines of "drain here and fill here with 2 quarts". That didn't seem right and sure wasn't. The bike runs a dry sump oil system and has two drains. When refilling it's 1 liter with new oil filter, 1 quart without.

When I pulled the oil plugs, I measured almost 2.5 quarts of oil. *Shaking my head* At least it didn't run for long with that much oil in it. The mysteries of buying used make a strong argument for buying new.

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Leave the extra oil in her. We will just "burn" it off in Idaho! One other thing... you need to mount up a 20 gallon fuel tank so I wont have to carry so much...!!! Brilliant right?!

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Leave the extra oil in her. We will just "burn" it off in Idaho! One other thing... you need to mount up a 20 gallon fuel tank so I wont have to carry so much...!!! Brilliant right?!

I was expecting YOU to carry MY extra fuel. That's why You bought a KTM right? All those big aftermarket tanks?

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Leave the extra oil in her. We will just "burn" it off in Idaho! One other thing... you need to mount up a 20 gallon fuel tank so I wont have to carry so much...!!! Brilliant right?!

I was expecting YOU to carry MY extra fuel. That's why You bought a KTM right? All those big aftermarket tanks?

I'm all over it! I'll be sporting the 6.3 gal. Did you see on the site where they also carry an extra bladder of fuel (2 gal) around their neck. I've also found a quality folding saw that I'll be ordering shortly. Its on like Its on man!

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Went out to Jamul CalVMX track today.

I had a good time playing with the GYTR Power Tuner. It's amazing how much can be done with the EFI tuning. I was able to change the bike from pedestrian runabout to fire breathing dragster.

I'll need to play with it some more after I get my suspension done and figure out a line closer to pedestrian on the bottom and some dragster up top.

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"soft" and "smooth" power will get you through terrain easier/ with less fatigue, which = faster OA. And to the finish of any ride.

Vic I found one of the best xtra fuel carriers are my used maxima oil containers, they have the built in handle to put onto your belt, done that many times in Mex and even during a Nat H&H that had a long loop.

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fire breathing dragster.

Perhaps I should rewrite this as the spark arrestor wouldn't allow for any fire to be breathed.

Roberto,

The track was like riding on dust covered concrete. It was very slick and nearly impossible to accelerate hard or brake late into corners. The mapping that I actually enjoyed riding the track with the most really took the hit out of it all. I could tell I was faster on those few laps. That might be the mapping that I load up for the next trail ride. I'll play with that, flip some numbers here and there with the fuel and ignition and see how it works.

I know what you're saying about smooth is less fatiguing but I actually find that I like the bike being a little more snorty. Like taming a bull. To an extent of course. The way I got it with the GYTR map and the last dragster setting I used was the programming for Jay Marmont. Both are WAY too much for trail riding. It's amazing that I can dial in the HP that easily. Finding the balance is going to take time.

In other news I dropped the bike off with Suspension 101 yesterday. Springs and kinder/gentler valving is on the way. :good:

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S-101 will be the best mod you've done to date (as long as he the good magic valve stack numbers) anyway springs alone will get you up in the travel and into proper sag spec balance. much better ergos and bike balance.

Jay Marmont, world class level SX/mx rider?......that map must be be almost stupid at our ammie level and for trail riding.

PS talking ergos I pulled my 30in bars off installe std 31.5s and flipped bar risers to the up side to raise the bars @ 1" higher, so about 1.5 " wider 1" higher, will do more riding this weekend to see how I like the more open cockpit and the higher bars for climbing.

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Jay Marmont, world class level SX/mx rider?......that map must be be almost stupid at our ammie level and for trail riding.

That's the guy. His FI tuning was published in a magazine and placed in the tuning thread on Thumpertalk. I just wanted to try out the different maps and play around with the features that are available.

The next time we ride I'll be glad to give a Jekyll and Hyde demonstration.

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2013-02-24093005.jpg

Update on the bike after Soboba. I had a blast! There was a huge turnout for the ride. I've never seen that many dirtbikes in one place before, but once on the trails it wasn't too bad at all. A few bottlenecks of course but nothing like the hour long wait I've heard about. I met a group from Portland, OR and another solo rider from Texas. Quite a big draw.

The Suspension 101 reworked Speed Sensative System forks and shock are SOOO MUCH better. That was expected with proper springs alone, but with the new valving installed it really works great now in the small amount of desert riding I've done and really well at Soboba on the tight singletrack.

I installed a really tall set of handlebars just before the Desert Dash, Renthal Ricky Carmichael High Bend. The taller bars combined with the new susp made the riding experience worlds better. No more sore hands after a few hours of riding. Next order of business will be the larger tank and a taller seat.

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I just replace some Protaper Carmichael bars on the DR350. They did not seem that high, but the 3" rox risers did the trick.

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Regarding the EFI

So far I've tried a most of the maps on TT and my favorite right now is the "Map for Improved Drivability" from Yamaha.

I'll likely play around with the out of the box "drivability" map to get a little more power up top for when I want to rip 5th gear power wheelies down the fire roads. The "woods" map was good, but all the extra fuel in the lower RPM and throttle positions killed the range.

I find it oddly peculiar that the Yamaha sourced maps reduce fuel and add ignition to remove the low rpm bark and smooth the power and all the other magazine and tester maps add fuel and remove ignition.

http://forum.backupot.com/Smileys/default/chin_scratch.gif

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