Audible 0 Posted June 3, 2010 Need to know how to wire truck to charge battery for winch on boat trailer. Any sparky-guys here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted June 3, 2010 Sure. Just run a big fat wire (like a No 8 or 10 or better) from the positive battery post on the truck to the positive battery post on the winch battery. Probably a good idea to put a quick disconnect somewhere. I'd also use the same gauge wire to connect a SOLID chassis ground from the truck to the winch battery as well. No, I wouldn't rely on the ground wire for the lights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DigDug 0 Posted June 3, 2010 My toyhauler batteries charge from my truck when hooked up. There's a hot wire in in the trailer connector of most heavy-duty trucks which are designed for towing, that is there for just this purpose. On my Chevy, I had to install a huge honking fuse (yes that's the technical term for it) under the hood in the fuse block (the fuse came with the truck when I bought it new - not installed, but in the glove box with the brake controller wiring pigtail). It depends on your truck and your trailer wiring. Otherwise do what FN suggests.. run a big honking wire (yes that's the technical term for it) straight from the battery back. I'd probably put a some sort of fuse in there too (yes - a huge honking fuse). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zenosan 2 Posted June 3, 2010 Why do you need a separate battery for just the winch? On my Jeep the winch hooks directly to the car battery. Why not run Fakey's big fat honking wire (with a fuse of course) from your truck battery to the trailer winch? Even a set of jumper cables could operate the winch. My winch can be moved to the back of the Jeep to mount into the rear reciever, then hooks up with long (Grand Cherokee) jumper cables. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted June 3, 2010 Guys, let's not confuse our friend here. Clearly, the big honking wire goes to the horn. And yes, put a large fuse close to the battery to protect the circuit all the way back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zenosan 2 Posted June 3, 2010 Guys, let's not confuse our friend here. Clearly, the big honking wire goes to the horn.And yes, put a large fuse close to the battery to protect the circuit all the way back. Well....if we confuse him too much he might wince. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ADV Bum 205 Posted June 3, 2010 It should already charge as Doug stated. Maybe battery is dead. On my dump trailer I disconnect the battery when not in use. Dead batteries have not been a problem since. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DigDug 0 Posted June 4, 2010 It should already charge as Doug stated. Maybe battery is dead. On my dump trailer I disconnect the battery when not in use. Dead batteries have not been a problem since. I suspect the electric winch is a custom upgrade from the hand crank. In which case he'll have to do some custom wiring. Also, if your lights plug in with just the flat, four-pronged wire - you won't have the 12V hot lead. You'll need to convert to the round, RV-type plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
starpal2 0 Posted June 4, 2010 you need to be careful when adding a battery to the charging circuit of your truck. the alternator is only rated to put out so much and as you get closer to that limit and then past it the life of the alternator goes down and eventually it just dies and may take other components with it. your best bet is to wire the winch to be powered buy the truck and just have a switch to use the batter if in the event you sell the boat. to would be fairly simple with a trip to any automotive or electrical store for some components. if need be im always down to help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hoss314 0 Posted June 4, 2010 When I had my boat, there was a launch process I had to remember every time I launched. Unplug the trailer wiring!! That being said....it is also hard to remember when you have just moments to launch and there are people waiting on you. If your trailer is wired with a flat four.....I would splice into the running light wire (on the trailer harness) and connect to the positive end of the battery. Use the same gauge wire as your trailer wiring harness. That way during transport to the lake, bay or wherever....keep your running lights on and your battery will charge, one less wire to remove when "unhooking" from truck. Only issue that may come up is feedback depending on how your ground is set up on your trailer. If you install the wire to your positive post and your running lights illuminate on the trailer you will need a diode inline (cheap at radio shack), switch, or can go really crazy using a relay. Diodes are easiest....they make a "one way" street for current. This set up will only work to keep a charged battery charged. It will not work for an old weak battery or one that is the wrong "size" for the winch you have installed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kellymac530 0 Posted June 4, 2010 most modern trucks have large enough alternators to keep a second battery topped off, but not enough to charge a dead battery. always make sure you put a full charge on the winch battery before you go out. i disagree with wiring the winch to the truck and eliminating the trailer battery, i disconnect my trailer lights plug from my truck when launching so i dont blow fuses and have to drive home without tail lights. run an 8gauge wire from your truck battery back to the bumper, make some kind of quick disconnect, use a hard wired gound wire also with a disconnect. on the other side of the disconnect wire the 8 g and the ground to the trailer battery. done deal, you keep your trailer battery charge topped of while driving, you can disconnect to protect your truck when in the water, and still have a full battery for the winch..................... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Audible 0 Posted June 4, 2010 Thanks. Have battery on Deep-Cycle/trickle charge while at work today. Should be good to get boat out of the water tomorrow. Found out that my 2004 V-6 Tocoma 4-door is only rated for 5000lbs-max and boat/trailer comes out to 6000lbs. A good friend's 2500 truck is already wired...so for tomorrow we are good. Time to shop for a 2500 Diesel truck (brand TBD). Will need anyway next year for toy hauler! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
