Steering Head Inner Race Removal Tools

[boat440 0]

On the last ride I noticed the steering on my trusty DRZ400 was quite notchy. I removed the Scott's Steering Damper to the same effect. Meaning the once smooth circular side-to-side movement had become non-uniform, jerky and nearly difficult to move.

I guess after >7 years of dependable service (it's a 2001), it was time to inspect and lubricate the steering head bearing. (I believe I cleaned/lubricated them when I installed the Scott's Damper over 5 years past, oh well).

Upon inspection the taper needle bearings were rusted, did not ride smoothly and were pitted. Furthermore the upper and lower inner races exhibited similar characteristics including small wear grooves permanently laced into the once smooth 60 Rockwell case-harden races.

So after spending $86.10 plus tax on some new NTN bearings (Escondido Cycle Center had them in stock), I am off to remove the inner race bearings.

It appears the races are tightly press fit into the steering head (which they should be). After several futile tries (gently) with a hammer/screwdriver, I realized I need a tool made for the job. It appears a bearing race removal tool of some sort is needed. Before I use the Gorilla tactic (which never works) and wack this thing hard, I thought I might get some additional opinions. It would be ashame to put the new bearings in without changing the races. I've attached a picture of the inner race.

1. Does anyone know if a tool of this type exists?

2. What are your experiences with this type of repair?

3. Where I can borrow one? I'd gladly pay for the usage?

4. Do any of the local shops loan out tools(highly unlikely)?

Thanks for your inputs.

[dirt dame 561]

Rocky Mountain ATV/MC sells one for about 40 bucks, I think. That will work on the one in your frame. The other one on the stem, I remove using a small bearing remover and a press. Sometimes heating the race with a torch will make them come off fairly easily.

[tlking6 0]

On the last ride I noticed the steering on my trusty DRZ400 was quite notchy. I removed the Scott's Steering Damper to the same effect. Meaning the once smooth circular side-to-side movement had become non-uniform, jerky and nearly difficult to move.

I guess after >7 years of dependable service (it's a 2001), it was time to inspect and lubricate the steering head bearing. (I believe I cleaned/lubricated them when I installed the Scott's Damper over 5 years past, oh well).

Upon inspection the taper needle bearings were rusted, did not ride smoothly and were pitted. Furthermore the upper and lower inner races exhibited similar characteristics including small wear grooves permanently laced into the once smooth 60 Rockwell case-harden races.

So after spending $86.10 plus tax on some new NTN bearings (Escondido Cycle Center had them in stock), I am off to remove the inner race bearings.

It appears the races are tightly press fit into the steering head (which they should be). After several futile tries (gently) with a hammer/screwdriver, I realized I need a tool made for the job. It appears a bearing race removal tool of some sort is needed. Before I use the Gorilla tactic (which never works) and wack this thing hard, I thought I might get some additional opinions. It would be ashame to put the new bearings in without changing the races. I've attached a picture of the inner race.

1. Does anyone know if a tool of this type exists?

2. What are your experiences with this type of repair?

3. Where I can borrow one? I'd gladly pay for the usage?

4. Do any of the local shops loan out tools(highly unlikely)?

Thanks for your inputs.

Where are you at in North County Boat? I'm in Vista and have a seal, bearing removal tool that would probably pop that right out.

[Zenosan 2]

On the last ride I noticed the steering on my trusty DRZ400 was quite notchy. I removed the Scott's Steering Damper to the same effect. Meaning the once smooth circular side-to-side movement had become non-uniform, jerky and nearly difficult to move.

I guess after >7 years of dependable service (it's a 2001), it was time to inspect and lubricate the steering head bearing. (I believe I cleaned/lubricated them when I installed the Scott's Damper over 5 years past, oh well).

Upon inspection the taper needle bearings were rusted, did not ride smoothly and were pitted. Furthermore the upper and lower inner races exhibited similar characteristics including small wear grooves permanently laced into the once smooth 60 Rockwell case-harden races.

So after spending $86.10 plus tax on some new NTN bearings (Escondido Cycle Center had them in stock), I am off to remove the inner race bearings.

It appears the races are tightly press fit into the steering head (which they should be). After several futile tries (gently) with a hammer/screwdriver, I realized I need a tool made for the job. It appears a bearing race removal tool of some sort is needed. Before I use the Gorilla tactic (which never works) and wack this thing hard, I thought I might get some additional opinions. It would be ashame to put the new bearings in without changing the races. I've attached a picture of the inner race.

1. Does anyone know if a tool of this type exists?

2. What are your experiences with this type of repair?

3. Where I can borrow one? I'd gladly pay for the usage?

4. Do any of the local shops loan out tools(highly unlikely)?

Thanks for your inputs.

Where are you at in North County Boat? I'm in Vista and have a seal, bearing removal tool that would probably pop that right out.

I have always been able to get them out by using a long punch from the opposite end. Kinda like replacing wheel bearings on wheels, punch it out fronm the other side of the opening.

Don

[boat440 0]

On the last ride I noticed the steering on my trusty DRZ400 was quite notchy. I removed the Scott's Steering Damper to the same effect. Meaning the once smooth circular side-to-side movement had become non-uniform, jerky and nearly difficult to move.

I guess after >7 years of dependable service (it's a 2001), it was time to inspect and lubricate the steering head bearing. (I believe I cleaned/lubricated them when I installed the Scott's Damper over 5 years past, oh well).

Upon inspection the taper needle bearings were rusted, did not ride smoothly and were pitted. Furthermore the upper and lower inner races exhibited similar characteristics including small wear grooves permanently laced into the once smooth 60 Rockwell case-harden races.

So after spending $86.10 plus tax on some new NTN bearings (Escondido Cycle Center had them in stock), I am off to remove the inner race bearings.

It appears the races are tightly press fit into the steering head (which they should be). After several futile tries (gently) with a hammer/screwdriver, I realized I need a tool made for the job. It appears a bearing race removal tool of some sort is needed. Before I use the Gorilla tactic (which never works) and wack this thing hard, I thought I might get some additional opinions. It would be ashame to put the new bearings in without changing the races. I've attached a picture of the inner race.

1. Does anyone know if a tool of this type exists?

2. What are your experiences with this type of repair?

3. Where I can borrow one? I'd gladly pay for the usage?

4. Do any of the local shops loan out tools(highly unlikely)?

Thanks for your inputs.

Where are you at in North County Boat? I'm in Vista and have a seal, bearing removal tool that would probably pop that right out.

Thanks for the response Tlking6 & Dirt Dame.

I'm quite close to you off of Del Dios Highway.

I'll PM you. Thanks.

[socalhodaka 105]

Hey I pass by from San Marcos to Penasquitos and would just like to see your bike apart since I have a DRZ also. We also have a race puller at our shop in San Marcos. Kelly

[bikeslut 1]

not that this helps, at this point... DRZs often are underlubed in a few key areas... This is one of those areas; I just lubes mine, and they were pretty dry, but the races and rollers were in good mechanical shape. Swingarm pivots are another.

Will the pulled also set the new races? Probably not as big an issue on motorcycles, but if you dont set them well on a mountain bike, you risk knocking the tube out of round, and then it will never turn well.

Boat; I almost hesitate to say this... I started your bike for Rudy once on the x plane ride. I thought there was a cable hung up or something, just from jostling the handlbars during starting... I shouldve said something.. I mean something other than "those jackasses should not blow intersections!" (pet peeve)

[boat440 0]

not that this helps, at this point... DRZs often are underlubed in a few key areas... This is one of those areas; I just lubes mine, and they were pretty dry, but the races and rollers were in good mechanical shape. Swingarm pivots are another.

Will the pulled also set the new races? Probably not as big an issue on motorcycles, but if you dont set them well on a mountain bike, you risk knocking the tube out of round, and then it will never turn well.

Boat; I almost hesitate to say this... I started your bike for Rudy once on the x plane ride. I thought there was a cable hung up or something, just from jostling the handlbars during starting... I shouldve said something.. I mean something other than "those jackasses should not blow intersections!" (pet peeve)

Borrowed the tool from Tracy (tlking6) thanks. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

Socalhonka: Not much to see. The forks, bars, gas tank, steering stem and seat is off. PM if you want to look.

Zenosan: Thanks for the tip (Don), but not much luck with punching from the opposite side. It seems like you need equal pressure from 2 opposing bearing surfaces(no that's not a joke) to remove the race.

Bikeslut: You are right about lube, but I guess it was enough to last 5 years. All other functions on the bike appear to work, but will check. The jostling you heard is a spare wedge nut inslide the handlebars that previously held the Acerbis hand guard on. I'm replacing the bars with Renthals and even putting on new grips. And yea, yea yea, I owe you for taking off. The road showed so close on my GPS, I thought all were following.

[2Wheels 0]

Borrowed the tool from Tracy (tlking6) thanks. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

I plan on packing mine ('07) with grease later this year so I'm just wondering what kind of tool you used and how it worked out.

[boat440 0]

Borrowed the tool from Tracy (tlking6) thanks. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

I plan on packing mine ('07) with grease later this year so I'm just wondering what kind of tool you used and how it worked out.

A tool is not needed to repack bearings. You will need a large Crecent wrench, 30mm socket (I think) or spanner wrench to remove the steering head nut. I used the socket. Let me know if you need to borrow. The top bearing slides up and off the upper triple clamp and the triple clamp space bar (this holds the triple clamps together & in-unison). The bottom bearing is attached to the triple clamp spacer bar and the lower triple clamp (assembly). Good news for you 2Wheels is both bearings are easily service removable for grease repacking.

A tool is needed to remove the upper/lower races that the taper needle bearings ride on. It appears there is a slight interference/pressure fit of these races into the steering head tubular slot. Another (male) tube is welded into the steering head (female) tubular slot to space and seat both upper/lower bearing races.

Right now the tool that I borrowed from tlking6 does not work for this application. There is not enough material for the tool prongs (fingers) to grip the race while the tool impacts. This occurs since the races sit on the thin (but not thin enough) male spacer tube as described above. Upon usage the tool disengages the race portion. Modifying the tool may work(decreasing the tool finger width).

For now I have elected to use the brute force methodology of removal. I used a small disc cut-off tool (Dremel type) to slice the bearings in opposing locations. Yea, I know it's barbaric. I hope I won't regret. Will provide final resolution.

[Joliet 0]

Borrowed the tool from Tracy (tlking6) thanks. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

I plan on packing mine ('07) with grease later this year so I'm just wondering what kind of tool you used and how it worked out.

If your races are smooth, you won't need to pull them. Just clean all the old grease out, repack the bearings by hand and reinstall. it goes pretty quick.

[2Wheels 0]

Thanks for the replies. That's good news that I won't have to take those bearings out at least for now, but I'll still be watching this thread to see how the removal and reinstallation goes.

Also thanks for the offer to let me borrow the socket, but I should be set in the big socket department.

Harbor Freight Blind Hole Bearing Puller

Did you use a blind hole bearing puller? If you did and the outer lip was too wide, maybe you could wrap a piece of sheet metal or copper tubing around the outside rather than grinding down the grabbing edge.

[tlking6 0]

Thanks for the replies. That's good news that I won't have to take those bearings out at least for now, but I'll still be watching this thread to see how the removal and reinstallation goes.

Also thanks for the offer to let me borrow the socket, but I should be set in the big socket department.

Harbor Freight Blind Hole Bearing Puller

Did you use a blind hole bearing puller? If you did and the outer lip was too wide, maybe you could wrap a piece of sheet metal or copper tubing around the outside rather than grinding down the grabbing edge.

The tool Boat has is a slide hammer but it is old skool in the sense that it has two opposing hooks that spread inside the tube via a mechanism that forces the hooks apart. I'm thinking it didnt work because the hooks are probably worn a little and dont have a sharp enough edge to grab what little bit of the race is exposed. It works really good for popping out stubborn bearings or seals. I've pulled races out of axel tubes, wheel bearings etc with that thing for years. I should of ground a fresh edge on the hooks before I gave it to him. I feel defeated.

[2Wheels 0]

Thanks for the reply, Tlking.

Here's another thought, Boat: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/...g_remover_sets/

[2Wheels 0]

Not sure whether you've gotten the bearing out yet, but here's a improvised tool that may work.

Link in Google Books to an article in 1960 Popular Science:

http://books.google.com/books?id=1CoDAAAAM...esult#PPA129,M1

[boat440 0]

Not sure whether you've gotten the bearing out yet, but here's a improvised tool that may work.

Link in Google Books to an article in 1960 Popular Science:

http://books.google.com/books?id=1CoDAAAAM...esult#PPA129,M1

Thanks 2wheels & tlking6. Wow, where go you find this stuff. From June, 1960. I was a month old.

It would have been difficult to find a washer with the exact OD needed to grab onto the lip of the bearing race. Instead I used a die grinder to cut the bearing races in half and they came out easily.

The races were a line-to-line fit with the steering head so I let them cool in my freezer overnight and they slide right in.

After water-proof greasing and pre-loading with the triple clamp nut the side to side steering movement is now smoooooooooooooth.

[blind_in_1_ear 0]

Harbor Freight Blind Hole Bearing Puller

IT'S a WHAT!!?!?!?!?

nervously Blind

[dirt dame 561]

Harbor Freight Blind Hole Bearing Puller

IT'S a WHAT!!?!?!?!?

nervously Blind

Don't worry, Blind. Nobody's gonna stick one of those in your ear hole! :

[2Wheels 0]

Thanks 2wheels & tlking6. Wow, where go you find this stuff. From June, 1960. I was a month old.

It would have been difficult to find a washer with the exact OD needed to grab onto the lip of the bearing race. Instead I used a die grinder to cut the bearing races in half and they came out easily.

The races were a line-to-line fit with the steering head so I let them cool in my freezer overnight and they slide right in.

After water-proof greasing and pre-loading with the triple clamp nut the side to side steering movement is now smoooooooooooooth.

Well, I don't think I actually helped, but I'll give you a you're welcome anyway. Finding the article was easy. All I did was type Improvised Bearing Puller into google, and that article was on either the first or second page of the search results.

You know, ever since you posted the question about removing that bearing, I've been trying to think of a way to get it out without destroying it. When I get around to greasing my steering head, I'm going to have to take it out whether it needs it or not.

And thanks for the tip about getting the bearings in easily by putting them in the freezer.

[boat440 0]

...I've been trying to think of a way to get it out without destroying it. When I get around to greasing my steering head, I'm going to have to take it out whether it needs it or not.

And thanks for the tip about getting the bearings in easily by putting them in the freezer.

2Wheels: First inspect before removing. No need to take the races out unless they are pitted/worn and need to be replaced. My needle rollers were rusty, worn & pitted and the races had permanent tracks worn into them. I made a decision to replace them, since I intend to keep the bike.

If they are not worn, you can easily clean both upper & lower outer races while in the steering head, best not to take them out. The inner races and needle bearings(rollers) are also quite easily accessible and easy to clean. Use a degreaser to remove the grease residue and dirt, let dry overnight, then grease them up good and reassemble..