Loctite Melts Plastic

[Honda90 0]

I really do need to find a solution for my turn signal problem. This particular design wants to vibrate loose. Blue thread locker just ate this one alive. My bike has no battery so I'm not sure if I can run LED's. Is there a slick, cheap solution?

[Desertrunner 0]

What do you ride?

I believe LEDs require a DC power source, but not a battery. If you have an AC power system, you need an R/R (regulator/rectifier) to convert the AC power to DC.

Otherwise, why not use two nuts on the back side or a nylon locknut?

By the way, thanks for the tip. I didn't know Loctite did that to plastic.

[Honda90 0]

Thanks Nick,

I ride an old DR350. Turn signals were added. I guess I need to run down my electrical system, and see what's under the seat. (Electricity is voodoo to me.)

[2Wheels 0]

Maybe RTV or some other kind of silicone would lock the nuts and not melt the plastic. You could put a little RTV on the turn signal that's already been ruined to see if it gets messed up. Also test the RTV on a hardware store bolt to see if you can still take it apart when you want.

As you probably already know, there are lots of different kinds of plastic — polyester, PVC, polyethelene — to name a few. Blue loctite probably doesn't melt them all, but it's good to know it melts some of them.

[BSon2or4 28]

It's a chemistry thing. If you've got the patience and want to rebuild that light I'd recommend using a windshield urethane as your weapon of choice. It is moisture cure, available at Napa or any windshield installer, durable, and can be injected into a form with a caulking gun. Once it cures it becomes a solid block of urethane rubber. I've used it to resurface many a dead blow mallet contact surface and shore up torn engine and tranny mounts on cars and trucks. As for a form, any cereal box style waxie surface cardboard and a lecithin mold release (cooking spray/PAM) with a little folding and hot gluing or taping and you're in business. Next, rough up your surfaces (For the threaded shaft a star washer and a couple of nuts will give suitable grip) and back your threaded shaft with a flat washer, if you want the wires to move freely slice a soda straw and use it like loom. Finally, install your parts on your mold and make a mess. I highly recommend wearing gloves to work with this stuff as it's sticky and contains carbon black that will permanently stain everything it touches. Any mistakes can be sanded out or more gunned in. I always have a couple of tubes of this goop sitting around for just such projects and prototyping. It's a lot cheaper than a 3d printer and can get you by in a pinch.

[HVYWT 3]

Shoe Goo

[kkug 147]

It's a chemistry thing. If you've got the patience and want to rebuild that light I'd recommend using a windshield urethane as your weapon of choice. It is moisture cure, available at Napa or any windshield installer, durable, and can be injected into a form with a caulking gun. Once it cures it becomes a solid block of urethane rubber. I've used it to resurface many a dead blow mallet contact surface and shore up torn engine and tranny mounts on cars and trucks. As for a form, any cereal box style waxie surface cardboard and a lecithin mold release (cooking spray/PAM) with a little folding and hot gluing or taping and you're in business. Next, rough up your surfaces (For the threaded shaft a star washer and a couple of nuts will give suitable grip) and back your threaded shaft with a flat washer, if you want the wires to move freely slice a soda straw and use it like loom. Finally, install your parts on your mold and make a mess. I highly recommend wearing gloves to work with this stuff as it's sticky and contains carbon black that will permanently stain everything it touches. Any mistakes can be sanded out or more gunned in. I always have a couple of tubes of this goop sitting around for just such projects and prototyping. It's a lot cheaper than a 3d printer and can get you by in a pinch.

Thanks that a good tip. I was looking for something that would work like this .

[Honda90 0]

It's a chemistry thing. If you've got the patience and want to rebuild that light I'd recommend using a windshield urethane as your weapon of choice. It is moisture cure, available at Napa or any windshield installer, durable, and can be injected into a form with a caulking gun. Once it cures it becomes a solid block of urethane rubber. I've used it to resurface many a dead blow mallet contact surface and shore up torn engine and tranny mounts on cars and trucks. As for a form, any cereal box style waxie surface cardboard and a lecithin mold release (cooking spray/PAM) with a little folding and hot gluing or taping and you're in business. Next, rough up your surfaces (For the threaded shaft a star washer and a couple of nuts will give suitable grip) and back your threaded shaft with a flat washer, if you want the wires to move freely slice a soda straw and use it like loom. Finally, install your parts on your mold and make a mess. I highly recommend wearing gloves to work with this stuff as it's sticky and contains carbon black that will permanently stain everything it touches. Any mistakes can be sanded out or more gunned in. I always have a couple of tubes of this goop sitting around for just such projects and prototyping. It's a lot cheaper than a 3d printer and can get you by in a pinch.

So, how long have you been with NASA? Thanks. I never would have thought of that.

Based on your idea I did something similar but way less cool. Hope it lasts a few paychecks! And I moved it out of the kick zone.

[BSon2or4 28]

That looks like it'll work fine. As long as it's visible from behind you shouldn't have to deal with any fishing expedition's from the county's finest.