Any Easy Out experts?

[piratemonkey 0]

I was changing the oil in the Husky and managed to overtighten a bolt on the oil filter cover. I was using a torque wrench but I must've read the wrong value out of the owner's manual. So now I've got a broken bolt that needs to come out.

I can go and buy myself an Easy Out kit and try to get the bolt out myself, but I've never used one before and have great concern that I will bung things up worse than they already are.

So anybody out there a) an Easy Out vet, kinda bored today, and c) wouldn't mind driving to the College Area to help a fellow rider? I would load the bike and take it to you, but I can only load my bike with motorized assistance (the S.O. is out of town). Or, I can bring the bike by this weekend when the S.O. is back.

Mille grazie.

[bikeslut 1]

is there any exposed bolt left? Is the break fairly clean? Do you have an easy out in the right size? what size bolt?

I haven't used one in years, but remember that bigger bolts were much easier than tiny ones... Do you have something to square up the broken bolt?

[piratemonkey 0]

Unfortunately, none of the bolt is exposed and it's not a fat bolt. I figured if the bolt removal went awry at all there's always the Helicoil solution.

Not sure what's needed to square up the bolt.

Me and my dopey gorilla hands.

[Spaugh 1]

i have easy outs, but thats a long ass bolt. I can retap it maybe??

[DigDug 0]

Unfortunately, none of the bolt is exposed and it's not a fat bolt. I figured if the bolt removal went awry at all there's always the Helicoil solution.

Not sure what's needed to square up the bolt.

Me and my dopey gorilla hands.

I don't think you'll find an easy out that is that long/skinny...

How much work would it be to remove the side case to get access to the broken part of the bolt? (I know - alot)

It also doesn't look like a very clean break - It'll be hard to drill the busted part without the bit walking into the threads on the case...

[bikeslut 1]

Unfortunately, none of the bolt is exposed and it's not a fat bolt. I figured if the bolt removal went awry at all there's always the Helicoil solution.

Not sure what's needed to square up the bolt.

Me and my dopey gorilla hands.

eeeewwwww... i doubt an easy out would reach down to where you need it... aren't they normally fairly tapered?

If an easy out will fit down to the broken off section, they break looks pretty clean... if that doesn't work... (IF it was my bike... and it's not... and I am a no-talent hack...)

replace the bolt with a shorter one, and tap the case

[bikeslut 1]

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It also doesn't look like a very clean break - It'll be hard to drill the busted part without the bit walking into the threads on the case...

The way it looks to me... the bolt has a "male" broken section; meaning a natural hole for the drill bit to be in..

we're such a bunch of guys we get excited about somebody elses broken bike... We're like MAcGruder

[piratemonkey 0]

replace the bolt with a shorter one, and tap the case

Just talked to Brad and it looks like tapping is indeed the way to go so I'm going to borrow what I need from him. There should be enough thickness to work with (anyone correct me if I'm wrong).

I know you're not supposed to give yourself a nickname, but next time anyone sees me, say "Yo, OT!" (OT = Over Torque).

[bikeslut 1]

I've got a nickname for ya... "wrench"

I assume there is an O ring, so as long as you keep that seal tight, you should be fine... NOW is the time you REALLY don't want to overtorque that bolt, though... cuz, this time, it'll crack

wrench

[DigDug 0]

replace the bolt with a shorter one, and tap the case

Just talked to Brad and it looks like tapping is indeed the way to go so I'm going to borrow what I need from him. There should be enough thickness to work with (anyone correct me if I'm wrong).

I know you're not supposed to give yourself a nickname, but next time anyone sees me, say "Yo, OT!" (OT = Over Torque).

I agree that tapping the case is the way to get the cover back on... Do you think that bolt is crucial for holding the underlying side case onto the engine though??? Heck - maybe the busted bolt is serving that purpose right now (depending on where it broke)... It's also on top - I say tap away, if it leaks a little oil - so be it.. Oil is cheaper than a new engine case!!!

[humptythumty 0]

Zina,

Looks like you've got some good advice and a plan.

I've got a fair amount of experience with easy outs and re tapping. If your still a little shaky on what your doing I would be glad to fix it for you.

Let me know if you need help.

Wayne

[Joliet 0]

Those bolts are only for holding enough pressure on the case cover to keep it from leaking.

I have had good luck in the past just using some heat (torch or heat gun) and using a good quality scribe or 2 to get the part to turn out. If the bolt broke clean and didn't start to strip the threads, with a little finesse sometimes you can get them to back out.

I would also get a billet replacement for the cover, they seal much better than the stock ones.

http://www.7602racing.com/prod_ofc.php

I have a helicoil set for that size if you need it. Ken

[Mescalero 0]

.

[Kevin 0]

If there is enough threads left, just use a shorter bolt. If not, spray the area with PB Blast Penetrating oil (can get it at Auto Zone), and then use an easy out. Should come out with no problem........

[piratemonkey 0]

Here's a pic of the bolt showing where it snapped in relation to the case:

I can't get anything to bite into the other part of the case so I may have deformed the bolt enough to fill the space I thought was empty (based on where the bolt broke). I don't even know if that's possible; I'm just guessing based on my knowledge of metallurgy (none). I do know if you twist Play-Doh too much it starts getting longer. Bolts and Play-Doh: comparable, no?

My only concern is if that bolt contributed much in the holding-together of the case. Its nearest neighbors aren't exactly super close. I can live with a slow weeping of oil if that's the worst of it.

[Mescalero 0]

.

[Joliet 0]

My biggest fear would be that the hole isn't a blind hole. Meaning that it is open into the inside of the case. I would hate to see that little section of bolt work loose and make its way into the crankcase. I think giving George at Uptite a call, might be the wise choice. Good luck. Ken

[Spaugh 1]

the bolt was dry no oil on it. It won't get in the bottom end. I say ride it without the bolt. If you leak, order the right hand case gasket and we go from there. channel locks, easy outs whatever. Unless it leaks I'd forget about it.

EDIT: now Ken you are making me second guess it. I'm not sure what Z ended up doing. I let her borrow a tap, not sure if she decided to go that route, but maybe you could pull that bolt and see if it has oil on it on your bike. Shine a flashlight in the hole see if its a dead end??

[piratemonkey 0]

I didn't end up tapping the end. At the moment there's still an open hole. So I don't know if this is related or not, but I've got a very slow leak coming from the oil drain plug, like it's not tight enough even though it's properly torqued (took a few hours for the oil to appear on the ground). Is the open hole creating a vent situation making it easier for oil to weep out? I was going to plug the hole with something (like a rubber plug) to see if that stops the leak.

Another thing may be that the plug has no crush washer on it -- I don't believe I dropped one (if it had one) into the oil because I held onto the plug upon removal. Do any of you Husky owners recall a crush washer on the drain plug? I can go buy a copper one from the auto parts store if it's supposed to have one.

[Spaugh 1]

I didn't end up tapping the end. At the moment there's still an open hole. So I don't know if this is related or not, but I've got a very slow leak coming from the oil drain plug, like it's not tight enough even though it's properly torqued (took a few hours for the oil to appear on the ground). Is the open hole creating a vent situation making it easier for oil to weep out? I was going to plug the hole with something (like a rubber plug) to see if that stops the leak.

Another thing may be that the plug has no crush washer on it -- I don't believe I dropped one (if it had one) into the oil because I held onto the plug upon removal. Do any of you Husky owners recall a crush washer on the drain plug? I can go buy a copper one from the auto parts store if it's supposed to have one.

hey z, your drain plug is unrelated. You case is vented from that tube on the head. You need a copper washer. I'll bring you one when I bring back the compression tester.

[Joliet 0]

I didn't end up tapping the end. At the moment there's still an open hole. So I don't know if this is related or not, but I've got a very slow leak coming from the oil drain plug, like it's not tight enough even though it's properly torqued (took a few hours for the oil to appear on the ground). Is the open hole creating a vent situation making it easier for oil to weep out? I was going to plug the hole with something (like a rubber plug) to see if that stops the leak.

Another thing may be that the plug has no crush washer on it -- I don't believe I dropped one (if it had one) into the oil because I held onto the plug upon removal. Do any of you Husky owners recall a crush washer on the drain plug? I can go buy a copper one from the auto parts store if it's supposed to have one.

Yes the plug is supposed to have a washer on it. If you install the plug without a washer you can damage the threads and they may always leak, this is pretty common. Just clean the hole good, put a washer on the plug, put some RTV on it and screw it back in. There is a taper at the end of the plug and without the washer to shim it down it screws in far enough to damage the threads, yes, I know from personal experience. I don't take out my plug any more, I just drain the oil by taking out the screen on the left side of the case. Ken

[piratemonkey 0]

Just an update that Fritz thought it was hilarious I would try to run him without the third bolt. That hole was dribbling a good bit of oil when I fired him up. If Huskys didn't shake like unbalanced washing machines it might not have been so bad, but alas, they do (part of the charm...).

Brad tapped the hole so I could put a short bolt in it and at least get the oil filter cover snug. There's still weeping where the motor joins up, but it's extremely slow and only happens when it's running. it's nothing like how the oil cover leak was. I'll still eventually try to get the bolt out; just putting it off for now since the weather has been great and I want to ride.

On a related note of my oil changing woes, I tried changing my truck oil today. The last place to do it was a shop (I also had to get other work done) and I swear they used a torque an impact wrench to put it back on. Nothing will get the oil filter off. I resorted to stabbing it through the side with a screwdriver to try to twist it off but even that didn't work. The truck sits forlornly in the driveway void of oil and with a punctured oil filter. If anyone has any genius ideas of how to remove it, I'm all ears. I did buy the type of oil filter wrench that cups the bottom like a socket but it didn't work.

I'm wondering if this is a sign for me to start outsourcing all my oil changing -- I seem to be having a bad streak of luck.

[Spaugh 1]

Just an update that Fritz thought it was hilarious I would try to run him without the third bolt. That hole was dribbling a good bit of oil when I fired him up. If Huskys didn't shake like unbalanced washing machines it might not have been so bad, but alas, they do (part of the charm...).

Brad tapped the hole so I could put a short bolt in it and at least get the oil filter cover snug. There's still weeping where the motor joins up, but it's extremely slow and only happens when it's running. it's nothing like how the oil cover leak was. I'll still eventually try to get the bolt out; just putting it off for now since the weather has been great and I want to ride.

On a related note of my oil changing woes, I tried changing my truck oil today. The last place to do it was a shop (I also had to get other work done) and I swear they used a torque wrench to put it back on. Nothing will get the oil filter off. I resorted to stabbing it through the side with a screwdriver to try to twist it off but even that didn't work. The truck sits forlornly in the driveway void of oil and with a punctured oil filter. If anyone has any genius ideas of how to remove it, I'm all ears. I did buy the type of oil filter wrench that cups the bottom like a socket but it didn't work.

I'm wondering if this is a sign for me to start outsourcing all my oil changing -- I seem to be having a bad streak of luck.

damn Z!! :)

I got an oil filter wrench that will take your FORD filter right off. Same story on the yota. A real PITA to get off unless you put em on hand tight. Mi tools es su tools.

[dirt dame 559]

On a related note of my oil changing woes, I tried changing my truck oil today. The last place to do it was a shop (I also had to get other work done) and I swear they used a torque wrench to put it back on. Nothing will get the oil filter off. I resorted to stabbing it through the side with a screwdriver to try to twist it off but even that didn't work. The truck sits forlornly in the driveway void of oil and with a punctured oil filter. If anyone has any genius ideas of how to remove it, I'm all ears. I did buy the type of oil filter wrench that cups the bottom like a socket but it didn't work.

I'm wondering if this is a sign for me to start outsourcing all my oil changing -- I seem to be having a bad streak of luck.

Get the kind of oil filter wrench that looks like a channel lock wrench. I got one for free, last time they changed my oil at Wal Mart. Opened up my hood and there it was, hanging up in the motorworks. Otherwise, you might have to use a real channel lock pliers to get to that filter, maybe from the bottom.

[paulmbowers 236]

I have a very large pair of ChannelLocks that are used for that express purpose. Happy to lend if you wish, but they are fairly common.

p