Jump to content
Goofy Footer

DRZ400 Dirt to Sumo Quick

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know where one can purchase just the clips... I would like to use a new clip but feel OK with using the master link a few times.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know where one can purchase just the clips... I would like to use a new clip but feel OK with using the master link a few times.

If they are not available I think they should be if you want to use "O" rings. Regular replacement of the clip would make sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how many miles are you getting out of a non O ring chain, Don?

Which bike Bob? My Virago CRUISER has a shaft drive. :rolleyes: Dual sport XL's seem to last the life of the sprockets. When I ride a Husky at Ocotillo Wells they wear out pretty quick. I go through at least five or six chains per set of sprockets is the sand. Depends on what you are doing with your bike. On a commuter bike I actually think the standard chain is safer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I plan on taking the supermoto to some track days (Adams has a dirt section) and will probably try Black Canyon or Nate Harrison, I can see the benefits of an O-ring chain there.

170mph on my DRZ is quite reasonable, I figure my graphics create the illusion that I'm going twice as fast as I'm actually going anyways. I think the silicone idea seems practical on street or track, can't hurt right?

My current chain fits my 14/47 and 14/44 set-ups. For flexibility in gearing choices I'm thinking of putting a 15t front and running 15/50 or 15/51 dirt and 15/41 for pavement. If my dirt chain won't fit the 50t rear could I simply extend it by installing an additional rivet style master link into the chain? (as opposed to buying a new dirt/long chain, I'm already buying a new chain/sprocket for my street set up)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I plan on taking the supermoto to some track days (Adams has a dirt section) and will probably try Black Canyon or Nate Harrison, I can see the benefits of an O-ring chain there.

170mph on my DRZ is quite reasonable, I figure my graphics create the illusion that I'm going twice as fast as I'm actually going anyways. I think the silicone idea seems practical on street or track, can't hurt right?

My current chain fits my 14/47 and 14/44 set-ups. For flexibility in gearing choices I'm thinking of putting a 15t front and running 15/50 or 15/51 dirt and 15/41 for pavement. If my dirt chain won't fit the 50t rear could I simply extend it by installing an additional rivet style master link into the chain? (as opposed to buying a new dirt/long chain, I'm already buying a new chain/sprocket for my street set up)

"I" (consider the source) would be comfortable running two clip style links on the dirt/ less comfortable with that on the street... that could solve your chain problem

I tell ya; when I was a kid, we used any chain we could find... we would've used shoelaces from our shoes... IF we had shoes... which we didn't... we went barefoot... during the winter we wrapped our feet in barbed wire just to get some traction on the ice

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, and I remember walking to school (Kindergarten) in waist deep snow. Of couse I was only 30" tall at the time. But by the time I was in first grade I was blasting my way to school on my Vintage Husky without an "O" ring chain. Here is the tire I used.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200603695924&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

By the way...none of those solutions pictured above seem to solve the basic problem to me. When the pressure of the "O" ring and the pivoting chain link wear through the retainer clip neither RTV nor wire is going to hold it. The side plate, wire, RTV and worn clip are all going to come flying off. "O" rings need to be rivited. Standard chains do just fine with several master links in them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well- they sell O ring clip style master links... and I have never had one fail, and ALL I run are O ring

I DID have a rivet style link fail, but I have a feeling the mechanic was retarded... :ph34r: ... and that was on a 100hp bike

so- I like the easy way, and Don likes the old school way... other opinions on O ring chains and master links?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BS I go the easy way as well. I have used the same o-ring chain for years. I change out different wheel/ sprocket sets from street to dirt without issue. It has worn out several sprockets. I do carry extra oring master links with links of chain just in case. It is time to replace to be safe, and it will be with another oring chain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Goofy- that diagram does not address Don's concern...his point is that the O rings (rubber washer on each link) lead to "play" in the chain, particularly side to side play

That is the kind of play that will wear on a clip, thus leading to premature failure of the clip and the subsequent- clip pops, side plate comes off, link falls out, chain tears loose under load, gives you a new tattoo on the lower leg, then takes out the case as it completes its last rotation

That said- I have never run a "standard" chain...shaft drives or O ring chains

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Goofy- that diagram does not address Don's concern...his point is that the O rings (rubber washer on each link) lead to "play" in the chain,

Actually my real concern is the reason you need a press to install a master link with O rings. Once installed the clip is under high compression pressure sideways. The pin is swivelling back and forth under high sideways compression against the clip as the chain goes around the sprockets. O rings are fine for tracks and relatively short terms etc.. My concern is for longer terms like when you are trying to get the extra mileage out of your chain because it hasn't stretched that much after many miles. I actually am guilty of just that. My wife's 95 Suzuki quad has the original O ring chain on it. I even have a low mileage Honda XL with its original equipment O ring chain. But after reading Bob's description of possible consequences of the thing giving way I may end its life pretty soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Goofy- that diagram does not address Don's concern...his point is that the O rings (rubber washer on each link) lead to "play" in the chain,

Actually my real concern is the reason you need a press to install a master link with O rings. Once installed the clip is under high compression pressure sideways. The pin is swivelling back and forth under high sideways compression against the clip as the chain goes around the sprockets. O rings are fine for tracks and relatively short terms etc.. My concern is for longer terms like when you are trying to get the extra mileage out of your chain because it hasn't stretched that much after many miles. I actually am guilty of just that. My wife's 95 Suzuki quad has the original O ring chain on it. I even have a low mileage Honda XL with its original equipment O ring chain. But after reading Bob's description of possible consequences of the thing giving way I may end its life pretty soon.

Instead of pitching the entire chain, why not just put on a new clip. Or better yet take the old clip off and inspect it closely, and if it is good reinstall it.

The reason I need to use a press on my o-ring chains is because of the extremely tight tolerances between the link pins and the hole in the side plate. Even if I took off the master link orings and threw them away, I would still need a press to put the side plate on (or pull it off).

Also the pins are fixed solidly to one of the side plates and do not rotate inside of the removable side plate or the clip, all of the pivoting on the pins is done in between the o-rings on the narrow lubricated section of the chain. The clip does not deal with any rotating force, just side pressure. I have never seen any wear on a clip except where they have rubbed on something like a chain guide.

$0.02 :) Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you are right about the rotation of the pin Ken. Give you that. But I have never needed a press to get the side plate on a master link with a standard chain. Pair of plyers at the most. I guess with heat and time the o rings could compress and loose some compression. I noticed that all my bikes that came with an o ring chain from the factory had no master link. Every one was riveted. Had to break the chain with a chain breaker to get it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"I" (consider the source)

BS, how many links are in your 15/50 or 15/51 dirt chain?

15/41 = 110 stock SM

15/44 = 112 stock S

14/47 = 112 stock E

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a 120 and cut to fit

I hadn't thought of doing that. If I brought beer to your garage could you help me cut some chains?

I'll buy a 120 and cut that to fit the 15/51 dirt set-up then cut my existing chain to fit the 15/41 supermoto set-up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll do ya one better...I'll bring the tool to work and swing by right after

BUT- somebody at thumpertalk can answer your question, or search there...william1 probably knows without checking

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hadn't thought of doing that. If I brought beer to your garage could you help me cut some chains?

I'll buy a 120 and cut that to fit the 15/51 dirt set-up then cut my existing chain to fit the 15/41 supermoto set-up.

By the way, while we're talking about chains, Cycle Gear has the $90 chain breaker/rivet tool on sale for $30.

LINK HERE

They have them in the stores.

Pick one up!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll do ya one better...I'll bring the tool to work and swing by right after

Awesome. I'll order the chain and sprockets and let you know when they come in. Now I'll have 2 chains and 41, 44, 47 & 50t sprockets. I also bought a S subframe so I can hook up luggage. DRZ versatility!

By the way, while we're talking about chains, Cycle Gear has the $90 chain breaker/rivet tool on sale for $30.

LINK HERE

They have them in the stores.

Pick one up!!!

Thanks for the link Doug. Can't beat a sale like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Goofy- that diagram does not address Don's concern...his point is that the O rings (rubber washer on each link) lead to "play" in the chain,

Actually my real concern is the reason you need a press to install a master link with O rings. Once installed the clip is under high compression pressure sideways. The pin is swivelling back and forth under high sideways compression against the clip as the chain goes around the sprockets. O rings are fine for tracks and relatively short terms etc.. My concern is for longer terms like when you are trying to get the extra mileage out of your chain because it hasn't stretched that much after many miles. I actually am guilty of just that. My wife's 95 Suzuki quad has the original O ring chain on it. I even have a low mileage Honda XL with its original equipment O ring chain. But after reading Bob's description of possible consequences of the thing giving way I may end its life pretty soon.

the "press" is just to get the side plate fully over the pins on the link

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information