DRZ400 Dirt to Sumo Quick

[Goofy Footer 539]

I recently acquired stock sumo wheels for the DRZ

I run E dirt gearing 14/47 and want to keep that off-road. Stock S gearing is 15/44. Stock SM gearing is 15/41.

My sm wheelset has a 44t rear sprocket and 14/44 is too low on pavement and freeway is no fun. I don't need to hit high speeds but I don't want to be run over from behind.

I have a 15t front sprocket at home. I could run 15/44 and I believe 16/44 on the stock chain. I've seen guys run 14/39 and swap chains.

- - - What is a better plan of attack: change the front sprocket or change the chain? - - - (I will be changing set-ups fairly often)

PS If anybody is curious I'm running the stock E/S rotors on the SM wheels. I couldn't clear the 240mm SM rotor out back and I'll need to either buy a 320mm adapter for the 310mm SM front rotor or buy a 320mm rotor and caliper combo package for $220 from motostrano

[bikeslut 1]

front sprocket seems easier... but it should really be lok-tited in place

I swap rear sprockets (that are also lok-tited but don't need a puller) and the chain...

for you; I would swap the chain for sure. I am running 15-41 on the freeway and it's "just enough"... consider a 38 or 39 if using it for commuting on a busy freeway. I can do 90 in a pinch, but it's wound out; 78 is a sweet spot

I have a 52 and another chain on the workbench

[Goofy Footer 539]

I don't have a speedo so I ride based on rpm feel and traffic flow. At the moment I'm more or less looking to ride comfortably in the slower lanes (70mph cruising is fine by me). I'm pretty sketched out on the whole freeway riding thing as is...

hmmm 15/52 and 15/44 on the same chain? Buy you a beer at Alpine Brewery if you let me try?

[bikeslut 1]

I don't have a speedo so I ride based on rpm feel and traffic flow. At the moment I'm more or less looking to ride comfortably in the slower lanes (70mph cruising is fine by me). I'm pretty sketched out on the whole freeway riding thing as is...

hmmm 15/52 and 15/44 on the same chain? Buy you a beer at Alpine Brewery if you let me try?

you can try but it won't fit... pretty much guarantee it; even a 14/52 won't fit

A chain is just as easy as a front sprocket, once you have it sized correctly

[bikeslut 1]

so I would suggest... get a bigger sprocket for the back. At least a 48 for your dirt set-up, if not a 50 or 52.

Keep an extra chain sized for the 15-50 or whatever... some people will argue the front sprocket will wear at a different rate, and with different chains, but I'm not one of those people...

the kind of person I AM though;

dude... buy some yellow plastics... that thing is ugly

a full set of Acerbis was like $120... in fact... I MAY have some stuff in my garage; I'll check next time I'm home

[Goofy Footer 539]

the kind of person I AM though;

dude... buy some yellow plastics... that thing is ugly

a full set of Acerbis was like $120... in fact... I MAY have some stuff in my garage; I'll check next time I'm home

Huh? Ugly yellow? Beer offer has been rescinded. I was thinking more along these lines... I want all the liter bikes to remember me when I pass them at Palomar

On a serious note: On the DRZ front sprocket there is a washer that is folded up to hold the nut in place. I've read that the washer is good for maybe 4-6 folds before its trashed (at least they are inexpensive). What about drilling through the shaft the nut bolts onto and putting a cotter pin to retain the washer and nut... or is that ludacris?

[KTMrad 508]

On a serious note: On the DRZ front sprocket there is a washer that is folded up to hold the nut in place. I've read that the washer is good for maybe 4-6 folds before its trashed (at least they are cheap). What about drilling through the shaft the nut bolts onto and putting a cotter pin in it or is that ludacris?

Ludacris.........buy a couple spare fold-up washers so when the one you have on it wears out, you have one ready.

I see the yellow tank fit your bike !

[Joliet 0]

That is good advice Bob. The front sprocket should be loctited in place, and is not only a pain to pull, but it is difficult to clean all the old loctite out of the shaft splines to loctite the new one in place. It should sit for 24 hours after installing for strongest bond (I like to let it set without the chain on overnight). I use Loctite 638 which is made to fill the bigger gaps of spline applications. I would also suggest getting an Ironman front sprocket, as it will last a long time. If it were mine, I would get a seperate rear sprocket and chain for each rear wheel.

[jbw 0]

I run 14 48 dirt, and 14 38 on the street with the 17 inch sumo wheel. Two chains obviously.

I dont want to mess with the front sprocket as it has know issues on the drz and I have it locktited with something even stronger than red.

[Joliet 0]

On a serious note: On the DRZ front sprocket there is a washer that is folded up to hold the nut in place. I've read that the washer is good for maybe 4-6 folds before its trashed (at least they are cheap). What about drilling through the shaft the nut bolts onto and putting a cotter pin in it or is that ludacris?

Ludacris.........buy a couple spare fold-up washers so when the one you have on it wears out, you have one ready.

I see the yellow tank fit your bike !

What he said. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-SUZUKI-TS250-GN400-DR500-LOCK-WASHER-09167-22012-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f41842e3QQitemZ300447974115QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[SteelRain 0]

Deja Vu

I think we just had this discussion, but it is nice to know that I am not totally looney tunes

[Goofy Footer 539]

A chain is just as easy as a front sprocket, once you have it sized correctly

Is swapping chains really as easy as popping off the u looking lock on the master link, pulling off the backing mechanism then sliding the master link out? Then reinstall it with the closed U on the forward side so the U faces backwards?

This guy does it in 5 seconds VIDEO

[Goofy Footer 539]

Ludacris.........buy a couple spare fold-up washers so when the one you have on it wears out, you have one ready.

I see the yellow tank fit your bike !

Randy, technically this is Ludacris...

Thanks for the tip and Joliet for the link. I'll pick a couple up just in case. Yes the tank fits and it served me quite well in DV. I posted a ride report of my trip I couldn't have done it without the tank. If I ever see an orange harley at South Beach I'll stop in and buy you a beer.

[Goofy Footer 539]

That is good advice Bob. The front sprocket should be loctited in place, and is not only a pain to pull, but it is difficult to clean all the old loctite out of the shaft splines to loctite the new one in place. It should sit for 24 hours after installing for strongest bond (I like to let it set without the chain on overnight). I use Loctite 638 which is made to fill the bigger gaps of spline applications. I would also suggest getting an Ironman front sprocket, as it will last a long time. If it were mine, I would get a seperate rear sprocket and chain for each rear wheel.

Thanks for the tip Joliet, I will look into Ironman Sprockets. I'm also looking up reviews on the Kush Sprockets bikeslut posted a month ago. Might be a good set up for the SM wheels.

I run 14 48 dirt, and 14 38 on the street with the 17 inch sumo wheel. Two chains obviously.

I dont want to mess with the front sprocket as it has know issues on the drz and I have it locktited with something even stronger than red.

JBW good to know, esp considering you have the same dirt/sumo set up. Any problems with 14/38? What I mean any reason keeping the 14t front when you could run 15/51 and 15/41? I suppose you already had the 14t front sprocket and the chain to fit 14/47. Is this the 38t rear that you have?

[Goofy Footer 539]

Deja Vu

I think we just had this discussion, but it is nice to know that I am not totally looney tunes

Haha, you threw so much technical advice at me my brain couldn't comprehend it all. Next time I'm coming to you with a notepad and some GoPro video of me riding sumo so I can get riding tips! I do remember that dividing sprockets (front teeth over rear teeth) should result in a non repeating decimals for optimal chain wear! 2 hours in your garage and you've convinced me that any children you have will come outta the womb doing wheelies on 2stroke pitbikes haha. Thanks again for the wheels. I'm searching CL for protective street gear, any pointers on what I should look for?

PS sorry for all the posts at once, I got many replies to this thread and don't know how to work the multi-quote thing correctly. THANKS everybody for the replies!

[SteelRain 0]

Is swapping chains really as easy as popping off the u looking lock on the master link, pulling off the backing mechanism then sliding the master link out? Then reinstall it with the closed U on the forward side so the U faces backwards?

This guy does it in 5 seconds VIDEO

It is. However, most racing and quality TD organizations will require you to safety wire that clip. It take about a couple of seconds and costs about 10 cents per instance but it could save your leg, or your neck (few years back a guy broke his neck on the track his chain threw and locked up the bike from 180ish... real ugly.

[Goofy Footer 539]

It is. However, most racing and quality TD organizations will require you to safety wire that clip. It take about a couple of seconds and costs about 10 cents per instance but it could save your leg, or your neck (few years back a guy broke his neck on the track his chain threw and locked up the bike from 180ish... real ugly.

holy ----. there are many threads about this on 600rr.net but everybody seems to vary slightly (the majority thinks rivets are best but clips work in dirt). What method were you referring to?

Some people use silicone with the clip

Safety Wire Version One

Safety Wire Version Two. Is there enough clearance for the sprocket tooth to clear the safety wire? Look at the wear on the sprocket.

[bikeslut 1]

Silicone is more than I use

[jbw 0]

. Is this the 38t rear that you have?

No, and mine is steel also. I guess sun star does not do great research on their claims. I had it before sun star had a 38.

[SteelRain 0]

It looks like silicone is now allowed by some orgs.

However, for racing purposes either wire option is "legal", but I always went with option 1. I never chewed up the wire or lost one. Many guys do not tighten it (or check it enough) and it can slip off.

[Joliet 0]

A chain is just as easy as a front sprocket, once you have it sized correctly

Is swapping chains really as easy as popping off the u looking lock on the master link, pulling off the backing mechanism then sliding the master link out? Then reinstall it with the closed U on the forward side so the U faces backwards?

This guy does it in 5 seconds VIDEO

I use pliers with good square ends (like lineman pliers), and yes it only takes about 5 seconds to remove or install the clip (without any bending of the clip). The tough part is if you use an o-ring chain, its much easier to remove and replace the master link with a chain press. I carry a small Motion Pro press in my tool bag along with a spare master link.

[Joliet 0]

The reason these clips have failed is because of improper removal and/or installation. I have seen people pry them off with screw drivers, use a hammer and screw driver to drive them off, put them on backwards, ect. Even that guy in the video could easily damage a clip ( or loose it)removing it that way. I would trust a clip in good condition over safety wire any day of the week. Also a clip in good condition does not need silicone or loctite to keep it in place. If you have to use safety wire for racing rules, so be it, but if you are not required to, just use a stock clip in good condition and learn how to remove and install the clip properly without stressing the metal.

[bikeslut 1]

A couple of +1s and a lol

A clip that put on properly is at least as strong as safety wire

The silicone can't hurt

I keep a small motion pro press tool in my pack

Lol- if you get your DRZ to 170 mph, let us know

[bikeslut 1]

another discussion that came up as a sidebar to this thread...

"O" ring chains, specifically for the street/sumo set-up on a DRZ... the non O ring chains are much cheaper, and if we're swapping the chains/sprockets to the O ring for dirt, do we need an O ring for the street?

Money talks... people with broken chains walk

what say the wrenches?

[Zenosan 2]

another discussion that came up as a sidebar to this thread...

"O" ring chains, specifically for the street/sumo set-up on a DRZ... the non O ring chains are much cheaper, and if we're swapping the chains/sprockets to the O ring for dirt, do we need an O ring for the street?

Money talks... people with broken chains walk

what say the wrenches?

Personally I don't use "O" ring chains. We never had a problem using standard chains back in the desert racing days and I honestly can't remember people loosing chains because of clips flying off. With a standard chain their is no side thrust to cause the clip to wear through. We did, however wear out chains pretty fast. My brother and I bought 50' rolls of Diamond chain because we went through so many. Hence the advent of sealed "O" ring links which just lasted a whole lot longer in the dirt. I still prefer standard chains over "O" rings. Easy to change and master links don't wear out because of the side thrust caused by the "O" rings. Just don't think you need them on the street.