350thumper 336 Posted September 13, 2020 (edited) Hello errybody.. Hopefully this saves you some money and help you DIY w/ Chain and Sprocket. Sometimes pre-season may notice your chain I robbing you of horsepower. Here's what a worn chain looks like. Notice the links are crinking up like a zig zag. Time to replace. First thing I do, remove the wheel so you can get the rear sprocket off , use special tool here , the bolts are tight. I like to use what I got ,used leverage removing the rear sprocket. Start with the nuts on the back side. After you remove the bolts examine them for rust or corrosion. prepare these bolts by cleaning with a wire brush and a light shot of WD-40. Once you have the old sprocket off, throw it away . Now you have room to clean your wheel.This makes it easier to reassemble. I went ahead and replaced my wheel bearings and tire while i have off my rear wheel. Once the new sprocket is on torque the bolts and securing nuts to factory spec recommendations. After cleaning and oiling your rear axle , go ahead and put wheel back on the bike. The next step is to remove the masterlnk gently with a regular screwdriver. Then carefully ease the master link clip from the link with a screwdriver. Then gently separate the materlink from the chain to remove the chain from the bike. After applying the new oring chain you may notice they come extra long and need to remove a link. I put a small mark on the link that needs cut for reference. use a grinder with a gaurd for safety mine is on the back side where my hand is. Then grind down the mushroomed head off the offending link, being careful to not marr the new chain. then punch out the old link . Once chain is on sprocket, grease the orings and get grease into the link as your applying it. It important not to over tighten the link when pressing it together. It should have same amount of space where the oring sits. Once you have it together place Masterlink clip facing the rear of the bike. Gently clip over prong grooves with plier. Notice how the new clip is facing the rear. Cont'd. Edited September 14, 2020 by 350thumper Yah, ya. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
350thumper 336 Posted September 13, 2020 Don't forget to reapply all of the chain gaurds.. On the XR's chain gaurd is chain freeplay spec information. My chain slider was broken .. Here you want to buy factory OEM chain slider , aftermarket rarely holds up. When replacing front sprocket always use loctite. After adjusting the chain I put a rag in between the rear sprocket and chain then roll bike back a few inches to tighten the chain up so you can torque the rear axle. Remove afterwards. Always use an appropriate axle holder while torquing . try and lift upward while tightening . It's easier to not over tighten this way. When removing wheel always try to push down so you can use your upper body weight for leverage. Replace all covers and tighten as necessary. Tech Tip: use WD-40 wipe down the chain periodically to keep it clean Thanks for watching ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.JAJA 380 Posted September 14, 2020 Dont show the UNSAFE use of tools. No use of open box wrench as extension and Grinder without hand guard. I can show you what can and will happens. Get the right tools for the job. And you can delete this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
350thumper 336 Posted September 14, 2020 Ja, ja, your right don't use a grinder wah/out gaurd, good on ya for bringing that up. That photo of grinder has gaurd (near hand) back side in that shot. Ill pull the photo of the wrenching trick thank you for noticing my craft.. Stay safe on the trail Jaja. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites