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Bluhdow

First Dual-Sport

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Thanks! Yes, case savers are definitely on there.

I think aside from the gearing on the rear I'm pretty much set!

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Yup count the teeth mark with a sharpie or some thing and slowly roll rear wheel that sprocket guards makes it a little hard to see

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I don't think that strategy will work. Can't see the front at all with the guard on there. I'll have to pull it off.

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Should be 2 or 3 easy bolt couple minute job

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Okay, thinking when I go to load up on gear I'll pick up a 44 tooth rear sprocket as well. That seems best suited to my all-around needs. Thanks guys!

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Sounds good make sure to check that your chain will work with both sprocket set ups going 5 teeth difference you might need 2 chains.

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If you leave it @ 15-44, you'll probably have to remove 2 links from the chain. A stock 112 chain will not fit the 15-49.

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I'm wondering if going from 49 down to 44 will be too large of an adjustment (i.e. giving up too much on the dirt side of things).

Would a 47T rear maybe be a better compromise? I would like to be able to cruise at 70, but don't have any need to get above that.

I'll probably buy a second chain as well, just to make it easier to swap back later if needed.

Also, any recommendations on radiator guards? I think it's the only bit of bike protection I'm missing.

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post-122-0-06823700-1438966980.jpg

I have the devol... not as pretty as the unibiker but very strong. Some people have had an issue with the fork bolts hanging up on the guards during full lock; if so, just bend them a bit to miss the bolts

the unibiker guards ARE pretty though. the devol are crude in comparison

as for gearing...try the 47 with stock 15 front. I think you will not be happy with the freeway cruising, but I am spoiled by years and years of 1000cc sport bikes... nothing feels fast enough after CBRs, FZRs and VTRs... my vstrom 1000 felt like a turd in comparison

I have a 44 you can borrow if you want to try it out

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I appreciate the offer!

I think I'll probably go to a 47T and see how I like it. They are cheap enough and it never hurts to have options down the road. I'll also grab a chain that would fit 15/47 (unless you don't think it will be necessary).

I'll scoop up some radiator guards too.

Now the big question is, if I truck out there for a ride is there any chance you would want to help me get this stuff installed? Beers on me! =)

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Just wait until I have a gig in North County and i'll help you install at your place

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Whatever works best for you. I'm on your schedule my friend!

Just be aware that I'm woefully lacking in tools! I've been in small, garage-less, beach apartments for the past 12 years and have yet to start building a real collection. This bike is definitely a catalyst for that project to get started!

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I carry everything in my backpack...really easy install if I remember correctly. Start buying some tools...riding off-road, you will need them sooner or later

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That's the plan. I'll keep you posted.

Thank you so much for your help and looking forward to syncing up!

~Joe

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Yay! More questions!

I've got the Clarke 3.2 tank on there and also picked up a set of Devol radiator protectors. Unless I'm doing something wrong it doesn't appear that these two are compatible. The tank wraps around the radiators tightly enough that the Devols can't fit into the gap.

That said, I did drop the bike during a failed hill climb and noticed that the tank itself provides some pretty nice radiator protection. You can lay the bike down flat with the bars turned in an attempt to expose the radiators and the tank keeps them off the ground.

Anyone else run into this issue? Is there a different brand that is compatible with the tank, or can they be cut down to fit?

Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks!

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Tank is plastic and deforms...- wouldn't count on it to protect that much. I "thought" my clarke was a 2.9, but I could be mistaken

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I did not, but I thought about that after I posted.

When pulling the tank off I don't need to drain the gasoline first, right? The petcock (I think) holds the fuel in? Switch fuel to "off" and start pulling bolts. Am I missing anything?

I'll try and pull a youtube video as well. That was very helpful this weekend for my coolant flush, oil change, and air filter cleaning.

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Closing the petcock should do it; if it doesn't, you have a jacked up petcock and you NEED to replace it; it will cause carb issues sooner or later. As a side note, if you do replace it, don't use the DRZS petcock...do a search. I think I have the WR450 petcock. But it does have to be turned off when parked, unlike the original petcock/tank combo. Yeah...tank requires moving both side cowls, and two bolts under the seat...quick job.

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I've just learned that the vacuum petcock on the DRZ requires the fuel to be "on" when removing the tank. Not from experience. I watched some youtube videos. =)

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Yup agreed the petcock I had was from a yamaha raptor 700 quad but probably same as the wr450 cheap and goes the trick. I had clarke tank on mine no rad guards though can't help with that

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What's in there now appears to be working well. What's the reason for the switch?

I suppose it's also possible that it's already been changed. Wouldn't surprise me since the bike had just about all of the other important mods done. Any good way for me to be sure?

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ha... just kidding. The stock tank has a vacuum set-up. If the motor isn't running, the pet #### "shouldn't" drain fuel. Unfortunately, the petcock ends up leaking, and fill your cylinder with gasoline, effectively locking the engine from turning... and more insidious things like cleaning all the oil off the cylinder wall.

Somebody with mechanical ability, please correct me, If I am wrong.

your Clarke tank does NOT have the vacuum set-up , so the stock petcock is a bad choice.

how can you tell? good question... I would guess you could remove it and read the part number off it.

what are the readings off the side? On, prime and reserve? I vaguely remember that... if it reads prime, it's probably the stock. The replacement has on, off, reserve

stand by while I do a little research

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