blakeNY9

Congrats on the bike. I had the same feeling when I got my 2002 Honda CR250. While your YZ is not the same bike, it is pretty similar with the same purpose. From my experience with the CR250: -it's super light and nimble -the power hit will be a handful in the tight stuff (flywheel weight will help if it doesn't have one yet) -it will be fun on more open trails and flowing two track -it will top out pretty quick in wide open spaces like Ocotillo Wells etc. gearing can help Of course the experience on the CR250 and the 2 stroke wonder lead me to the trail bike 2 stroke. The KTM 300 XCW, way more fun for my style and preference of riding. Will be interested to see what you think.

Does Tree Trail have a number designator? It was mentioned as a side route, what route is it off of?

Would anyone that has re-mapped or re-flashed their KTM EXC ECU please PM me with any details you are willing to share. My 350 is in need of some help after new exhaust end cap, FMF snap insert and TPS adjustments not taking care of the issues. Thanks!

$125. Beggers can't be choosers.

Too close the loop on this thread.... I shipped my ECU to Munn Racing in Texas. They re-flashed to the Euro map. All in it took just over a week. Haven't ridden yet but now the bike fires up instantly from cold and purrs like a kitten. Looking forward to getting it in the trail.

I have used the Zac Speed backpack/chest protectors for many years. High quality stuff. They do distribute the weight very well. The newer models are even better in that regard. I had the smallest one. Can't remeber the model #. It was too small for anything but a day ride. Still a great piece of equipment. Now I have the Dakar. http://www.zacspeed.com/12site/usa/2012-dakar.shtml It is really nice. Lots of room and it fits great. They have good airflow. The pack/protector is big so you have to wear it over a jacket. Not that big a deal. Keep an eye on the screws for the first few rides. The hydration bladder is 3 liters. Pretty big. Don't bite real hard on the mouthpiece, ask me how I know. Just bite easy. Comes with a nice tool pouch too. I've sent email to them with questions and the customer service is really good, same day reply. Ordered it direct from them in Australia and it showed up real quick, like under a week. Had to by a replacement part once, and it was real fast shipping too. I went the same route of wanting to find chest protector and backpack in one. Currently trying this out from Leatt: http://www.leatt.com/shop/chest-protector-4-5-hydra.html Nice rig, things I wished it had: -some kind of protection/padding on the shoulder straps for the collar bone -a little more storage room. once you have 3L of water, theirs just enough room for my tool pouch and some odds and ends. Can't fit a tube in there with the tool kit. -the bladder doesn't have a shutoff valve when you remove the hose like my Klim bladder does, annoying as you have to fill the bladder while in the pack or completely unthread the hose from all the loops. You can buy the klim replacement for $29 or so. Well worth it for the quick release, imo. I've tried the Klim bladder in the Leatt pack, problem being it didn't fit well. The Leatt bladder and pack are wide but not deep. The Kilm bladder is taller and narrower. Not the greatest fit in the pack.

Something I do if I don't have an actual torque wrench handy, is I use my trail wrench when tightening the axle nut back on i.e. if I can tighten it to that point with the trail wrench then I can certainly un-tighten it was well.

Ahh Gold Mountain, love that run up it, both on bike and in Jeep.

I figured you wouldn't be out of the game for too long.

I have used the Zac Speed backpack/chest protectors for many years. High quality stuff. They do distribute the weight very well. The newer models are even better in that regard. I had the smallest one. Can't remeber the model #. It was too small for anything but a day ride. Still a great piece of equipment. Now I have the Dakar. http://www.zacspeed.com/12site/usa/2012-dakar.shtml It is really nice. Lots of room and it fits great. They have good airflow. The pack/protector is big so you have to wear it over a jacket. Not that big a deal. Keep an eye on the screws for the first few rides. The hydration bladder is 3 liters. Pretty big. Don't bite real hard on the mouthpiece, ask me how I know. Just bite easy. Comes with a nice tool pouch too. I've sent email to them with questions and the customer service is really good, same day reply. Ordered it direct from them in Australia and it showed up real quick, like under a week. Had to by a replacement part once, and it was real fast shipping too. I went the same route of wanting to find chest protector and backpack in one. Currently trying this out from Leatt: http://www.leatt.com/shop/chest-protector-4-5-hydra.html Nice rig, things I wished it had: -some kind of protection/padding on the shoulder straps for the collar bone -a little more storage room. once you have 3L of water, theirs just enough room for my tool pouch and some odds and ends. Can't fit a tube in there with the tool kit. -the bladder doesn't have a shutoff valve when you remove the hose like my Klim bladder does, annoying as you have to fill the bladder while in the pack or completely unthread the hose from all the loops.

+ 1 on the BRP mounts. I'm running Scott's on a sub mount with dampening/rubber inserts and with the hand guard mounts. All kinds of cool options from them.

Thanks. That is the route I am likely headed. Is anyone well acquainted with the folks at All American?

Thanks Jim. I've read up on just about everything you've mentioned from stuff on KTM talk to the thread here on SDAR and everything in between. I've decided I'd like to go the remap route as I'm not getting consistent results in my case.

Thanks. Have not gone back to stock setup and put TPS back to .59. The bike runs good it's just not starting very well when cold and is having flame out issues right off idle. Yes, the infamous "LOCKED". But what does that actually mean? People are doing/having it done so how? I'm just trying to find someone to show me the secret hand shake to get it done or provide me that introduction to someone who can help. On a side note, Brad..... did you get my PM on trailer storage?

Is the light plug and play with a battery pack? What battery pack are you using with this light? Can you provide link? Any idea on run time?

If only I wasn't on baby duty!

At what free play gain did you find it worked better than at the perscribed 1/8"? Your clutch disks are fine. They are a lot tougher than most people think. Might want to double check you put the Rekluse drive plates in, in the correct orientation as they are directional. Just trying to think of things that could have easily gone wrong on the install. And you installed the correct number of friction plates and drive plates? You will have some stock friction plates leftover. One of the wedges not functioning properly sounds like it could potentially be the problem. Makes sense that if that was the case it has enough outward clamping pressure at low RPMs but not at the greater force of higher RPMs. The techs at Rekluse will know better than me.

So I up and bought the Rekluse Core EXP clutch, got it all installed, everything within spec. Went for first ride tonight and it is awesome! However I am having one problem, in higher gears (4th, 5th or 6th) when at higher rpm the clutch slips bad. Anybody had a problem with this? I would re-check your free play gain with the supplied rubber band. Are there any other variables in play like aftermarket clutch lever etc.? Just to verify, you are at the appropriate speed for 4,5 an 6 gear?

Wondering if any one here (or a friend) has storage space at their residence or place of business for a 18ft travel trailer? Obviously will work out an arrangement for compensation, but looking to find a better deal than the average storage lot. The closer to La Mesa/Grossmont Center the better and preferred. Thanks.

There is also this product from BRP, a rubber mounted bar clamp that can also serve as a sub mount for a stabilizer. I put this on my 350, and like it so far. https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1885-brp-rubber-mtd-sub-mount-dm-sub-kit-00-15-ktm-125-530-w-oem-tc.html https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1885-brp-rubber-mtd-sub-mount-dm-sub-kit-00-15-ktm-125-530-w-oem-tc.html

I've recently been trying out the Cycra Composite pro bend. I got sick of my hand guards getting bent, so giving these a try. They won't bend, but I bet with just the right hit with enough force and they might break. But much lighter, have held up well so far. I secured them with these from BRP: https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1507-brp-hand-guard-mounts-bmi-9254.html and tapped the end of the bars for a more secure hold.

FYI for anyone looking at graphics, PG Graphics has a 25% off sale, code Santa07 on all items until 31 July.

Not to start an internet debate, just want be sure the info is clear for folks considering this product. The Rekluse doesn't actually do everything for you. When your engine is above idle it is engaged (or disengaged, however you want to look at it) to drive just like a manual clutch. It only automates the engagement and disengagement of the clutch off idle. Of course you can clutchless shift, which with the lever removed I assume you are doing. With the proper understanding of how to do it, I'm a fan of it, just don't want folks to think they can install a Rekluse and never use the clutch lever again without some additional know how of what they are doing. The Rekluse is doing nothing for you in the way of shifting when the engine is above idle. From the Rekluse website: What is an Automatic Clutch? Core EXP, EXP and z-Start Pro are all auto-clutches. An Auto-Clutch is a centrifugal force actuated clutch that automatically engages and disengages the clutch in relation to RPMs. The Auto-Clutch automatically feeds out the clutch in the same way you feed out the clutch lever when starting from a stop. The rider only needs to turn the throttle to increase RPMs, to engage the clutch and go. It is not an automatic transmission, you must shift the gears. The benefit is that the auto-clutch will do the “feed” automatically and consistently, allowing you to be free to focus on other aspects of your riding. All three Rekluse Auto-Clutches allow retention of one’s clutch lever to manually override the auto-clutch at all times. As with any standard clutch, the rider can still “feed”, “fan”, “slip” or “pop” the clutch and do motocross style starts. Rekluse Auto-Clutches are performance enhancing for full sized bikes and ATV’s. See Performance for more info.

What would be killer is if somebody made a small little clutch lever the size of an old school hot start lever like the ones on a CRF / YZF thumper ... ya know that little tiny lever about 1/5th the size of your regular clutch lever you pull in to start while the bike is hot (aka after you crash). If I could have a tiny little clutch lever for my index finger (hydraulic of course) I could then use the other 3 fingers for the OX back break (non hydraulic so I could "feel" it more). Do you know if they make a tiny little clutch lever like this? Mid-west Mountain Engineering makes a shorty easy pull clutch and brake levers. Check them out. I've used the clutch levers on two different bikes, much easier pull. Do have to be careful how you set them up when the Rekluse is installed. I can elaborate more later if need be. http://www.midwestme.com/products.html

Good ride today. I didn't take a single picture. If I could have been quicker, I could have caught Bikeslut on the ground!! Then again I did fall in the parking lot at 4 corners being fancy and going over the parking lot barrier so.... who I am to talk.