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recycled

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Posts posted by recycled


  1. Mikey777. I was drooling over Vanjoosten's SE add, but that is well outside my target budget right now. Though as you mention, but the time I add stuff, I would likely end up at that price or higher by the time I'm done. I only get to ride a couple times a year since I work overseas most of the year so this would be a good long term bike since it is essentially a new bike. At my size, 175 lbs, I agree, I don't need or want anything bigger than the 990. Even that will be a big jump from my last bike which was a DRZ-SM.


  2. I was thinking that someone here may have known who the owner was. Does the price seem in line with current local market? Current KBB for retail is about low 7's but only accounts for the age and not the low mileage. Is there anything specific that should be looked at for the 07 since it was the first year for FI?


  3. Hello all,

    I was looking at the 07 990 that is at Fun Bike Center and wanted to know if anyone on the forum may have an background info or history on this bike. I figure this may be the best place to start before I consider making any offers. Thanks in advance.

    Bob


  4. I think I will be waiting for something around a 450 and under 300 lbs. from the big 4. Hopefully it will be under $8k if it ever happens. Another dream is a baby Tenere based on the FZ-07 engine. For now I have the 350exc in mind to replace to overweight DRZ that I got rid of in 2012, just have to wait for the budget to support it.


  5. I think this was on KUSI with Turko a few years back. I have had the zip tie on all mine for years. Also I placed a header board above the door to minimize the gap when the door is pushed in. Just have to adjust size(1x6 or 2x4 about 3 feet long) and the placement, up and down, so it barely clears the door as it comes upward and inward on the tracks. Of course I also throw the manual deadbolt and go out the regular door if I am going to be gone for more than a day or two.


  6. Has anyone tried these on street bike 17" tires? I tried mounting my supermoto tires and wound up giving up, I couldn't even break the bead without being worried about damaging the sidewall. :blink:/>/>

    This tool is only for mounting the new tires. It does not remove the old tire or break beads. It is simply a hub centric "pusher" device that allow the tire to be stretched over the rim by pushing vice levering with a tire iron. For breaking beads on a super-moto wheel, I favor the 2x4's and trailer hitch method (or some variation of this).


  7. For all the people that expressed interest in the "tire tool" that Afry posted a while back, now is your opportunity to get one. EvanADV on the Adventure Rider site is sponsoring a group buy. The sign up ends on June 30th and below is the link to the sign up page. He is looking for a minimum order of 25 and it looks like the list is growing quickly. I see "Wintyfresh" at the top of the list, is that the same person from SDAR??

    Kaurit Moto Tire Tool Group Buy on Adventure Rider


  8. I'll start by saying that if you count the number of posts in this thread, there will be that many recommended methods of breaking-in an engine :laughingsmiley:/>/>

    I think the old school break-in methods are no longer necessary since the engine building technology has advanced so much over the last 10-15 years. Biggest thing is the oil type used for break-in and ring seating. When we do running in on big engines(250 to 30,000HP fixed speed/variable load) and compressors at work, we use mineral based oils or petroleum based. Stay away from the synthetics or synthetic blends for the first 40-50 hours or so as it can result in glazing of the cylinders and rings and excessive blow-by. Vary engine loading without over-rev. The breaking-in "hard" can still be accomplished without high revs. Think "maximizing the torque curve". Short shifting and moderate lugging of the engine results in a nice increase in firing pressures and temperatures without the high revs. To do break-in on large engines, we do heat and load cycles. 10% for x number of hours, followed by idle for .25x hours, then up to 25% & 40% with the same rest periods, then we run 2x hours at 60%, and ramp up to 80%,90%, 95%, & 100% each for 2 hours with no reduction and finally 105%MCR until all temps and pressures are steady. We use lots of instrumentation so that we can monitor all parameters such as fuel flow rates, exhaust temps, intake temps, firing pressure, etc all in real time.

    Motorcycles obviously are different, but I believe much of this method can carry over. I've done similar break-ins on my previous bikes and never had any problems develop from "improper break-in". Last one was an 09 DRZ-SM.


  9. Looks like there are some good deals available for TE's as well.

    Keep in mind, these are advertised prices and not confirmed prices:

    Berts Mega Mall: '13 TE310 - $5999 (3 units listed)

    '13 TE449 - $6299 (2 units listed)

    Berts

    GP Motorcycles: '12 TE250 - $5099

    '13 TE310 - $5999

    '13 TE510 - $6499

    GP

    Mountain Motorsports:'13 TE310 - $6399 (I actually saw this one in the showroom last Friday)

    Mountain


  10. IMO: Brake pads offer the best improvement(tune-ability, is that a word?) Stainless jacketed brakelines don't improve braking performance as an OEM hose in good condition will easily transfer the pressure from the master cylinder to the caliper well enough to lock the rotor, but the stainless jacketed line surely improves feel and feedback and of course looks cool.

    As robertaccio states, the OEM brake systems perform better than 99% of the riders. Personnaly, I'm lucky if I can utilize 40-50 percent of a bikes capability :laughingsmiley:/>/>


  11. +1 I have the same one and it works well. Kept in a nylon zipper pouch with spare o-rings, links, and a small length of spare chain.

    I needed new chain and sprockets, with the o-ring chain I needed a chain press. These can range from $10 to $100, I wanted to try this $10 model as I may only use it a few times a year and its small enough to carry on the trail if needed.

    DSCN6622_zps76569005.jpg

    DSCN6626_zpsdf078d90.jpg

    It worked perfect, took about 3 min to get the link on with no issues.

    DSCN6624_zps5b07e20b.jpg

    DSCN6625_zps6a58de27.jpg

    For the money this tool is a winner.


  12. It appears that it uses a cellular transmitter to send location data compared to a satelite system.

    "To be able to deliver the best possible communication Trax uses a GPRS QUAD band module and at a later stage a 3G module."

    If you are outside of cell range you would not be transmitting your location. Nice concept and price if you are staying in covered areas. I'll be sticking with spot for now.

    Interesting, thanks for posting.

    apparently it can send anyou alert if the device is dropped, so seems that a button to send an alert instead isnt too far off.. v2 maybe

    Competition is good for consumers, it drags retail prices down..


  13. From Piney Mountain Racing (Craig Dunn) at ADV:

    " I just used the one on his website, arekaurit@hotmail.com. I have never spoke with him, only communicated thru emails. He was in the U.S. and Florida in January and was going to call me but he didn't

    For the tools, he was giving us 25% if we ordered more than 20 tools. I think he gave us the same break on the adapters and optional pushers. When I talked with him about the stands this go around, I think he offered 10% IIRC (but that was to individuals, not really a group buy). "

    Regards,

    Bob

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