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boat440

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Posts posted by boat440

  11. Posted

    Okay, I know my TE has the magic button, but it is really easy to kickstart, even in tennis shoes. Push kickstarter down till it meets resistance, then pull in the compression release, push the kickstarter a little further, release compression release, let the kickstarter come back up and then give a kick, cracking the throttle the tiniest bit.. Use the hot start button if the bike has been dropped or the if it has been stalled in hot weather. :unsure: If the bike is cold, pull out the enrichening knob and give the throttle a couple of twists to get the accelerator pump to squirt a little gas into the carb venturi, then use no throttle.

    Fake, Foney, Fraud

    No e-start capable bikes allowed.

    Please remove the previous post from the record.

  14. Posted

    My DR350 was stolen twice... I got it back with a busted ignition twice... both times, about a block down the street... they couldn't start the thing :dance3:

    lame-o...

    Twice. It must be a really really nice bike, or maybe it wasn't worth stealing, or maybe you have 2-Stroke only criminals.

    BikeSlut you are exempt, please don't post your starting procedure, they might actually succeed.

    In this case the aphorism "less is more" wins, or should I say you. :drinks:

  15. Posted

    WARNING, IF YOU HAVE A RED ELECTRIC START BUTTON OR KEY START STOP!!!! READ NO FURTHER

    SWITCH TOPICS

    YOU WILL BE WASTING YOUR TIME TURN BACK NOW

    For those of you that do it the old fashioned way and kick-start your bike this topics for you. And those old Swedish built Husqvarna owners with the left side kick, you guys get extra credit.

    Ever notice a 2-stroke guy trying to kick start a 4-stroke like a 2-stroke? They kick and kick and kick continuously giving it gas. No luck. You can't tell them about TDC and no gas. All of them kick it like a 2-stroke without any regards to the compression stroke all the while flooding it. Then you hop on the bike and get it fired up on the first kick. Often they look at you in amazement like you have magical powers or a magical leg. Here's the secret for a DRZ400

    1. Gently kick the bike until you feel the 1st hard stop.

    2. Advance the kick starter further until you feel a click or the 2nd hard stop.

    3. Raise the kick starter to the top of the stroke

    4. Engage 1/8 or less throttle

    5. Simultaneously keep the same throttle opening (do not open further) while kicking thru to the end.

    6. Apply a large grin across your face as your 4-stroke fires up on the first kick without an e-start motor & battery

    So what is your starting regiment?

    So how about it Honda XR owners what's your routine??

    Anybody want to take a crack at starting your bike after a fall with the floats open letting gas drip on the ground??

  16. Posted

    not that this helps, at this point... DRZs often are underlubed in a few key areas... This is one of those areas; I just lubes mine, and they were pretty dry, but the races and rollers were in good mechanical shape. Swingarm pivots are another.

    Will the pulled also set the new races? Probably not as big an issue on motorcycles, but if you dont set them well on a mountain bike, you risk knocking the tube out of round, and then it will never turn well.

    Boat; I almost hesitate to say this... I started your bike for Rudy once on the x plane ride. I thought there was a cable hung up or something, just from jostling the handlbars during starting... I shouldve said something.. I mean something other than "those jackasses should not blow intersections!" (pet peeve)

    Borrowed the tool from Tracy (tlking6) thanks. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

    Socalhonka: Not much to see. The forks, bars, gas tank, steering stem and seat is off. PM if you want to look.

    Zenosan: Thanks for the tip (Don), but not much luck with punching from the opposite side. It seems like you need equal pressure from 2 opposing bearing surfaces(no that's not a joke) to remove the race.

    Bikeslut: You are right about lube, but I guess it was enough to last 5 years. All other functions on the bike appear to work, but will check. The jostling you heard is a spare wedge nut inslide the handlebars that previously held the Acerbis hand guard on. I'm replacing the bars with Renthals and even putting on new grips. And yea, yea yea, I owe you for taking off. The road showed so close on my GPS, I thought all were following.

  17. Posted

    On the last ride I noticed the steering on my trusty DRZ400 was quite notchy. I removed the Scott's Steering Damper to the same effect. Meaning the once smooth circular side-to-side movement had become non-uniform, jerky and nearly difficult to move. :)

    I guess after >7 years of dependable service (it's a 2001), it was time to inspect and lubricate the steering head bearing. (I believe I cleaned/lubricated them when I installed the Scott's Damper over 5 years past, oh well).

    Upon inspection the taper needle bearings were rusted, did not ride smoothly and were pitted. Furthermore the upper and lower inner races exhibited similar characteristics including small wear grooves permanently laced into the once smooth 60 Rockwell case-harden races.

    So after spending $86.10 plus tax on some new NTN bearings (Escondido Cycle Center had them in stock), I am off to remove the inner race bearings.

    It appears the races are tightly press fit into the steering head (which they should be). After several futile tries (gently) with a hammer/screwdriver, I realized I need a tool made for the job. It appears a bearing race removal tool of some sort is needed. Before I use the Gorilla tactic (which never works) and wack this thing hard, I thought I might get some additional opinions. It would be ashame to put the new bearings in without changing the races. I've attached a picture of the inner race.

    1. Does anyone know if a tool of this type exists?

    2. What are your experiences with this type of repair?

    3. Where I can borrow one? I'd gladly pay for the usage?

    4. Do any of the local shops loan out tools(highly unlikely)?

    Thanks for your inputs.

    Where are you at in North County Boat? I'm in Vista and have a seal, bearing removal tool that would probably pop that right out.

    Thanks for the response Tlking6 & Dirt Dame.

    I'm quite close to you off of Del Dios Highway.

    I'll PM you. Thanks.

  18. Posted

    On the last ride I noticed the steering on my trusty DRZ400 was quite notchy. I removed the Scott's Steering Damper to the same effect. Meaning the once smooth circular side-to-side movement had become non-uniform, jerky and nearly difficult to move. :)

    I guess after >7 years of dependable service (it's a 2001), it was time to inspect and lubricate the steering head bearing. (I believe I cleaned/lubricated them when I installed the Scott's Damper over 5 years past, oh well).

    Upon inspection the taper needle bearings were rusted, did not ride smoothly and were pitted. Furthermore the upper and lower inner races exhibited similar characteristics including small wear grooves permanently laced into the once smooth 60 Rockwell case-harden races.

    So after spending $86.10 plus tax on some new NTN bearings (Escondido Cycle Center had them in stock), I am off to remove the inner race bearings.

    It appears the races are tightly press fit into the steering head (which they should be). After several futile tries (gently) with a hammer/screwdriver, I realized I need a tool made for the job. It appears a bearing race removal tool of some sort is needed. Before I use the Gorilla tactic (which never works) and wack this thing hard, I thought I might get some additional opinions. It would be ashame to put the new bearings in without changing the races. I've attached a picture of the inner race.

    1. Does anyone know if a tool of this type exists?

    2. What are your experiences with this type of repair?

    3. Where I can borrow one? I'd gladly pay for the usage?

    4. Do any of the local shops loan out tools(highly unlikely)?

    Thanks for your inputs.

    post-2031-1233016602_thumb.jpg

  21. Posted

    We are all (mostly) GPS savy. If it does not exist, let's start a list of websites that offer Trac X-Changes?

    Most of the websites use .gdb or .gpx (Garmin) formats. Some do offer other formats such as Magellan or Lowrance. All of the listed sites below are free to join. Some require the first time user to contribute a Trac before thay can download (from the user's collection).

    Most of the libraries contain hundred's of Trac's for Southern California (by far the most popular) and beyond. Most are grouped by region or state.

    Quite a few SDAR members are contributors and are using the same screen names.

    I have used some of the more popular Tracs's (Mohave, Mammoth lakes & Big Bear) without issues. Please be aware that some Tracs' may encounter closed gates, private property or closed (illegal) area's. The user uses the Trac's at there own risk. Finally some of these Tracs may be the property (IP) of the creator. I have seen Trac's removed that did not have the permission of the creator that were purposefully copied. This practice incourages users to develop there own Tracs before posting.

    Strega is this a topic we may want to add to Geek Night?

    http://www.gpsxchange.com/

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37

    http://www.sundaymorningrides.com/contribute/

    http://www.everytrail.com/

    http://www.treknow.com/free/index.htm

    Here are some, are there others?? :ph34r:

  23. Posted

    It's pricey, but it does half of what is advertised it is well worth putting in the fanny pack. Right next to the cable ties and roll of black electrical tape. :spiteful:

    Do they sell this at Home Depot, Loews or an equivalent home center?

    Thanks for the head's up Trophy Hunter!

  24. Posted

    Hey did any other groups find any B1 aircraft remains?

    I believe it was Bikeslut & Tmtno who found pieces of the wreckage.

    It's hard to believe with the environment codes and >25 years passed that these pieces were not removed. :spiteful:

    There was some aircraft grade aluminum spars, magnesium sheets, bearings, aluminum hoses and other parts.

    Did anyone snap a picture of the remains? Please, please don't post any from the B1. The pictures may be top secret, copyrighted, contain valuable IP and do not have the permission of the owner(the US Air Force). :rolleyes:

  25. Posted

    Thanks for the great ride C-Dad/Strega this past weekend. What a great start for the 2009 riding season. I'm looking forward to X-Plane 2010. Maybe an annual ride???

    Please let me know if you need help with a Death Valley ride. I've attached a ride I put together during September 07. Some of the SDAR riders participated.

    Thanks, Boat440

    Ok this time with attachment (.txt file). Save it your desk top, then rename with .gds. Then open in Map Source.

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