Jump to content

boat440

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    277

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by boat440

  4. Posted

    Very nice post, old stomping ground memories from a Huntington LI, kid . who rode single track "all over" Eastern LI in the mid eighties on an '84 KDX200,,,,,where???

    "if we told ya we'd have ta kill ya." R

    Same here mid-eighties LI rider.

    Southhampton, Manorhaven, Pilgrim State Hospital, Kings Park Hospital, Commack road, many local sand pits off of the LIE or Sunrise Highway and many winery areas on the north fork.

    Bikes:

    Honda XL250, '74

    Yamaha IT175, I think it was an '81

    Yamaha TT600, '82

    Husqvarna MX430, Maybe an '86(Was special in that it was the last pure-Swedish built bikes before being sold to Cagiva)

    Husqvarna WR250, '92

    Does any one know if Thomston Dam in Connecticut or the NJ Pine Barrens are still open?

  5. Posted

    Motocross is still alive on LI with 1 track.

    It's located in the town of Yaphank

    http://www.islandmotocross.com/

    There's also an Long Island Off-Road vehicle association. You might want to read the struggles LI has faced regarding off-road use. The battle was lost.

    http://www.liorv.org/

    Prior to 1993 the LI Pine Barrens was open to legal riding. Then the NY State's Long Island Pine Barrens Protection Act defined the region (100,000+ acres) and it was lost. It's now a protected wilderness.

    .

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_Island_C...al_Pine_Barrens

    The same is happening to California.

  6. Posted

    Some good suggestions, here's more.

    * Remove the jumper cables unless you do not have a kick-start back-up

    * "Space Blanket" for winter rides for protection against the cold/elements

    * 1-2 flares for remote rides should a helicopter or park ranger is searching for me

    * Aluminite (small aluminum flake product for fixing small radiator leaks)

    Thankfully I never had to use them :)

  8. Posted

    Had a 1996 XR600 leftover. Congratulations, you made a great choice for a 1st bike. And if you keep it looking nice, since it's fully depreciated, most likely you can re-sell in 2 years and get the same price you paid.

    There is, however, always a temptation to change out the exhaust, it is highly visible and easy to do.

    The reality is the XRL is heavy, underpowered and undersuspended compared to today's standards, but it is stone reliable. You are best to set the bike for your riding style, comfort and improvement reliability.

    Ask yourself these quesitons:

    Have the wheel, steering head or swing-arm bearing been replaced?

    Has the motor or gear box been re-built?

    Has the CDI been replaced?

    Has the fork or shock fluids/seals been replaced?

    New air filter?

    What about optional accessories, does it have off-road tires, steering stabilizer, hand protectors, skid plate?

    The bike is 12 years old and is based on an engine design from 1985. It is best to save the $ with the new exhaust, performance gains will be minimal.

    Also try this website. Lot's of hop-up tips for the XR600, but some should apply for the 650:

    http://www.justxr.com/info/

    See you on the trail...

  9. Posted

    What do you like? Redwings owns the reputation, but Timberland, Wolverine and Carhartts show up a lot as well.

    Oh- they have to be black.

    Suggestions?

    A vote for Carolina Work Boots. Still have them from the late 70's as a construction worker. Although they have not been used for quite some time.

    http://www.carolinashoe.com/category.asp?CatID=284

    Plenty of black styles to choose from. Boot World carries them. Use the store locator. There website even says some of their products are still made in Morganton, NC.

  10. Posted

    I think Arnie is just trying to provoke a hue and cry of outrage so that he can try again to drum up support for increasing revenues and/or cutting costs.

    Forest, You hit the nail on the head.

    Most (not all) services that the state provides is for the poor/illegals. By closing state parks this now effects the middle & wealthy(which do not consume nearly as much state resources) .

    Therefore making it easier for Arnold to raise taxes.

  13. Posted

    Getting ready for the Big Bear run. Start early, you will need the time. I saw the route. Some surprises. ;)

    CHEATER! ;) (PM me the details :blink::( )

    Tarnish the Crawdaddy integrity???

    Riding sweep, sorry no special PM's advanced details given. :lol: You will just have to wait for the 27th.

    Will have plenty of those "cheap" spare tubes and CO2 cartridges available.

    Let's just say you will ride

    ___p

    __U

    _P

    U

    which was typically

    d

    _o

    __w

    ___n

    ____d

    _____o

    ______w

    _______n

    Enjoy!!!

  14. Posted

    The UHD cost is $32 versus $12 a standard tube.

    $32??? :blink: .....ouch......I don't spend that kinda $$ on tubes so I guess I must just run heavy duty as opposed to ULTRA heavy duty ;):lol: ......anyway, I run heavy duty and carry normal just because it's easier to pack/carry, it's lighter, and they're easier to change when hot/sweaty/pissed off out on the trail......I seem to be able to pinch flat ANY TUBE on the 620 "Exxon Valdez/Mother ship".......I think Doug's right, pinch flats are gonna happen regardless of tube.......it's more of function of air pressure .....and nails are gonna blow through any tube.....even gold infused $32 specials

    CDaddy,

    Did not go with the "Heavy Duty", but went straight to the "UHD". I do not know what qualifies a manufacturer to label their product UHD as compared to HD. Is their a standard for the labeling/differentiation.

    Got the MSR UHD from Motorcycle Superstore for $31.99. Also picked up a trails MT43 tire (rear) at MS as local stores I shop do not carry. Yes, will carry standard duty tubes as spares as they are smaller/lighter and easier to install.

    http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superstore.co...ibtnSearch.y=30

    Agree no tube can completely stop puncture/pinch flats.

    I have been searching Dirt Rider/Dirt Bike articles for comparisons, with no luck. Without any conclusive scientific study, hopefully the extra expense, and common sense of the thicker tube will reduce the probability of occurance of these events. That's good enough to spend the extra $.

    Any comments on the Dirt Ball concept?

    Getting ready for the Big Bear run. Start early, you will need the time. I saw the route. Some surprises. :(

  15. Posted

    See below an UHD "Ultra Heavy Duty" tube (on left) versus a standard duty tube(on right). They are both for a 18 inch rear rim.

    This is my 1st purchase of this kind of tube. I'm trying in combination with a trials tire. The UHD cost is $32 versus $12 a standard tube. For the extra money you receive (~2x) greater overall size (tube thickness) which translates to a higher weight/volume increase. Hopefully the UHD tube will provide a superior resistance to failure with a higher quality rubber compound & increased durometer.

    But given the inconvenience of changing a flat on the trail, having the better tube is well-worth the extra insurance.

    Anybody have experiences of a measurable decrease in pinch flats or punctures with this tyoe of tube?

    Thanks...

  17. Posted

    Today's Board Statistics:

    Our members have made a total of 40359 posts

    We have 769 registered members

    The newest member is womantriker

    Most users ever online was 166 on Dec 16 2008, 02:49 AM

    21% of all registered members were on-line.

    Is that 2:49 AM PST or maybe Singapore (+16 hours), India (+12hours) or others time.

  18. Posted

    If' there's one thing I learned from our ride up there, it's that I will always start the Big Bear run with a fresh knobbie. I may throw on a trials tire for this years run and give it a shot...

    While no tire is optimal for all conditions, alot of guys are running a Pirelli MT43 trails tire with 8 lbs of air pressure with UHD tubes. I haven't tried it yet, but a few of the guys I know swear with this set-up for rocks. Perfect for Gold Mt, John Bull, Delamar, Redondo, Bald Hill & others.

    I'm in working the event as a sweeper.

    Where to buy:

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/29/...-Rear-Tire.aspx

    Reviews:

    http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/392/1963/Mot...ire-Review.aspx

    Comments:

    http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/showthread.php?p=939708

  19. Posted

    So.

    Is this a dead deal?

    Hey FN, I went on that ride. Real windy. I still have the tracs.

    The first day was fun and not to tough, 95 miles.

    The 2nd day was hard. The waterfall (really tough step-up, required 3 spotters to get your bike over) was tough and some steep hills (both directions). I can probably remove some of day 2 difficulty and it would be a great ride for all. That will give us time to walk thru Burro-Schmidt tunnel.

    I'd be willing to help. Have lots of tracs decribing the ride and other side rides.

    Let me know.

    But I still can't use that Distance to Destination feature :lol:

  20. Posted

    "But can you really eat the batteries? Founder and CTO Neal Saiki explains, "The best technology is coming out of Canada, and Canada has clean facilities. These are 100 percent non-toxic batteries. You can cut them open and eat them. They're just a salt that is tightly bound. Because it's a salt inside these they're landfill approved in the United States and Europe."

    I'm so glad you can eat the batteries. This way the CPSC cannot forbid this vehicle.

  22. Posted

    ...I've been trying to think of a way to get it out without destroying it. When I get around to greasing my steering head, I'm going to have to take it out whether it needs it or not.

    And thanks for the tip about getting the bearings in easily by putting them in the freezer.

    2Wheels: First inspect before removing. No need to take the races out unless they are pitted/worn and need to be replaced. My needle rollers were rusty, worn & pitted and the races had permanent tracks worn into them. I made a decision to replace them, since I intend to keep the bike.

    If they are not worn, you can easily clean both upper & lower outer races while in the steering head, best not to take them out. The inner races and needle bearings(rollers) are also quite easily accessible and easy to clean. Use a degreaser to remove the grease residue and dirt, let dry overnight, then grease them up good and reassemble..

  23. Posted

    Contested charges and shipping parts back (shipping receipt required by credit card company....fair..)

    Incredibly poor customer service and delivery a month after ordering & canceling. :angry:

    Trophy Hunter, that sucks.

    Every time you contest credit card charges it lowers your FICO score. Even if you were not culpable and the charges were removed. :lol:

  24. Posted

    Not sure whether you've gotten the bearing out yet, but here's a improvised tool that may work.

    Link in Google Books to an article in 1960 Popular Science:

    http://books.google.com/books?id=1CoDAAAAM...esult#PPA129,M1

    Thanks 2wheels & tlking6. Wow, where go you find this stuff. From June, 1960. I was a month old.

    It would have been difficult to find a washer with the exact OD needed to grab onto the lip of the bearing race. Instead I used a die grinder to cut the bearing races in half and they came out easily.

    The races were a line-to-line fit with the steering head so I let them cool in my freezer overnight and they slide right in.

    After water-proof greasing and pre-loading with the triple clamp nut the side to side steering movement is now smoooooooooooooth.

  25. Posted

    Borrowed the tool from Tracy (tlking6) thanks. Will let you know the results tomorrow.

    I plan on packing mine ('07) with grease later this year so I'm just wondering what kind of tool you used and how it worked out.

    A tool is not needed to repack bearings. You will need a large Crecent wrench, 30mm socket (I think) or spanner wrench to remove the steering head nut. I used the socket. Let me know if you need to borrow. The top bearing slides up and off the upper triple clamp and the triple clamp space bar (this holds the triple clamps together & in-unison). The bottom bearing is attached to the triple clamp spacer bar and the lower triple clamp (assembly). Good news for you 2Wheels is both bearings are easily service removable for grease repacking.

    A tool is needed to remove the upper/lower races that the taper needle bearings ride on. It appears there is a slight interference/pressure fit of these races into the steering head tubular slot. Another (male) tube is welded into the steering head (female) tubular slot to space and seat both upper/lower bearing races.

    Right now the tool that I borrowed from tlking6 does not work for this application. There is not enough material for the tool prongs (fingers) to grip the race while the tool impacts. This occurs since the races sit on the thin (but not thin enough) male spacer tube as described above. Upon usage the tool disengages the race portion. Modifying the tool may work(decreasing the tool finger width).

    For now I have elected to use the brute force methodology of removal. I used a small disc cut-off tool (Dremel type) to slice the bearings in opposing locations. Yea, I know it's barbaric. I hope I won't regret. Will provide final resolution.

×

Important Information

  I accept