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I live in Poway.

I have a two bolts that sheered off in the subframe while riding on Sunday (I figured that would have atleast required a crash). I cannot get them out.

Beer, Pizza, whatever we can work out if I can get this taken care of before the weekend. I can come to you if needed. Basically I am hosed. the The sheered bolts hold the battery box on just like number 27, but are not shown on the fiche.

Thanks guys!

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module...512/Group/FRAME

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Got a pic of the van damage? And what size bolt?

IMG_0801.jpg

IMG_0799.jpg

IMG_0800.jpg

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What size tire are you running? Any offset with the new rims?

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steelie, you need to take a sharp punch. put the point of the punch on the end of the broken bolt against one of the sharp edges of the fracture.

tap gently with a hammer against the punch in a counter clock wise direction to back out the bolt.

option 2, get a small drill bit, smaller than the bolt diameter, drill a hole down the middle of the broken bolt. home depot sells a tool called an "easy out". you tap the easy out into the hole you drilled, and you turn it out counter clockwise.

both ways work easy, you can do it on your own

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what size are the bolts? I have a left handed drill bit / extractor set you could use (if I have the right size)

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Drill bit and extractor set...let me scare some stuff together. Can it wait til Saturday or can you swing by mt work later in the week?

Center punch a hole in the remaining bolt...drill a hole, then use the extractor (tapered reverse thread insert) to remove it...use some sort of penetrating oil and maybe some heat first

That should work...

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i actually prefer option 1 with the punch. it doesnt cost anything if you have a punch or even a nail.

once the bolt is sheared off there is no tension on the head of the bolt. the bolt turns out easily, you just need to use a punch or nail to turn it.

that bolt looks like a 10mm head 6mm bolt x 1.25.

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I jumped to a conclusion that was incorrect...that the heads were removed with a wrench

Now that I think about it, the bolts being loose would be more likely for both to shear than if they were over tight

Give it a whirl David- as kelly says; no loss if they don't turn

Kelly; bonus points for mettalurgy and date of manufacturer

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Kelly,

Thanks for the advice, I will try it now. problem is there are not many (or much of a) sharp edge to work with.

Bob, I can come your way or you can come mine, assuming this does not work.

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Well, there are no jagged edges, at least nothing large enough for me to get a nail, a tiny drill bit, or anything else I have against.

Bob, Anytime that works for you works for me.

My idea of getting a new subframe (earlier this week) may become a reality I am concerned I will not have parts for a major upcomming ride if I do that though.

JBW, I am using a 19inch rear. However, I busted the box on a very mellow day of riding and there is no way I compressed the back end that much.

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Sears

Bought a similar set for these times. Free to borrow 'em if ya need to. I'll throw them in the car.

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thoughts in a post homemade cookie, white russian, & 12 hour day....daze

thought might be possible loose....SIMULPOST ALERT!!! ......nevermind since loctite possible...might not be "loose".

B)...just thinking "in quiet"(*like exact opposite of out loud, short of keyboard tip taps anyway)

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Sears

Bought a similar set for these times. Free to borrow 'em if ya need to. I'll throw them in the car.

Problem is I don't have any experience with those... Meaning I am a little timid about it.

Beer? Pizza? a reasonable sum of cash?

...and ummm... I may have used locktite on them several years back... maybe the red stuff. I can't remember.

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Do they have locktite on them? If not try a squirt of oil in there and take a scribe and try to unscrew them. (I know what you are thinking, but it works more often than not, however it works better in steel than aluminum) If that doesn't work, stop at the hardware store and get a left hand drill bit, I don't mean Home Depot, I mean a hardware store. Center punch as mentioned above and as you are slowly drilling, put more pressure on the drill and usually the bolt will come right out. If it doesn't come out with the drill, then try the easy out.

If it does have loctite on it, you should first apply some heat to neutralize the loctite, before trying these other methods, because getting a broken bolt out is so much easier if it doesn't have a broken easy-out or broken drill bit in it.

What part of town are you in? I will be in the shop in Vista if that is closer for you. Good luck. Ken

Looks like everything in my arsenal has already been mentioned (sounds like some of you guys need to invest in some torque wrenches, you have way too much experience at this B):):lol: ) Still not sure what town "super secret squirrel location" is in, but it you are close and want some help, the offer is open.

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I'm around tomorrow, I have a set like Trophy's, and I have a torch for heat.

Number in member's thread.

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i have a tap and die set with most of the parts still there in case things get nasty.

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Heat, easyout and Paul or Ken doing the work. That should be the ticket! B)

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JBW, I am using a 19inch rear. However, I busted the box on a very mellow day of riding and there is no way I compressed the back end that much.

Ah, any idea then of how it happened?

might still be worth taking a look at the battery for signs of wheel contact and just looking to see if interference could happen. I bet even a mellow ride results in a good amount of suspension compression. A 19" wheel is one inch larger diameter than stock. I was thinking more about the width of the tire though.

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might still be worth taking a look at the battery for signs of wheel contact and just looking to see if interference could happen. I bet even a mellow ride results in a good amount of suspension compression. A 19" wheel is one inch larger diameter than stock.

It is a SuMo, so the rear is 2" larger than stock. I have checked for rubbing/contact as that was my first suspect, if it was rubbing I would have been using the battery in the airbox trick.

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If you're going to drill out the sheared bolt, use a left-hand drill bit as hoss 314 and Joliet have already mentioned. Center punch it first so the bit doesn't walk around as you're starting to drill. You can borrow mine, but they only cost about $10 at Harbor Freight and you'd probably spend more than that in gas driving to the South Bay.

I had a sheared bolt in my DRZ sub frame about a year ago and I was going to drill it out then use a screw extractor. I never even got to use the screw extractor as the sheared-off screw came out as soon as the left-hand drill bit began to bite. I posted a how-to thread about it somewhere on SDAR.

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