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robertaccio

1997 KTM300EXC (overlap project)

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Always add "insulation" "gasket" on metal skid plate to chassis mating faces. This time I used standard E tape in 4-5 layers. On my Husky 610 I used cut pieces of radiator hose. 

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I like to insulate my metal skid plates as well. I find rubber foam weather seal tape works pretty good too.

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9 hours ago, TexasDualler said:

I like to insulate my metal skid plates as well. I find rubber foam weather seal tape works pretty good too.

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many great ideas and choices , another friend always uses cut pieces of inner tubes another good method. of course this is for the metal plate installations. My 21 uses a HD plastic plate, I dont feel the need for insulation on those type , but I guess you could if you wanted.

 

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In addition some mud rider folks use closed cell foam to fill the space between the engine case and plate to avoid mud build up (extra weight)

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BTW "Moose Racing" (Parts Unlimited) has replacement skid plate clamps in the catalog , all 4 are those, the ebay plate had none.

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Yeah I don't use anything on my plastic plate either. I was skeptical at first when switching to a plastic skid plate but it's held up really well over years of abuse. One thing I really hated about the aluminum plate I had prior was anytime it took a decent hit it would get bent out of shape. Then I'd have to take it off and hammer back into shape the best I could but it would never really be perfect again. I got tired of doing that over and over again. Plastic plates have a little flex to them so it's not such a big deal if they take a hit.

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10 minutes ago, TexasDualler said:

Yeah I don't use anything on my plastic plate either. I was skeptical at first when switching to a plastic skid plate but it's held up really well over years of abuse. One thing I really hated about the aluminum plate I had prior was anytime it took a decent hit it would get bent out of shape. Then I'd have to take it off and hammer back into shape the best I could but it would never really be perfect again. I got tired of doing that over and over again. Plastic plates have a little flex to them so it's not such a big deal if they take a hit.

also the alloy ones are super loud. all the top world enduro offroad guys use plastic ones now, AXP etc.

Edited by robertaccio
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Prepped and reinstalled the carburetor. Pulled of the flywheel and media blasted it, pulled the stator plate and wire harness, cleaned up entire zone, reinstalled stator plate with new hardware, plugged in harness with dielectric grease, sealed rubber feed through gasket with 1211 three bond, reinstalled flywheel and put on the cover with a new gasket.....done as far as I can go in the ignition side of the crankshaft. Have not checked spark will do later, I have a new CDI unit and a new/used coil to throw on, if needed. 

Carbby is back on nicely and prepped with a new vent tube kit OEM Keihin style pink clear tube type. 

New rear brake reservoir to master cylinder hose installed just need to check the route, on this bike the reservoir is separate in the LHS and of course the master cylinder is on the RHS. 

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Engine is all buttoned up...but will open clutch cover for inspection and dump gearbox oil for Redline 80W Synthetic. Needs Evans non-aqueous coolant fill up (bullet proof). Needs a finish job on the Head and Tail light connections. Graphics are all in place with exception of 1997 World Enduro RED number plate back grounds and some homage to Farioli KTM Race bikes of the era. Ignition notes after a full clean up of the system she makes good spark , even with the cracked OEM Kokusan CDI unit, but since I payed for an all new unit the new one is installed. Photo shows the old unit with fork leg impact damage. Carb went on easy and is jetted per FMF spec. new vent hose kit installed. She is very close now, best news is,  we have good compression and spark!! we just need fuel, Motorex at Euro style 2% Miscela (50:1) .  Need a few more hoses as well, fuel line and tank vent hose. I have on the shelf new rear Shinko 216MX FIM 140/80-18 and an almost new Michelin Enduro Medium FIM 90/90-21 tire and some perfect used Mousses and pieces if required ready to install. Chain appears good and I will clean and reinstall it. Debut will be soon, most likely at local trail zone. Before I reinstalled the rear linkage I fully lubed it with Maxima grease, so that's dialed, just need a little exterior brushing on the links to clean them up from old dirt and oil stains

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Edited by robertaccio
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about 96% complete another final assy mockup, WHT Gio Sala number 101, more electric work, proper hardware, chain and some other little jobs. Very close to the start up.

 

 

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I was hoping the fuel valve seals would still be good, with 2 strokes a lot of times seals stay well due to the oil content in the mix...but nooooo she leaked like a sieve, I even pulled it apart and treated the orings and face seal with silicone spray and grease ... still leaked so.... All Balls universal KTM petcock rebuild kit on the way. Filled rear brake reservoir and bled feeder line - rear brake is solid!! After I get this going, I will pull the F and R discs off to blast them and get the corrosion off. New pads as well. Front needs a full bleed it is at zero pressure.

PS Cleaned up chain (RK O/Xring) and installed, needed a link cut so did that, still need to adjust axle position (back). Installed A new Shinko 140/80 MX216 Rear with Michelin Mousse pieces and a Used good/fair Michelin Enduro Med 90/90 with Nitromousse complete and stuffed with a Michelin mousse piece. I usually dont mix but it's what I had in the bin. Used water-based tire soap/grease for this installation.

Edited by robertaccio

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National City Motorcycle's Rob is servicing my front brake (bleeding, he is the king), Yes, I can and have done many times, but it's one job I hate doing!

Will have the Moto Tassinari V Force 3 reed assembly this week and at that time of installation I will finish the wiring for the lights. 

Final home stretch. 

I did ride her up and down the street shifting is great and clutch feels good, I/m running my new favorite Red Line Synth Gear oil with their shock proof additive. This oil is amazing and smooths out transmission bigtime. My TE300i is like butter as will this machine.

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Finally finished, V Force 3 reed cage and all electrics hooked up. All good. Runs strong. Need a little Mix and idle screw adjustment.

Note: everything is for sale....(with a few exceptions) all offers will be considered, many will be most likely discarded..... but heck you never know.

Will bring to my Sedlak Offroad Class this weekend so I can run/test her in the dirt in a controlled environment.

 

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Field testing will commence on Sunday 2 April at the SOS/Sedlak Offroad School location in East County. A nice, controlled environment for the 3 stroke.

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tested on Sunday 2 Apr at the SOS class. way too rich and possible clogged PJ. Installed smaller MJ (2 sizes), centered needle, recleaned entire carb including jet block assy. lowered float height a tiny bit, blew out PJ. Ready for round 2. She should be very close to spot on.

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2 hours ago, SpaceCowboy said:

When's the next test? Eagerly awaiting the results with a jetting adjust

not as expected.....had removed and oil up the seal on the jet block.... but now I have a rebuild kit on order with all fresh seals.  just gotta keep bangin away, . i will re remove jet block and install new seal. This will be first back in the carb.  so more time still before she goes on the sales block

 

Edited by robertaccio

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On 4/7/2023 at 1:58 PM, SpaceCowboy said:

When's the next test? Eagerly awaiting the results with a jetting adjust

This weekend again. I re-pulled the jet block and installed a new jet block seal. The old one was crap...Now she comes down to idle!! Still runs a bit weird around the street. Needs a full Off Road day. MJ at 165 should be good at alt/heat season, want a good clean idle and smooth transition from bottom to top. This era of 300s are notorious for finicky jetting. I need to find my bag -o jets!!!! Anyway as is I should be able to get her good with mix screw and needle position adjustments. Mix is OEM/Euro standard 2% (50:1) with pump premium.

BTW this was the first day in the dirt , on pipe fine, but I had to jockey the throttle to keep it going while it burbled down low. Looks proper on the trail, can't say I look bad either !!!

 

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After chasing tuning she is going back under the knife- new crank seals and possible fresh top end. Back step to 85% complete. My carb rebuild work made her better but there is still an issue. Seems to be eating wet side of crank, grearbox oil. She will be for sale after I'm done. And if someone wants to throw cash at me now as is......I'm thinking 2K obo

Edited by robertaccio
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On 4/28/2023 at 10:42 AM, robertaccio said:

After chasing tuning she is going back under the knife- new crank seals and possible fresh top end. Back step to 85% complete. My carb rebuild work made her better but there is still an issue. Seems to be eating wet side of crank, grearbox oil. She will be for sale after I'm done. And if someone wants to throw cash at me now as is......I'm thinking 2K obo

Up for a trade? I have a few bikes on the chopping block 

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