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simicrintz

Stripped front axle nut-help please

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1st. Only non experience mechanics need a Torque wrench. 

2nd. this is a BOLT with a stem and outside tread. A nut has a INSIDE tread.

3rd. The called 10mm Nuts are real a M6 Nuts, with a 10mm HEX Wrench

4th. If you tighten the right side, the Axle should not spin anymore

I never use a Torque wrench, exempt on engine work like Cylinder head, Crank shaft, connecting roads.

 

That said: tighten up the right side M6 nuts only hand tight, push on the left fork bottom toward the hub and tighten the left side M6 nuts, this will create a gap between the Bolt and lower fork end. Take 2 screwdriver and pry between the Bolt and Fork and have a second person turn the Bolt Counterclockwise.

You need to get some PULL Load on the Bolt to grapp the stripped tread and the bolt will come out.

 

 

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A nut is a type of fastener with a threaded hole. Nuts are almost always used in conjunction with a mating bolt to fasten multiple parts together.

 

 

Call me:

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Yes, the axle nut (or bolt as defined by Mr. J) is threaded on the outside of the sleeve area. It threads INTO the inside diameter of the axle. Grind off two flats surface perpendicular to each other and get a crestwrench on it. If that doesn't work, just start grinding that sucker off. You might end up needing a new axle and axle nut (sorry, bolt) but that's not going kill the bank.

As far as torque wrenches...yeah, no, I always hand tighten my axle nuts (damn it, bolts)...

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https://www.ktm-parts.com/OEMFINDER.html#/KTM/450_EXC-F_SIX_DAYS_CHASSIS_-_2019/FRONT_WHEEL/261f6d2d-1863-4411-834a-77eab6d94df5/450_EXC-F_SIX_DAYS_CHASSIS_-_2019_FRONT_WHEEL

Part 32 in the explosion in the Bolt.

What Mr. JAJA  suggested.  Insightful, in that it will creat a space between the fork pinch area and the thin mushroom head of the Bolt. You can then file the thin edge flat top and bottom to turn out the bolt. Also will allow oil to access the threads.

 

Luck to You

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Just got back from work party at Moms.  Got alot done for her, but nothing done on the bike :(

First of all; you guys (and gals) rock!  I am feeling confident that I am headed down the path to success; just need to get back out and on it again.

Second-torque wrench is going back!  I am going back to the hand tighten by feel method, like mentioned.  Stupid idea to go down this path.

It has been fun determining the correct term for this item, and going to the site Bagstr provided it is called an axle screw!  

I will try to get back to it in the next couple of days.  Thank you all for the input; I will keep you posted on the results!

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I deal with striped bolts and nuts every day. I got ideals. You still need help  ?? I am close 

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Thanks, Ken.  I might appreciate you taking a look and throwing out your knowledge as well.  I'm pretty confident with all the suggestions that I will get it, but since you are so close I certainly wouldn't mind your eyes on it if you have a few minutes!

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7 minutes ago, simicrintz said:

Thanks, Ken.  I might appreciate you taking a look and throwing out your knowledge as well.  I'm pretty confident with all the suggestions that I will get it, but since you are so close I certainly wouldn't mind your eyes on it if you have a few minutes!

Mon late Afternoon eve??? I will bring some tools from work  ??

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I have a 3:00 in Escondido off of Del Dios; should be home by 4:00 or so.  That's awesome, Ken; you remember how to get here?

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LB's suggesting of making some flat spaces and using a pipe wrench has worked for me on many stripped heads.  Works like a charm.  You can also grind a small notch on the high left side and hit down with a hammer/screwdriver which will drive the head down and starting turning it counterclockwise.  Left loosey....I would not put any WD4-0 or any lube on it before doing this since you are just making the surface harder to grip.

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I'm gonna learn something here for sure!  And I am returning the torque wrench and never using one again!

I'll keep you all posted when it is off; I promise!

PS Just saw your PM, Udo; I will try and give you a shout tomorrow.  Thank you!

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1 hour ago, simicrintz said:

I have a 3:00 in Escondido off of Del Dios; should be home by 4:00 or so.  That's awesome, Ken; you remember how to get here?

No but I got your number I will text you before I head over. 

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From now on Bruce maybe use Austrian Torque Specs: Gutentight!  

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cut a slot with a Dremel tool use a big slotted screw driver. ( or use Dremel to carve the flats smaller to smaller size ) use a hex shaft with a wrench on for leverage also use some heat... but truth is cold may be better...alloy into steel.  or drill it and ezout it work up size as required.

 

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Something that has worked for me many times in all my years loosening rusty bolts on a ship built in the 1970’s, get the next size down socket, preferably a 12point, and hammer it onto the rounded bolt. It should grip it well since it is soft like you said. Then get an impact wrench and go to town. Make sure the axel pinch bolts are tight on the other side. 

Also just throwing this out there since we’re discussing mechanics, make sure you’re using the proper sized torque wrench. Your torque value should fall between 20-90% of the range of the torque wrench being used. In other words, you shouldn’t be using a 150lb torque wrench for 25lbs of torque. 

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The Aluminum tread on the bolt is stripped, not rusted, corroded or seized up. If the "Aluminum Bolt" spins free in the Steel axle, no oil, anti seize will help. One way to get it grabbing again is putting a Pull on the Bolt and turning it CCW, with the axle fixed. With the right socket like this you still can turn the bolt.there is enough meat to grab on and spin the bolt under pressure with a power tool. With the pull force and CCW spin you will grab the bolt inside and it will spin out. 

socket.jpg

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Just buy a new bike.  Holy hell !  Be done with this madness already.....     

  • Haha 4

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The Kug stopped by after work and got it out!!!  Thank you, Ken!

He brought his bag of tricks: chisels, hammer, torch and we (well, he) tried to get it unstuck-that nut/screw/bolt is super soft!  Finally we (Ken) grabbed an angle grinder and cut some relief in the thing and chiseled 2 sides off; that seemed to release some pressure and allowed him to easily turn the nut/screw/bolt.  I think in the end it was the suggestion from Mr. JAJA that we remembered to release some of the pressure with some cuts.  It seems that the shoulder bit into the fork portion as the threads were clean and easy to spin out by hand.

Ken and I both thought this was weird; this thing is hollow in the middle.  It appears that it is more of a glorified dust cap than anything; the 10 mm bolts are really what is holding this all together.

Torque wrench going back tomorrow.  Huge thanks again to the Kug for coming by and figuring this out.  Some pics of the carnage to follow.

Front axle screw 1.jpeg

Front axle screw 2.jpeg

Front axle screw 3.jpeg

Front axle screw 4.jpeg

Front axle screw 5.jpeg

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You are 1 Lucky camper to have Ken un-explode that bomb for you. 

    👀

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I agree, and I was able to enjoy a cold Sam Adams with him afterwards!  I definitely owe him more than that!

And I definitely owe all of you that provided input another thank you!  When the new nut comes in I will be using anti sieze (thanks to you, Bagstr) and tightening by hand only.  Thank you all again for your help; it is part of what makes this page great and is worth way more than the couple bucks it costs to support the page 🍺🍺

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