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MacDuncan

box end torque wrench in San Diego? oil drain plug?

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Well Golly Gee.  I have the "normal" gathering of tools for most tasks, but dang, maybe I need a box end torque wrench to go with my 1 ft/lb and my in/lb torque wrenches.  Is there anywhere that I might find one in San Diego for a good price?  Or, how the heck do you tighten (to torque specs) the oil drain plug on a KTM 525.......since I can't get a socket, extension and even/or a 1/4 inch swivel in there.... besides holding a wrench in a vice near by and using muscle memory to match the force :) .  Thanks. 

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I just do mine from feel . I replace the copper washer every year or two. It should be every time . Be carefull because I have heard of some guys cracking the case. 

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Thanks fellas! 

Kug, you would have laughed if you saw me put my socketless torque wrench in my vise at the same angle that I would use to tighten the bolt and use a couple fingers at the 6 inch away mark (same distance as the wrench that I would use) and practice the amount of force needed before the click.  Fairly confident in my muscle memory,  maybe.... so skid plate back on and ready to roll..... although...

Given Carguy's idea, I may remove the plate and try a crows foot end since I have to go to Harborfreight today for gloves and a couple things anyway, I will look for a 13mm "crow's foot end".  The torque specs state 20 Nm, or 14.75 ft/lbs or 177 in/lbs on my 11 inch torque wrench.  If the crow's foot adds 2 inches to the length of the wrench, so I am thinking that I should reset the wrench because I will have increased force...  sound right?   Therefore, if my torque wrench is 11 inches and if the attachment is 2 inches more to center, I should reset my torque wrench at 149 in/lb.  [13/11 x = 177, so x = 11/13 times 177] .  likely I am over-thinking this, but better to think out-loud in SDAR presence than to over torque the plug.   Your thoughts welcomed as this newbie has a lot to learn :) 

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I bought a 6 point box wrench set just for doing the drain plug on my 525's. I probably was putting them on tighter than spec, but never wanted one coming loose on a long ride. Then when I'd go to remove them the corners would round with a 12 point wrench. No problems with the 6 point.

 

CiD

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2 hours ago, MacDuncan said:

Thanks fellas! 

Kug, you would have laughed if you saw me put my socketless torque wrench in my vise at the same angle that I would use to tighten the bolt and use a couple fingers at the 6 inch away mark (same distance as the wrench that I would use) and practice the amount of force needed before the click.  Fairly confident in my muscle memory,  maybe.... so skid plate back on and ready to roll..... although...

Given Carguy's idea, I may remove the plate and try a crows foot end since I have to go to Harborfreight today for gloves and a couple things anyway, I will look for a 13mm "crow's foot end".  The torque specs state 20 Nm, or 14.75 ft/lbs or 177 in/lbs on my 11 inch torque wrench.  If the crow's foot adds 2 inches to the length of the wrench, so I am thinking that I should reset the wrench because I will have increased force...  sound right?   Therefore, if my torque wrench is 11 inches and if the attachment is 2 inches more to center, I should reset my torque wrench at 149 in/lb.  [13/11 x = 177, so x = 11/13 times 177] .  likely I am over-thinking this, but better to think out-loud in SDAR presence than to over torque the plug.   Your thoughts welcomed as this newbie has a lot to learn :) 

The easiest way to do the math is put the crows foot at a 90° so the overall length isn't changed much and just use the original torque value. No math needed

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Thanks again, 

CID, yep, a bit surprised how it rounded so easily, I'll buy a new oil plug to exchange with next oil change.

Billy 650, although the logic hurts my brain a bit, it does seem to make sense, even though there seems to something askew with that 90 degree offset - haha

Jim, I get it, don't bother, the copper compression washer makes up for a fairly high plus-minus range, so just (kug) snug it up :)  

Bags, nice link, also nice to see that my intuitive thoughts about mechanical advantage were validated.

When I change the oil next, if I remember, I will make a permanent marker dot on bolt and case, slightly untorque, and then retighten just to see how close I got it by hand by looking at the dots re-alignment.  I would do it now but it might jeopardize the crush washer and don't dare want to waste any of that very $ expensive oil.  So on to the next project - cheers.

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Been doing it by feel since the Big Bang, or CID's 1st birthday, whichever was first... :heh:

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What Billy650r said...

If you can, use the crows foot on a torque wrench at a 90 degree angle to the wrench. Then you don't need to do all the calculations because your "lever arm" ("e" in Bagstrs formula) is then essentially not changed.

Or...tighten it up until your elbow clicks.

 

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