REV5 0 Posted April 9, 2015 New bike update: These are the products and adjustments that I've found so far for the new bike and I would like to share with you. I'm also open to your comments and ideas. Factory bike comes pretty lean for epa reasons. So I made the bike run more rich by adjusting TPS from .58 to .67 helped with bottom end power but I did notice that it was stalling a bit easier and I think that has to due with the stock end cap. So for stock I would probably adjust the TPS to about .64. Im not going to dial that in until the new parts get installed today. New parts: Best Dual Sport Bikes (Dave Simon) - "The SNAP", slips inside the airboot helps with air flow -"The Grunt" exhaust manifold , smaller ID help with HP -"PQP" end cap which allows the exhaust to flow more freely. all upgrades will up the bottom to mid range power and add a bit more HP. Not that I need it. I guess I got sucked in to the bling After tomorrows ride I will update on how the bike performs. -Graphics kit from Powersport Grafx. This is a new to me graphics company. I thought they had the best looking graphics. Cheers, Ty Photos! Don't know if I can wait to see the new beast until Apr 18th! You can always meet us tomorrow at PV. cough cough...I think you're coming down with something. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
REV5 0 Posted April 9, 2015 Great protection along with the TM Designworks chain guide... ohh nice, I will add that to the list thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bp619 104 Posted April 9, 2015 I have all same mode grunt snap and end cap with tps set to .71 wouldn't start good cold until went that high but end cap from best dual sport bikes was crazy loud over stock I love how quiet stock is and went down to .66 on tps and works great. I was also getting lot of de acceleration popping with end cap now back to stock a lot better and quiet with no noticeable power loss. I'll have to get that chain guard thing. I'm definitely worried about the hose going to have to figure something out or take off braces now I have larger tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 406 Posted April 9, 2015 install the 350SX hose kit from CV4 or Samco the thermostat will not be there. anymore, one less thing to fail on the trail. I have been removing T-Stats from all my dirtbikes since they started putting them on (all enduro bikes euro type from their street use logic) OEM KTM chain guide is top tier (yes BRP and TMD make great stuff) the OEM hard partscatalog bracket guard is good because it does not require any drilling or tapping in the swingarm, I know one brand even taps the vent/drain hole and uses it for a mount screw, those vent holes are engineered to vent the hollow swingarm (or you could drill another hole and add another potential crack starting point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 406 Posted April 9, 2015 install a nice slip on FMF muffler, its a better choice. the same one Tim and Andy have is the best of the best materials or step down to the aluminum/steel set up to save $$. The weight of the OEM muffler is a detriment compared to the Ti/CF 4.1 you will feel a difference in how the bike handles stuff with light can (that heavy thing is far away from center of mass) as long as you are going there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
REV5 0 Posted April 9, 2015 Nice Robert thanks for the info cv4 will be ordered today. Good to know because I was going to return the rad braces. Ti cf 4.1 only 4lbs thats great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 406 Posted April 9, 2015 example of muffler weight savings and handling improvement- 2011 TE310 Husky OEM (DS-Street legal) muffler 8.5 lbs Arrow (OEM sourced high quality Italian muffler/system) installed OEM Arrow TC250 MX Ti muffler right at 1/2 the weight of the TE muffler, ps kept the dB-S/A plug in the Ti muffler (quiet and S/A compliant). this weigh savings was instantly felt especially in LSCD stuff like whoop sections. so all those little power up things ......need to be balanced with handling items. PS the PowerCommander 5 (with best of all or without the autotune) is the best way to tune your FI (or other top brand tuners Bazazz for example, I just know about DynoJet research PC5). TPS is one dimensional but effective as many know (just has the ECU add or subtract fuel rate everywhere throughout the RPM range at the same rate). This is not a dig on the TPS thing it is effective and lots of folks do it, but it does have high tech weak points. OK not to go deep or to cause some big "oil type thread" but when testing for "EPA" they have RPM test parameters for noise and emissions. so they run the machine at say 4K RPM (think when you get your car smog tested). This is where the OEM focuses on the muffler dynamics and the fuel emissions, so maybe at 1000 rpm which = a certain TPS the actual mixture is at optimum 14 to 1 but at 4k they have it ECU tuned at (actual numbers are unknown-examples for reference) at 15 to 1 to pass smog. so bump the TPS number the ECU richens your mix across the board so now you get fat at 1000 rpm but are spot on at 4k......4k feels great and even sounds better but she is really off in other areas (but still runs of course). Crew member's DynoJet test mule FE350S was actually fat at WOT and high RPM in its OEM dyno run-- this is probably to keep it safe as the bike is designed as a road going machine, after DynoJet got the PC5 dialed in with it all the mix numbers thoughout the RPM range were consistent, the only other thing done was to tweak the latest good news thing about PC5 it has a "accelerator pump" feature for rapid throttle movements. My 2 cents. when pros tune an FI they tune it at various spots throughout the RPM range for a multitude of reasons or desires, to not only get the mixture ratio correct but lean it or fatten it for sharpness or smoothness. My more 2 cents. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drabnor 0 Posted April 9, 2015 I didn't fall for the BDSB stuff. Just desmogged, checked the tps setting, euro map flash, and removed the sound screen in the tailpipe and she rips... Hey Drabnor How do you like the EU map? and how is it different from stock? Big difference! I love it! Stock my header would get really close to glowing red, and the end cap of my muffler would vaporize any clothing that would touch it(lost a good jacket to that). Now with the EU map the bike does not feel like it is lean all over the place and it runs a lot cooler. Didn't chart what my mpg was stock, but I'm still getting over 50 mpg now(haven't tested exactly yet). I'm sure the bike made more power when it was super lean, but I was not comfortable with it I just felt it would cause damage to the motor eventually... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtnmanseth 0 Posted April 9, 2015 I didn't fall for the BDSB stuff. Just desmogged, checked the tps setting, euro map flash, and removed the sound screen in the tailpipe and she rips... Hey Drabnor How do you like the EU map? and how is it different from stock? Big difference! I love it! Stock my header would get really close to glowing red, and the end cap of my muffler would vaporize any clothing that would touch it(lost a good jacket to that). Now with the EU map the bike does not feel like it is lean all over the place and it runs a lot cooler. Didn't chart what my mpg was stock, but I'm still getting over 50 mpg now(haven't tested exactly yet). I'm sure the bike made more power when it was super lean, but I was not comfortable with it I just felt it would cause damage to the motor eventually... 50 mpg... WOW. I opted to go with a carbureted race bike instead of fuel injection this time around, but that fuel economy/range really was hard to pass up. So far my Beta only gets ~30 mpg. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 406 Posted April 9, 2015 even at this point and at this level of tech, for what we do I feel better about a carb, after coming from 2 FI bikes (1 Mikuni system , 1 Keihin System) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
REV5 0 Posted April 14, 2015 Tested the new mods last Thursday. Rode 3.5 hours 36 miles 90% technical. Definitely noticed the difference in the bottom end. It was snappier from 0 to mid. The decel pop was gone and no stall issues. Ill ride it like this for a bit then get the FMF Ti slip-on to save some weight. Still waiting on the CV4 hose kit to eliminate the thermostat. Then Ill be able to install the rad. guards. Also replacing stock coolant with XF2 coolant. I bought two in case someone needs or wants to try it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeNY9 0 Posted April 14, 2015 Tested the new mods last Thursday. Rode 3.5 hours 36 miles 90% technical. Definitely noticed the difference in the bottom end. It was snappier from 0 to mid. The decel pop was gone and no stall issues. Ill ride it like this for a bit then get the FMF Ti slip-on to save some weight. Still waiting on the CV4 hose kit to eliminate the thermostat. Then Ill be able to install the rad. guards. Also replacing stock coolant with XF2 coolant. I bought two in case someone needs or wants to try it. Dibs on the XF2. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertaccio 406 Posted April 14, 2015 note XF2 is a nice further refinement of the XF1/Evans motorsports non-aqueous coolant. XF2 is 100% ZipTy designed and formulated and is quite a bit/noticeably less viscous/thinner than the XF1, its almost like water in consistency, these formulas perform. My TE300 has been flushed of XF1 and now has XF2 in it. Added note I believe that ZipTy just developed it further and has a additive that increases boil temp even higher and turns your XF2 into a cool purple color. PS I don't get paid for these statements. From ZipTy Racing Engineer "I have a new additive coming, turns XF2 purple and increases max temp to 405°F." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
