Goofy Footer 539 Posted December 30, 2014 Help me prevent Sitting Bike Syndrome In the next few months I'll be moving my bikes to a garage on the other side of town. My schedule will be changing and I'm unsure of how often I'll be able to ride and which bike will get used etc. I anticipate an erratic schedule and that my bikes may end up sitting for long periods of time . I would absolutely Loathe picking up the bike at 5am and driving two hours to the desert only to fire it up and find that the gas is bad, the jets are plugged, the tires have a flat spot, the battery is dead or a host other Sitting Bike Syndrome symptoms!! Realistically I'm not going to fire up my bike at 5am and wake up all the neighbors for a "spirited" test ride before I load it onto the truck. When I want to ride I want to ride! I'm okay with doing some preventative maintenance when I park the bike. Moto Maintenance Doctors, I Seek Your Counsel: -Run the carb dry? Will this get enough of the gas out to not cause an issue? -Drain the float bowl? On my DRZ400e the new extended fuel screw makes it impossible to fit a 14mm socket in there and drain the bowl. -Drain the gas tank? Is this needed on plastic tanks or is this a carry over from metal tanks? What about the o-rings on the petcock running dry and cracking? -Spray WD-40 into Bottom of the Carb? I heard that the Honda baja race teams drain the gas tank, float bowl and spray WD-40 into the carb through the float bowl drain when they transport / store bikes -Fuel Stabilizer? Fill up the gas tank completely, run the mixed gas into the carb, leave the carb full of gas? I've read about this for guys who "winterize" their bikes in the colder climates -Ethanol Free Gas? Drain the regular 91 octane gas from the bike and have a small amount of Ethanol Free gas to pour in the tank and then run through the carb? Do I leave gas in the carb or run the carb dry? -Screw it, Buy a Fuel Injected bike? Not out of the question... -Have One Bike - Less Maintenance! Again, not out of the question... -Battery Tender? Yup! -Bike Stand? Should prevent flat spots in the tires -Tire Pressure? Should I leave the tires at a specific pressure? -Bib Mousse and Heat? Any issues with Bib Mousses being exposed to a potentially very hot garage over a summer? -Plug the Exhaust? -Wash the bike? Would be nice to have a clean bike but there may be water deposits, residuals from hard water that could linger. -Compressed Air to Clean Electrical Switches? What about using compressed air to blow dust/dirt from the handlebar electrical switches -Air Filter Maintenance? Should I leave the filter oiled (might be an issue with alcohol in the filter oil breaking down / separating). Or should I clean the filter after the ride and let it dry, then apply fresh filter oil before my ride? - I kind of like this idea so long as I remember to reinstall the filter! Please share some tips/insight that works for you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wintyfresh 46 Posted December 30, 2014 Started running the carb dry on the DRZs, they've been left to sit for a couple months and fire right up w/o issue. I do try to put a little seafoam in the tank when I remember to. Haven't noticed any tire flat spotting, pressure's left at whatever they come back with. The petcocks do leak a little at first but the seals must swell because they stop. Maybe consider one of these airbox covers? http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTUEOW/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 887 Posted December 30, 2014 Ride more often.....if you don't use it, you lose it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Afry 1 Posted December 30, 2014 Run StarTron in fuel but drain if going to sit for more then 3 months. Always drain float bowl and run out so pilot jet is dry. Don't plug exhaust due to potential condensation, instead pull plug and spray small amount of diesel fuel in cylinder and turn over a few times. Put plug back in and go to go next time. After washing bike spray entire bike especially switches with wd40 to displace water. 6 months or more pull air filter and stuff rag in intake. Store air filter in plastic bag. Don't forget to pull rag before trying to start bike...ask me how I know. Drove from Ramona to Adelanto for MX and bike wouldn't start...missed all practice..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted December 30, 2014 If you leave treated fuel (StarTron / Stabil) in the carb filled what happens? --my drze carb drain is a royal pita to access. I might have to take a cheap wrench and grind it down make it thin enough to work on the plug bolt since the extended fuel screw gets in the way Arnie, you recommend treated fuel And running the carb dry? I appreciate the input! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hobiee 28 Posted December 30, 2014 Definately get every trace of fuel treated or not out of the carb. Even your treated fuel will be bad if left for any amount of time. Ethanol equals death. I personally like SC1 over WD40 as an after wash spray down but that's up to you. I would put them on a stand and remove the air filters and cap off air box. Clean the air filters and store dry. Make sure chain is lubed as well and call it good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken S 164 Posted December 30, 2014 Just get your SDAR buddies to ride your bikes for you a couple times a month. We'll help you out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 887 Posted December 30, 2014 Your DRZ didn't sit for all that long and you saw how green it was. The fuel does bad things to motorcycle carbs. Run it dry, drain it, either way will be ok compared to leaving it full of fuel. I let mine sit with fuel if it's going to be a couple of weeks between rides, otherwise I do my best to drain or run them dry. You know what to do! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirt dame 559 Posted December 30, 2014 I drain my carb after ride. I use Stabil Marine Formula (the blue stuff) in all my gas. I don't have to drain the gas tank, unless the bike will be, or has been sitting for more than six months. I never seem to have any problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted December 30, 2014 hobiee: Good call on storing the air filters clean and dry. I think my UNI air filter gave out in baja due to the alcohol based NoToil separating after sitting on the filter for 6+ months. Steve at C&D mentioned not to let filter oil sit for too long because it breaks down. dirt dame: The Marine (blue) Stabil seems more potent than the traditional red - I'll look for that. hobiee: Maxima SC1 is great stuff - I forgot about that product and actually already have some in the garage. Ken and tntmo: more bikes = more problems! I hope to ride so much that I never experience Sitting Bike Syndrome. What do you think about spraying some WD-40 into the bottom of the float after I drain the carb? tntmo - can I use your grinding wheel to file down a 14mm wrench? I can bring over cold beer and you can watch some sparks fly! I need to figure out a solution to drain the DRZe carb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TrophyHunter 15 Posted December 30, 2014 Tom may be out at the desert & I have a wheel if ya need it. It's not mounted so you have to hold it with bare feet (works best). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted January 14, 2015 Update: 1. I drained the float bowl on the WR250f today after riding in Death Valley this weekend. After the ride I ran the bike until it died and still had a good amount of gas left in the bottom of the float bowl which came out when I pulled the plug. 2. Talked with Trophy and BlakeNY9 about washing bikes - they both mentioned DRYING the bike either by taking it for a ride or using a leaf blower to get water off the chain and electrical components. 3. Maxima SC1 will make your bike and garage smell good. It's especially useful if you just drained some gas and it's stinky in there. I still need to figure out a solution to drain the DRZe carb. --> Does anybody else have issues with an extended fuel screw making it hard to drain the carb? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted January 14, 2015 With the extended fuel screw and carb vent, the clearance around the drain plug is very tight. It's a 14mm nut and I think a very thin wrench may work but does anybody else have another tool recommendation? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hobiee 28 Posted January 14, 2015 Goofy This may make life easier for you. http://www.ifixit.com/blog/2010/11/30/a-wrench-for-tight-spots/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted January 14, 2015 Goofy This may make life easier for you. http://www.ifixit.com/blog/2010/11/30/a-wrench-for-tight-spots/ Very cool - I'll look into those. I've also been researching bicycle tools. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted January 14, 2015 Has anybody ever seen this Ebay FCR Deep Drain Sump from the UK? $18 part but $23 shipping yikes! It looks like an interesting idea and would allow one to drain a carb quite easily. Granted, a 17mm wrench can work easily enough on bikes that have an accessible carb. This last picture is from a Yamaha and has the quick drain valve for sale deep drain sump bolt for all yzf wrf crf crx kxf and any other 4 stroke that uses the Keinen FCR type carb (see pics) standard type i have sold loads of these bolts to people with crf250-450, wrf250-450 and crf150r kxf250-450 yzf250-450 rmz250 and they have all been very pleased with them. look at my feedback to see. a few months ago i was trail riding in wales. it was a very wet ride and towards the end of the day my bike started to play up. i had gone through various water crossings and deep puddles. i didnt have the 17mm spanner needed to remove the drain plug on the carb so i had to carry on until i got back to my van. when i removed the drain plug there was a blob of water and some dirt in the bottom of it. i thought that if i was able to remove the drain plug by hand then i could have sorted the problem out earlier in the day. so when i got home i made a new drain plug. it worked really well and i also made it deeper to give more distance between the dirt and the main jet. this also seemed to improve the throttle response on my wr250f. i have since made several more and the guys that i ride with have fitted them to their bikes. i have also fitted one to my sons crf150. the ones that i have on my bike and my sons have been modified to have a quick drain valve fitted, so i now drain the carb without having to remove the drain plug. all i have to do is press the valve and any dirt or water in the float bowl drains out. this can be done in seconds. its just what you need when your in the middle of nowhere without spanners. i am selling the standard drain plugs for £12 and modified type for £15 (please see my other listing for the modified quick drain type). this listing is for the standard type. these plugs fit the Keinen FCR type carbs and you can use your original o ring. please look closely at the pics and make sure you have enough room between the carb and your gearbox for it. the standard sump plug is about 25mm long once fitted and the quick drain type is about 32mm fitted. they would fit other 4 stroke bikes that have the same make of carb as long as you have the room for it. if you would like one making for a bike that i havnt listed then please mail me and i will see what i can do. postage is £3 for UK recorded delivery. please allow a couple of working days for delivery. cheques must clear before i will post the item. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 539 Posted January 17, 2015 Thinking more about this... if I run the carb dry and drain the float bowl do I run the risk of having the rubber o-rings in the carb dry out and potentially crack? Even in summer? Seems to me that the petcock gasket always leaks a little after it's been dry for a while and then stops leaking after it re-soaks with gas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
