Goofy Footer 549 Posted May 23, 2014 There are some KTM RFS experts on the site and I'd like to pick your brain: What were some key changes in the KTM RFS model line between 2000-2007? What improvements/refinements do you think were valuable? If looking at an older RFS, would you retrofit the later model improvements onto the bike and if so, which ones? Motor? Frame? Suspension? Electrical? Dare I say "best years?" Thanks for the info! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted May 23, 2014 2003 carb is the latest flat slide fcr 4t carb. The old 2002 tilted kehinin ones had problems with cracking and being sucked into the motor. In 2003 the put better suspension and upgraded the engine with fixes for the cam bolt that could unscrew and go boom. The 2003 cam gear has this piece welded in. In 04 05 they updated the plastics. That's basically it. You would Def want the new cam gear and latest fcr carb so it doesn't go boom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted May 23, 2014 Great info Spaugh, thank you! Helpful info like this is awesome when window shopping used bikes because there are so many options to choose from. Do you know if the starter or electric system was improved on later models and if so how much? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amgems 79 Posted May 23, 2014 The stators were weak on all those years as far as I know. I had an '07 and it was weak. The fan would run the battery down, and the stator couldn't keep up. Replaced it with a Trail-Tech stator. It was just a little bit better. I think there was someone out there who would rewind the crummy rfs stators. Some did a mod to "float the ground" and that improved it some. Pretty sure the Starters were all good . My '07 handled really well once i got the suspension adjusted. Setting sag most importantly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted May 23, 2014 03 was the last year of the two bolt seat, subframe changed with 04. Also had twin exhaust pipes from the head to the silencer. Small difference in the rear brake caliper. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vacman 0 Posted May 23, 2014 I have a huge magic box of spares if you end up picking up an RFS bike including a spare stator and reg/rec so don't stress on that too much. Remember that only the '07 was factory street legal but virtually any plated RFS is in no danger of losing its plate IMO. Early bikes could be registered for the street before the cutoff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted May 24, 2014 the '03 is the second best dualsport bike ever created by nonspecifichigherpower. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kkug 168 Posted May 24, 2014 Tim I thought you had one and sold it ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 2, 2014 2000-2003 had two header pipes leading to the silencer while 2004-2007 had a single, larger diameter tube. Is there any reason for this? Does one have better flow characteristics or is it mainly a cosmetic upgrade? Also, are the silencers interchangeable between the two designs? kkug - I had one for a few months - CiD has it now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted June 2, 2014 Silencers are sorta interchangeable. The early muffler has a big dent in it to provide clearance at full compression for the brake caliper. I believe the later models changed the caliper. There is speculation the twin tubes in front are superior for low-end exhaust flow ( something about scavenging) and that why the second-best dual-sport bike ever made has it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vacman 0 Posted June 2, 2014 2000-2003 had two header pipes leading to the silencer while 2004-2007 had a single, larger diameter tube. Is there any reason for this? Does one have better flow characteristics or is it mainly a cosmetic upgrade? Also, are the silencers interchangeable between the two designs? kkug - I had one for a few months - CiD has it now. Just buy it already. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 2, 2014 I'm just doing some research... What are common RFS issues and upgrades? -water pump gasket -countershaft seal -loose primary nut -others? Fixes: -Dave Hopkins sells a cam chain tensioner which seems to quiet the RFS rattle. -DJH also sells a steel primary nut that allegedly doesn't explain like the aluminum and won't loosen as much. -Is the DJH main bearing oil deflector hokus pokus or does it really work to improve bearing lubrication? I'd love to hear your thoughts! Thanks for the tips! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spaugh 1 Posted June 2, 2014 Why do you want another one if you didn't like the last one Tim? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tntmo 1022 Posted June 2, 2014 Countershaft drive seal leakage is common, easy fix. Axle adjusters corroded/frozen into swingarm is another common issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 2, 2014 I forgot about the axle adjusters - easy to prevent once they're out. Good call, thanks. Brad - I didn't jive with the other bike and didn't want to throw a ton of resources at trying to make it work for me. In hindsight it might have been a setup and/or expectation issue. If the right opportunity arose again, I'd consider another bike to experiment with. No model is perfect and I'm trying to do some upfront research seeking the experiences of riders/owners who I personally know and trust. I appreciate your input so far in this thread as I know you have wisdom on RFS and WP components. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted June 2, 2014 Brad - I didn't jive Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 3, 2014 If you aint jiving you aint ridin Sir PMB, can you share some known RFS fail points? I haven't taken my second sip of the koolaid but there is a chance I might go for my 2nd round soon. On the electrical side of things, I seem to remember a thread where dsfox says she carries an extra spark plug boot and/or coil because they can fail? Am I off base here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted June 3, 2014 I wouldn't know..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Afry 1 Posted June 3, 2014 You probably saw this but... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373580 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 3, 2014 I wouldn't know..... Right.. So, care to share some items/issues that I should pay special attention to? Sharing some wisdom might help bring you closure. You probably saw this but... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373580 No I hadn't seen this ADV thread - thanks Afry. I see that you now have two 525s, what have you fixed/upgraded on the bikes? You're a good wrench, what are your thoughts working on the RFS? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulmbowers 236 Posted June 3, 2014 I wouldn't know..... Right.. So, care to share some items/issues that I should pay special attention to? Sharing some wisdom might help bring you closure. I had closure with the last piston-cracking failure- very happy the bike went to a good new home. Let's see- these are random thoughts, not prioritized: Wheel rear wheel bearings- check often for notchy. Chain- looser is better- can't really be too loose. Drill hole in bottom/rear of swingarm to allow water to escape. R/R rear adjusters with never-seize Each tire change, remove caliper body from it's floating pins and regrease pins I tried all kinds of rear sprockets, and have settled on cheap steel sprockets. Yes, they weigh more, but I run 4mm UDHD tubes so who cares? Replace kickstands before they fail- and they will. PMB are my favorite. Use TrailTech stators, but they can fail, even when passing resistance checks. Use a radiator fan and radiator guards Kibblewhite valves are a no-brainer. Just do it. There's nothing like a big-bore with a big cam and a bored carb. Fire-breathing monster. Yet, I won't do it again. Polyresin skid plates. Rekluse clutch, especially the current version which allows one-adjustment bump-starts, are GREAT. I like a voltmeter installed on the bike. RFS bikes were not designed for dualsport use, and the charging system is not the most robust. You can make it more robust, though. I had a fantastic headlight that was amazing. But when compared to the latest LED technology, it was overly-complicated and plagued with problems. Front wheels crack at the welds- I had two crack, and found another when I was shopping for a used replacement. Use an A60 and be done with it. Clarke tanks fit over KTM radiator fans, other tanks don't. Yes, you can use the computer fan setup with the other tanks. Evans NPG as coolant will prevent boil-overs. But if you get it hot enough to boil over Evans (say, in the Sierras outside of Benton Hot Springs) you're likely in trouble. Evens will not prevent overheating, just boilovers. Use it carefully. Yes, the DJH steel primary nut is the shizz. Yes, the DJH kit that re-routes the carb venting system is also the shizz.Carb vent hoses will suck IN dirt to the carb, and the stock vent system will allow the bike to stall in a fairly shallow water crossing. That's all I can think of right now... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 4, 2014 Me gusta el shizz Excellent, thanks for the detailed reply PMB! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vacman 0 Posted June 4, 2014 Me gusta el shizz Excellent, thanks for the detailed reply PMB! Why all the sudden interest in RFS, Tim? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bubbagums 46 Posted June 4, 2014 Front forks alignment is critical. Upgraded radiator guards a plus. Stock kickstand = pos. Upgrade lowest oil drain plug to prevent stripping. I drilled and safety wired my stator bolts after 2 failures. The clutch lever fades with heat and too much oil in the cases. Check your oil level in the sight glass after an oil change and fully being warmed up. Use this as a reference. When mine is full the oil barely shows in the sight glass. O rings in carb deteriorate with age and our crappy gas. Check and replace 3 O rings on the carb inlet, the O ring on the needle seat and the O ring on the fuel screw. The latter caused my bike to pop and overheat. Simple cheap fix. It is alleged that certain coolants cause excessive cam wear where the water pump seals ride on the cam. The stock seat is just a little better than a 2 x 6. Find a skid plate that is easy on and off as this will aid in oil changes. I have read tons of threads on oil coolers and on the fence as to their value. Dino or syn oil is a huge debate and can be argued forever. Last rumor I heard is that the KTM factory peeps switched from synthetic to dino oil as the synthetic oil does not get as hot and therefore didn't transfer the heat as well as dino oil. Debate on. I run Shell Rotella and change it often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofy Footer 549 Posted June 6, 2014 Bubbagums thanks for the great reply! Interesting that you say front fork alignment is critical on the WP forks - George from Suspension 101 is very big on fork alignment, I'll have to look into that more. Strange that you've had such bad luck with stator bolts (which I'm assuming you loctited prior to failure). Too much heat from the oil? Any thoughts? I did notice that a quick removal skidplate dramatically helps in oil changes on the RFS motor. I appreciate the tips on the carb O-rings, cheap little parts but they have meaningful results. Do you run magnetic and/or aftermarket oil drain plugs? I hear the stock ones suck, get stuck and strip out easily. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
