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tntmo

Looking for an electrician: Sub-panel install

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I'm out of circuits on my breaker panel and would like to get some dedicated garage circuits for 220 and higher amperage 110 as well, so I am in need of a subpanel.  Anyone have a go-to place they can recommend? 

I know how to do all of this stuff myself, but it's probably best to have it done by someone with a license in case my house burns down.......unless someone has done the permit and inspection process and can help guide me in the right direction for that. 

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I was recently looking for a panel upgrade also. I had a local contractor on the hook and had been cleared by SDG&E to move forward, just needed a date for meter removal to continue. The contractor never came back? Not sure what was up with that or what happened to him. I did not persue him because if that’s the way he was before the job, how could I trust during the job. Also SDG&E told me that after Jan 1, 2018, elec panels can no longer be located above a gas meter. Mine was and I would have to either move the gas meter 36” or relocate the electric panel. It is still on my list of things to get done, so I’ll follow this thread as well.

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I just did a small job with David Alvarado 6197080390.

 

Nothing fancy, reasonable, and I used him for the identical reasons as you.

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Tntmo did you already replace your breakers with double circuit breakers? 

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7 hours ago, Spaugh said:

Tntmo did you already replace your breakers with double circuit breakers? 

No.  Haven’t looked into that, but I guess I could.

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43 minutes ago, tntmo said:

No.  Haven’t looked into that, but I guess I could.

Yup my sub has almost all the circuits replaced with tandem breakers, quick and easy 

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      Tom, 

The above comments are quite true, with the caveat that the total amp load must be part of the calculation. If you have one 20 amp 120 volt circuit to the garage, you can't expect to run more than 80% of simultaneous load (16 amps ). And 220 volt loads need a separate 2 pole breaker source.

       Dave

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Thanks for the good information so far.  I’m looking to see if I can install a few double/tandem breakers and free up a couple spots for a 220 so I can get the MIG welder hooked up.

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2 hours ago, Bagstr said:

The above comments are quite true, with the caveat that the total amp load must be part of the calculation. If you have one 20 amp 120 volt circuit to the garage, you can't expect to run more than 80% of simultaneous load (16 amps ). And 220 volt loads need a separate 2 pole breaker source.

What? Like you're somekinda expert?

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Any chance you have a gas clothes dryer but a dedicated electric circuit for it as well?  May be able to steal that one if so.....

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When looking in the panel the easiest answers are usually the best bet but don't overlook the overall panel load.  If you have central air, an electric water heater, clothes dryer, range, those are generally already your 208/230 VAC loads on the panel.  Avoid the lugs that those are loaded on already with the welder circuit as I have seen lugs melted out of a power distribution panel from tandem installs with those along with directly across from those.  Take the panel rating in to consideration as well.  Older construction had 100 amp service entrances.  When technology advanced so did the panels, jumping to 200 amps.  When tandem applications are used pick an occasional use manual appliance circuit such as the clothes dryer or a range as opposed to duty cycle appliances like the AC or the water heater.  Additionally if you're doing the work yourself take the peak use information into consideration on the welder and the house when determining wire size.  There are web pages with ampacity charts for appropriate wire sizes.  Just a few talking points on the matter to take in to consideration.  I hope this helps...  The panel is already labeled, right?  This is what happens when you are given the National Electrical Code as regular reading material at the age of 12 while living in a fixer upper in the middle of nowhere, so the information is only 32 years out of date.

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