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simicrintz

Did I mess up? Oil change....

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So I have a Big Bear ride with some buddies next weekend and have been doing some work on the bike (tire pressure, chain lube, air filter, etc.).  Went down and got some Rotella and a filter to do the oil change and have it all in, but noticed something in the manual that has me concerned.  Manual states SAE 10W-30 (I got that part right!) but also says either JASO T903 standard or MA or MB.  The Rotella I got is JASO DH-2 and the MB is MB-Approval 228.31 (technically I bought diesel oil).  

Did I just waste time and money buying the wrong stuff or am I okay?  I picked up the filter at Cycle Gear but got the oil at O'Reilly (I was so focused on getting Rotella and the correct viscosity that I did not think about the ratings).  Feeling pretty stupid right now but would rather know if I can leave it in or need to drain it out instead of causing problems.

Thanks, guys; I appreciate any input and will take shame like a big boy if needed!

 

 

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Rotella T4 (Conventional 15w40) and T6 (Synthetic 5w40) are both JASO-MA, but I don't believe the 10w30 is. Assuming your bike has shared gearbox & engine oil I wouldn't risk it. 

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Thanks, Andy.  It is my understanding that if it has friction modifiers that is what eats clutches (and it doesn't).  I've also heard that the T5 just did not go for JASO-MA rating since Shell wants to push their specific (can't remember name) motorcycle oil instead.  

A gallon was only $20 so if I need to start over it's not a big deal.  Feeling kinda stupid for not paying better attention.

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Yeah,  it's the friction modifiers that would worry me. If you're 100% certain it doesn't have them go ahead and run it. 

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Found this; I think I will run with it and hope for the best.  I appreciate you heading me in the correct direction Andy!

"Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission. Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific".

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Thank you!  I took it for a quick spin yesterday up the road and didn't feel anything weird (not sure how long it would take to notice and I most likely did not go far enough anyway!).  

I appreciate you guys looking at this and your input!

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I have been running Rotella for years in my ktm x2. Like I said before when was the last time anyone had a oil related issue? 

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Thanks, Ken.  I've seen the Rotella posts (some yours!) which is what took me down that road.  When I read further and started to scare myself with not having exactly what the manual said I decided to post here for those of you that are smarter than me (that is all of you!)!

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In a pinch Rotella will work used in on and off for years I just buy my amsoil. 4 gallons to a case problem solved but it will work fine esp in a dirt bike where it gets changed more often than not

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Missed the Big Bear ride (buying out my business partner and have way too much stuff to do that did not allow this to happen).  Bike has not moved other than a couple quick jaunts up the street and back (with no issues).  Maybe one day I will get it out again and file a report.....

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