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tvscum

Case splitting tool to borrow?

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Does anybody have a case splitting tool that will work on a '97 XR400R that maybe I could borrow?  Like this one:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter?term=case+splitter

My countershaft is stripped and I have to replace it with the upgraded 1999 version.  I have to get the swingarm pivot bolt out first, so it could be a week or two before I dive in.

IMG_5623_zpso4fotr6e.jpg

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You probably don't need one. A lot of engines have leverage points cast into them for splitting the crank case. I'm not very familiar with the XR400 motors, but I think they are similar to the XR250 and XL250 RFVC engines, and I never needed any special tools to split those. I never had any trouble getting other motors apart applying gentle pressure on the cast in splitting tabs with a couple of big screwdrivers.

Do you have a service manual to follow along? If so, did it call for a case splitting tool?

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The manual did not call for a splitting tool but I have seen some videos where one was used.  You are correct, I probably don't need one.  From what I can tell the swingarm pivot bolt is going to be the bitch.  I am planning on tapping and threading a slide hammer into bolt head.  This guy may be overkill though:

 

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Is the pivot bolt seized?  I've had good luck on getting those out using penetrating oil and heat, working the bolt back and forth while applying more fluid and heat.  Never destroyed one, and I'm pretty ham-fisted.  Oh yeah, brass drift punch is a nice tool to use.

You won't need a case splitter for that engine.  Beer is a good lubricant.

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The swingarm is not seized but the pivot bolt seems seized inside the pivot collars.  I will start with oil and heat, and then move to more strongarm tactics if needed.  Thanks.

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3 hours ago, tvscum said:

The swingarm is not seized but the pivot bolt seems seized inside the pivot collars.  I will start with oil and heat, and then move to more strongarm tactics if needed.  Thanks.

When I did the swingarm bolt on the BRP it was seized severely. Lots of oil and heat, gentle tapping and it came free. 

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1 hour ago, Reximus said:

When I did the swingarm bolt on the BRP it was seized severely. Lots of oil and heat, gentle tapping and it came free. 

No wonder it came out nicely for me!

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4 hours ago, tntmo said:

No wonder it came out nicely for me!

The old one was so banged up had to order new one. 

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2 hours ago, Reximus said:

The old one was so banged up had to order new one. 

Haha, I was thinking I just got really lucky.  

I have actually been quite lucky on those things over the years.  Heat and penetrating oil, along with a brass drift.  Work it out even a few mm's and then tap it back in.  Drink a few beers or whatever works for you to keep your patience.  I had one that I just worked on a little bit over a few days, kept soaking it down in the morning before I left for work and then tapped it out and back in a little bit at a time.

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3 hours ago, Reximus said:

The old one was so banged up had to order new one. 

Are we still talking about bike parts or girlfriends 

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2 minutes ago, Bp619 said:

Are we still talking about bike parts or girlfriends 

Los dos! 

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Penetrating oil, heat, and a loaner slide hammer from AutoZone pulled it out. You can actually thread the Swingarm bolt  without damaging it because it's hollow. A 3/8" tap and bolt fits inside.  Thanks guys!

IMG_5657.JPG

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Is my crank screwed?  Measurements seem in spec but what do u make o this blue-ing?

 

IMG_5690.JPG

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