KTM Clutch Damper Replacement

[Bagstr 287]

  Hey Gang,

      Since it soo warm, I thought hey change the clutch dampers on the KTM.   Question,  Is it necessary to remove the the Hub Nut to access the dampers? Or, just the six Belvile bolts?  If the nut is a must, will an impact battery tool get the job done without any special locking tool? Huh,,, what d ya think?   ( 2016 450 XCW )  Yes they are on the clutch basket not the wheel hub. 

   Seriously, Thanks for your input. 

[Bp619 104]

Yes hub nut and yes can with impact for removal only

Heres a good video from rekluse for damper replacement 

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=rH3vqf_OQ5A

[Bp619 104]

For impact battery tool probably will need a 1/2 drive one not the ryobi ridgid contractor sytle 1/4 shank ones.

 

[Bagstr 287]

    What a Team,  Thanks BP!   The video appears to not use any tool to lock the hub in place. Just put it in gear and impact does the job?

[Bp619 104]

Yup just what i did i believe the compression of motor held it enough to torque. Did it over year ago though

[Bagstr 287]

   Well,  after looking around,  I realized a $23 basket holding tool would be a good investment.  Has anyone used the Motion Pro unit, Does it fit the grooves?

           Thanks,  Ordered the dampers, ready to man-up

 P.S. Also picking up the gear locking tool.  Gota love more tools.  

[PbdBlue 46]

I haven't done tis yet on my bike. How many miles on yours Dave?

[Bagstr 287]

     

     145 Hrs / 4090 miles.     Don't really know why I need to do this but, the internet tells me motor vibration increases with time. Naturally, I sense more vibration as the hours build.  

                        

   The point of this device is to protect the transmission from road / vibrations, right?   The rubber donuts are still in there, just somewhat more loose.

[Bp619 104]

Yup on my 350 when i installed my rekluse at 50hrs they were worn but not destroyed at 135 before i sold were also due to be replaced spec wise but not destroyed. They act as like a cush drive for your motor

[robertaccio 405]

clutch gets grabby, sloppy and choppy as you engage it when those dampers get sloppy/old/harden/crack. as opposed to smooth engagement when things are correct. It's very noticeable and easy to check for play in the clutch, the Rekluse viddy shows a good example.

[paulmbowers 236]

I've done it- pretty easy. Might want to order a locking-tab washer while you're at it. You'd can probably be reused, but I like to have a fresh one if necessary. A few of my rubberbabybuggybumpers came out in pieces, others just showed some wear.

 

No need to empty the crankcase, it works just laying it on it's side, where my bike often prefers anyway.

[Bagstr 287]

  Finished the Project - What I learned

 1. Gear Locking tool is no help since the round clutch cover when removed does not expose the gear. Removing the entire side cover ( water pump and kick starter ) is bigger job.

 2. Pneumatic impact tool removes the hub nut easily.

 3. Used the Motion Pro Hub Wrench to hold the hub and accurately torque the hub nut to 80kg. Recommend installing electrical shrink tube on the jaws to help grip the hub.  The shape of the inner hub at the grip point is half round as opposed to right angle requiring a delicate touch. I could not in good conscience us the impact tool to tighten the hub nut. 

 4.  At 145 hrs I cannot see the need to replace the dampers " On my bike". They were loose but still connected and robust. My transmission is still excellent in operation.  I could see going to 200 hrs. Key to my situation is that the bike could have 500 miles or less of actual pavement time. It is a dirt bike!  The claim that some have raised of vibration increase through the motor with hours, Is Not my experience. Would I change wheel dampers at the same mileage? 

 5. Scheduling next service at 300-350 hrs.

      The Governor 

[Bagstr 287]

  Does anyone know of an adjustable torque adapter to use on the 1/2 drive hub of the impact tool? The $70 tool I bought is not adjustable to torque.  The tire shops finish with a torque wrench. 

[Bp619 104]

I have seen inline adjustable torque adapters but they only measure torque. they dont limit the torque at a set point from a impact.

I had used a demo system that was a electric impact gun which would be set to only deliver a set torque but crazy $$$ our shop didnt buy wasnt worth it. 

Alot of tire shops use torque sticks first then finish with torque wrench. Torque sticks are long 1/2 drive extensions that twist when it gets past a specific torque number to not go over that. Like this

http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/torque-master-torque-sticks-extensions