KTM EXC 500 best/first mods?

[blakeNY9 0]

Two comments from my last ride. On clutch pull, I removed my lever, so no pull issues. That's actually the point of the Rekluse...it does all of that for you. I rode some truly nasty, rocky, steep crap in Big Bear yesterday, and I am blown away how good it is.

I am sending back my LHRB as I just cannot get my mind to use it. I have always been a rear brake guy, including trail braking on the GS. Since I will have the room, I will put the clutch lever back on to check the Rekluse adjustment. But again, you don't EVER need to use the clutch.

Not to start an internet debate, just want be sure the info is clear for folks considering this product. The Rekluse doesn't actually do everything for you. When your engine is above idle it is engaged (or disengaged, however you want to look at it) to drive just like a manual clutch. It only automates the engagement and disengagement of the clutch off idle. Of course you can clutchless shift, which with the lever removed I assume you are doing. With the proper understanding of how to do it, I'm a fan of it, just don't want folks to think they can install a Rekluse and never use the clutch lever again without some additional know how of what they are doing. The Rekluse is doing nothing for you in the way of shifting when the engine is above idle. From the Rekluse website:

What is an Automatic Clutch?

Core EXP, EXP and z-Start Pro are all auto-clutches. An Auto-Clutch is a centrifugal force actuated clutch that automatically engages and disengages the clutch in relation to RPMs. The Auto-Clutch automatically feeds out the clutch in the same way you feed out the clutch lever when starting from a stop. The rider only needs to turn the throttle to increase RPMs, to engage the clutch and go. It is not an automatic transmission, you must shift the gears. The benefit is that the auto-clutch will do the “feed” automatically and consistently, allowing you to be free to focus on other aspects of your riding. All three Rekluse Auto-Clutches allow retention of one’s clutch lever to manually override the auto-clutch at all times. As with any standard clutch, the rider can still “feed”, “fan”, “slip” or “pop” the clutch and do motocross style starts. Rekluse Auto-Clutches are performance enhancing for full sized bikes and ATV’s. See Performance for more info.

[RP415 0]

One more question...what do you guys think are the best handguards?? I have been looking at the Enduro Engineering ones but have not pulled the trigger yet. Looking for enough room for levers, easy install, and strong.

HighwayDirtBikes no question.

So that's 2 for HDB...anyone else??

[Bp619 104]

Cycra probend

[blakeNY9 0]

I've recently been trying out the Cycra Composite pro bend. I got sick of my hand guards getting bent, so giving these a try. They won't bend, but I bet with just the right hit with enough force and they might break. But much lighter, have held up well so far.

I secured them with these from BRP:

https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1507-brp-hand-guard-mounts-bmi-9254.html

and tapped the end of the bars for a more secure hold.

[RP415 0]

I've recently been trying out the Cycra Composite pro bend. I got sick of my hand guards getting bent, so giving these a try. They won't bend, but I bet with just the right hit with enough force and they might break. But much lighter, have held up well so far.

I secured them with these from BRP:

https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1507-brp-hand-guard-mounts-bmi-9254.html

and tapped the end of the bars for a more secure hold.

Those look legit!

[REV5 0]

Another option to eliminate wrap around handgaurds. ARC composite levers. With these you'll be able to use stock handgaurds and not have to worry about breaking levers.

[paulmbowers 236]

But...

I don't buy handguards to protect the levers- while that's an excellent secondary reason. I buy them to protect my hands, and don't find the stockers to provide the protection I want. I have also seen many broken stock handguards needing replacement.

But!

To each his own.

[Bagstr 287]

Bbbutt,,,

For the 2016 KTMs, there is a "New Option". Those concerned with tendinitis or other arm / wrist issues would like to maintain isolation from triple clamp oscillations.

Previously, I ran my HDB bash bar loosely torqued with nylon washers in order to limit transfer of chassis vibrations. Not a complete solution. Although the HDB top bar clamp would be isolated from the the triple clamp, it would possibly limit flex from the bar clamp to hand grip.

Given that interpretation, I am on the look-out for a solid system that mounts out near the clutch perch. No doubt the HDB system is strong,,too strong possibly.

There is always room to Question

Edit 1 : So I zoom over to HDB to research, and Bam, a new product! Need to verify if it flexes in motion.

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=NexGen_00

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=display&ref=NexGen_Install

Edit 2 : Thanks Blake for the BRP Moto link - They have the Rubber mount as well.

https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/319-brp-triple-clamp-moto-00-15-ktm-125-530-models.html

[paulmbowers 236]

Huh.

Why would a person without a bike be on the lookout for hand guards?

Hmmmm.

[REV5 0]

Twisted metal composite bars with there handgaurds will still allow flex. For reduced fatigue

[blakeNY9 0]

There is also this product from BRP, a rubber mounted bar clamp that can also serve as a sub mount for a stabilizer. I put this on my 350, and like it so far.

https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1885-brp-rubber-mtd-sub-mount-dm-sub-kit-00-15-ktm-125-530-w-oem-tc.html

https://www.brpmoto.com/index.php/ktm/product/1885-brp-rubber-mtd-sub-mount-dm-sub-kit-00-15-ktm-125-530-w-oem-tc.html

[RP415 0]

Congrats on the bike.

+1 on Rekluse, core exp 3.0 is what I've used on a 500 and 350.

Check out Ox Brake over the rekluse LHRB. Cable actuated instead of hydraulically. Half the price and way easier to install and get dialed. Easy two finger lock up of the rear brake.

Baja Designs light is perfect, plug and play.

Sicass Racing makes great plug and play LED turn signals and other controls.

So I up and bought the Rekluse Core EXP clutch, got it all installed, everything within spec. Went for first ride tonight and it is awesome! However I am having one problem, in higher gears (4th, 5th or 6th) when at higher rpm the clutch slips bad. Anybody had a problem with this?

[REV5 0]

Who ever did the install can help with that. If not, call Steve at C and D cycle center or contact Rekluse.

[blakeNY9 0]

Congrats on the bike.

+1 on Rekluse, core exp 3.0 is what I've used on a 500 and 350.

Check out Ox Brake over the rekluse LHRB. Cable actuated instead of hydraulically. Half the price and way easier to install and get dialed. Easy two finger lock up of the rear brake.

Baja Designs light is perfect, plug and play.

Sicass Racing makes great plug and play LED turn signals and other controls.

So I up and bought the Rekluse Core EXP clutch, got it all installed, everything within spec. Went for first ride tonight and it is awesome! However I am having one problem, in higher gears (4th, 5th or 6th) when at higher rpm the clutch slips bad. Anybody had a problem with this?

I would re-check your free play gain with the supplied rubber band. Are there any other variables in play like aftermarket clutch lever etc.?

Just to verify, you are at the appropriate speed for 4,5 an 6 gear?

[Chad 0]

I do not have much experience with clutches, but something to consider...

My buddy had serious first gear slippage issues after a clutch rebuild (NOT involving a Rekluse install). Tear down identified that the plates had been installed in the wrong order. Apparently tough to tell which plate you have when the thicknesses are very close?? (Altho you note your install is within spec.) Reassembly with the plates in the correct order fixed the slippage issue. Likely more of a rookie mechanic issue on my buddy's part, but stranger things have happen with shop work... (Assuming you had it done at a shop.)

Good luck!

[RP415 0]

Congrats on the bike.

+1 on Rekluse, core exp 3.0 is what I've used on a 500 and 350.

Check out Ox Brake over the rekluse LHRB. Cable actuated instead of hydraulically. Half the price and way easier to install and get dialed. Easy two finger lock up of the rear brake.

Baja Designs light is perfect, plug and play.

Sicass Racing makes great plug and play LED turn signals and other controls.

So I up and bought the Rekluse Core EXP clutch, got it all installed, everything within spec. Went for first ride tonight and it is awesome! However I am having one problem, in higher gears (4th, 5th or 6th) when at higher rpm the clutch slips bad. Anybody had a problem with this?

I would re-check your free play gain with the supplied rubber band. Are there any other variables in play like aftermarket clutch lever etc.?

Just to verify, you are at the appropriate speed for 4,5 an 6 gear?

I re-adjusted the free play gain to 1/8" and felt like that made slipping worse. I experience slipping in the top of the gear at higher RPM's like when im on the road at the top of 4th gear about to shift to 5th or 5th to 6th, it slips really bad and motor revs like tire is spinning but its not.

Stock lever and no other variables.

I called Rekluse this morning and went over this with a tech, he pretty much asked all the same questions you did. After all basic questions he told me to pull apart the CORE disk and check that all the wedges are seated properly and that there is no damage to the teflon sliders on the wedge. Apparently they have had a few issues where wedges did not come out and engage the clutch causing it to slip. They even had one clutch that was missing teflon all together.

So I plan on pulling it apart as soon as I get home today and see if I can get it fixed before the weekend. I just hope my clutch plates are not toast after slipping a few times last night durring my ride!

[blakeNY9 0]

At what free play gain did you find it worked better than at the perscribed 1/8"?

Your clutch disks are fine. They are a lot tougher than most people think.

Might want to double check you put the Rekluse drive plates in, in the correct orientation as they are directional. Just trying to think of things that could have easily gone wrong on the install. And you installed the correct number of friction plates and drive plates? You will have some stock friction plates leftover.

One of the wedges not functioning properly sounds like it could potentially be the problem. Makes sense that if that was the case it has enough outward clamping pressure at low RPMs but not at the greater force of higher RPMs. The techs at Rekluse will know better than me.

[RP415 0]

At what free play gain did you find it worked better than at the perscribed 1/8"?

Your clutch disks are fine. They are a lot tougher than most people think.

Might want to double check you put the Rekluse drive plates in, in the correct orientation as they are directional. Just trying to think of things that could have easily gone wrong on the install. And you installed the correct number of friction plates and drive plates? You will have some stock friction plates leftover.

One of the wedges not functioning properly sounds like it could potentially be the problem. Makes sense that if that was the case it has enough outward clamping pressure at low RPMs but not at the greater force of higher RPMs. The techs at Rekluse will know better than me.

So I pulled EVERYTHING apart and checked the discs, frictions, everything was correct. I pulled the core apart and checked all the wedges and everything was good. I put it all back together and warmed up the bike and adjusted free play gain. On the phone tech said 1/8-1/4" but clearly in the manual and online it says 1/16-1/8". So I set it at 1/4" and went for a test ride. Got the bike nice and hot and went on some roads where I could really open it up in all gears. No slipping at all.

Checked the free play gain when I got back home and its at about 3/8" so thats where I am going to leave it.

Oh and you were right...clutch discs are still in good shape! Time to ride!

[EddieEarl 6]

Just dreaming out loud here but here's what I'd love to fabricate if I won the lottery ...

- Move left foot rear brake to LHRB. Clutch would move to left "thumb throttle" type control - hydraulic of course - and only if needed with a Rekluse.

- Move right foot shift lever to RHSL - paddle type shifting with right thumb (maybe a fancy electronic shifter).

- All controls on hands. Left side would be rear brake and clutch (if needed). Right side would be throttle, front brake, and shifting.

Looks like Honda beat me to the punch on their new 1000 Africa Twin:

As announced, Honda has also presented a version of the CRF1000L furnished with a new Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT), optimized for off-road riding. Apart from the obvious fully automatic D-mode, there is the option of an S-mode where the rider shifts serially through the gears via two buttons on the left hand side of the handlebars.

http://www.gizmag.com/honda-2016-crf1000l-africa-twin/38614/

[jimi 0]

Another vote for the HDB handguards, but I will add that there is one thing people have run into on these bikes, myself included, that I'm not happy with. KTM has that long ass straight metal tube that comes out of the clutch master, that will be exactly in the way if you do the whole HDB setup. You can fix it by replacing the clutch line with one that has a bend in it, but that is a pain in the ass. I sort of rotated my clutch a little, but it still puts a bend in the line that is sharper than I would like. Obviously if you go all in with the Rekluse and toss the clutch, then there is no issue. I guess bars with a different bend may make a difference here as well.

[Schweddy Balls 0]

Yes, balance your wheels...I do front and rear. These are the weights I use:

http://www.nomartirechanger.com/Spoke_Weights_p/wt-spoke14.htm

I can cruise at 75mph and it's smooth as silk.

The Scotts (or whatever brand you choose) will help if you're on the freeway with rain grooves. I found the bike spooky to ride on the freeway without it. But now I just crank it up and it's fixed the hunting from the knobs.

@Jim and Crawdaddy, do either of you have a tire balancer stand? or what setup did you use to balance? My new bike comes in this weekend afterwhich I'll spend the next 24 hours building it out. LIke Jim, I"m spending waaaay too much but its my dream bike so doing it and not looking back. Will post my long list shortly but its a pretty insane list...I'm all-in.

[Bagstr 287]

Tire Balancer - http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/11-0058/

Install Two of these on each tire and forget the balancer.

[jawhitmoyer 0]

Gonna disagree, Bagstr. I have a balancing stand kind of like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Wheel-Balancer-800-256/dp/B0068FUWGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438365030&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+balancer

I use it for both GS and EXC, although the GS requires an adapter for the rear wheel. I have my wheels within 1/8th ounce of perfection.

[Dirtdiver 2]

I have a recluse on one of my bikes and I am only so-so on it. It HAS saved me on a few technical up hills. When I get knocked off my line and I am riding the bike like a bucking bronco - I am holding on for dear life and I can't/don't feather the clutch. The recluse helps here. It also helps when you are looking at a hill climb wondering whether to go in 1st or in second gear. With the recluse just put it in second and let it slip.

However, I don't like that when stopped on a hill I can't hold the bike on the slope with the gears. Also I don't like the noise I get when taking off in first gear and the bike is hot. I get some chatter I can't get rid of. Finally you can't jump start the bike nearly as easily as you could before the recluse.

Im glad i tried it but I don't plan to get it again. It seems like my opinion flies in the face of everyone else-but there you have it.

steve