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Goofy Footer

2012+ WR450 Impressions

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Pasta, thanks for the reply - you bring up some good points. Do you have stock coolant in your YZ ? I know I know, another coolant/oil/tire thread lol.

It's not stock and I can't remember what's in it now. Prestone, Peak, Napa, something green anyway.

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Dress4Less, tell me about your '05 WR.

What gearing are you running, what kind of MPG do you get and how many miles in your tank?

What skidplate and rad guard do you use?

I think I may have asked before but do you have the stock OEM exhaust by chance?

Let's see a pic of it on the trail!

Tim- I just saw this post...

Yolanda the '05 WR450F Yamaha currently has 15/48 gearing and she "chokes down" to 14/48 at places like Bishop, Bass Lake and Wickenburg. She probably should have ran 14/48 out in Bull Head too but, the 15/48 worked out fine. :coolio:

Her 3.1 gallon tank will do ~110-120mi max...depending on how much the throttle is twisted.

She is sporting an aluminum "full cover" skid plate but, NO rad guards :crying_anim02: and she she sings through a Bill's Pipes header and exhaust/spark arrestor system which "barely" makes sound check at tech check. I have the stock header pipe and and the Bill's slip on exhaust system that was on it when I bought her if you're interested.

Yolanda has been a GREAT bike for me. I just wish she had a 6th gear! As soon as Yamaha releases a 6 speed in the states I'm all in!

Here are a few pics of Yolanda...

Bass Lake

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Baja

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Flagstaff

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Wickenburg

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Borrego Springs

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Bull Head City

IMG_0536_zpsa7ji2qei.jpg

IMG_0544_zpsilyb4pyl.jpg

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Dress4Less, your WR looks good!

I've been seeing more older WRs with the 2012+ front fender (sometimes even the 2012+ front headlight) and I think the newer fender makes the older models look nice. I'm thinking of putting one on my steel frame too. You can find them in blue, white or black. ~$20-25 online for Acerbis / UFO / Polisport

On a steel frame

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From the cockpit

post-14322-0-89946600-1443371160_thumb.j

On a 2007-2011 aluminum frame model

post-14322-0-28156100-1443371170_thumb.j

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Here is a pic of a Boyesen Supercooler on a WR. Stock on left, Boyesen on Right.

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I made a custom harness and ran a SAE (think battery tender) power line from the battery to the front of the bike. This will allow me to easily charge the battery via my Battery Tender Plus and have auxiliary power for accessories.

In addition, I made an on/off in-line switch that runs from the SAE auxiliary power to a Baja Designs Weatherpack connector to run an extra light with on/off toggle. Likely, I'll splice in an additional on/off in-line switch between the factory H4 headlight connector and the Weatherpack of my BD Squadron for extra flexibility with lighting.

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I somewhat drool over the Baja Designs Squadron XL kit for the 2012 WR450 mask.

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For now, my Squadron Pro and Polisport headlight shroud will likely do unless I make a very expensive impulse purchase before my upcoming Baja ride. On an aside, BD is now selling a Squadron XL80 with 20 watt LED chips for far more power than the Squadron XL and they also offer a "Racer's Edition" XL which throws light 40% (allegedly) farther than a standard XL. I am not sure either are offered with the smaller heat sink needed for dirtbike applications however. It seems that LED technology keeps advancing and whatever light you have gets outdated in a few years...

post-14322-0-44396700-1443372323_thumb.j

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Made an in-line on/off switch for the 2012 WR450. I mixed up the wire colors on the male weatherpack connector but I got it figured out on my second attempt (the K&S switch is different than the previous Tusk switch I used). I still need to get better at understanding continuity testing with my multimeter.

This switch will stay on the 2012 or go onto another bike if I make a more custom setup for the 2012.

post-14322-0-53095100-1443394616_thumb.j

Here is the Baja Designs Squadron on the 2012. I think it looks great with blue handguards and the new style front fender. Maybe I like blue tho.. I'm seriously contemplating bolting up a smaller auxiliary light to the headlight mask - a used BD SII Wide Cornering for cheap (5000k color so it will match my Squadron) or Rigid Industries SRM2 Driving Light (5500k I believe so it's ever so slightly more blue than the Squadron)

post-14322-0-27673200-1443394615.jpg

Inspiration to add the wide cornering / flood light come from this older BD halogen / hid combo

post-14322-0-73837800-1443395409.jpg

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Damn... My WR is the least reliable bike I own.

If the battery is low the lower is WAY down and wont recover without a few restarts.

And if I want to break down in grail, I take it out; blew s motor on the first time out from a stuck engine component.

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Winty, do you run a magnetic oil drain plug in your 2012? I cannot seem to find one online based on the model.

(Likely I'll have to drain measure my drain bolts and find it by size. But I want to be lazy and just press "buy it now"!!)

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Based on the above graph (data from Gearing Commander) it sounds like both Winty and myself run 14/50 gearing on the 2012 which is essentially the same gearing as Dress4Less does on the 2005 (14/48) for dirt. 

 

Winty, what hwy speeds do you run on 14/50 gearing? 

Dress4Less, when you did your big Baja ride to Catavina, do you recall your gearing?  What hwy speeds do you run?

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42 minutes ago, Goofy Footer said:

Based on the above graph (data from Gearing Commander) it sounds like both Winty and myself run 14/50 gearing on the 2012 which is essentially the same gearing as Dress4Less does on the 2005 (14/48) for dirt. 

 

Winty, what hwy speeds do you run on 14/50 gearing? 

Dress4Less, when you did your big Baja ride to Catavina, do you recall your gearing?  What hwy speeds do you run?

Tim - For the Big Baja ride I switched the countershaft sprocket from 14 to 15. A little easier on the motor and gas mileage. Gave me a little more top end. I didn't push it above 65 on the hwy for too long...tried to cruise between 55-60 when on the hwy. Other guys in the group were on five-hundos and six-fiddy's...top end was not an issue for them.

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1 minute ago, Dress4Less said:

Tim - For the Big Baja ride I switched the countershaft sprocket from 14 to 15. A little easier on the motor and gas mileage. Gave me a little more top end. I didn't push it above 65 on the hwy for too long...tried to cruise between 55-60 when on the hwy. Other guys in the group were on five-hundos and six-fiddy's...top end was not an issue for them.

15/48 at 60mph is around 5700 RPM

I think I'm more comfortable 6000 or below.  When nobody is watching, I sometimes snooze cruise it at 50mph or ~5000 RPM for me.  That might be babying the bike but I bought it for Dirt!

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2 hours ago, Goofy Footer said:

Winty, what hwy speeds do you run on 14/50 gearing? 

Admittedly mine doesn't see all that much highway, but I've never had trouble keeping up with traffic (70ish) and will get up into the 80s for passing. 

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3 minutes ago, Wintyfresh said:

Admittedly mine doesn't see all that much highway, but I've never had trouble keeping up with traffic (70ish) and will get up into the 80s for passing. 

At 14/50 gearing?  You're a throttle madman!

I hit 75 on the beach in Baja and figured that was good enough

 

 

One ADV WR rider from New Zealand says he's ran his for 100km (62mph) sections at 7000 RPM and it still runs great..  Not sure that sustained RPM is for me but it's good info

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9 minutes ago, Goofy Footer said:

At 14/50 gearing?  You're a throttle madman!

Yeah, or a little more on a 150/60/17 and 14/44 gearing. :D

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My 2015 maxes out at 88 with 15/50 in the dirt on GPS. about 77 14/50 but I never GPS'd it.

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I don't think internal gearing changed between 2012 and 2015; 77mph on 14/50 should only be about 7800 rpm unless your rear tire size is different? 

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Goofy, have you had any issues E- Starting when hot. Mine starts first press of the button cold but you need to pull the EFI version of the choke to E-Start when hot,or kick it. (Not even hot, just warmed up good. I have the Trail Tech Fan)

Thumper talk talks this issue to death but I'd like to meet someone local who has the solution.

Lots of talk about changing the O2 settings. Motoworld and Fun Bike act like they have no idea what I'm talking about.

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Ken S, negative.  Mine usually takes 2 short taps of the starter cold or warm.  Maybe easier when warm?  Not a big deal imho

For you, maybe you should look into the Yamaha FI Diagnostics Tool

WR450 Yamaha FI Diagnostic Tool .jpg

 

A couple SDAR Club Members have the FI Tuner - allows you to create / upload custom FI Maps. 

I am not sure if anybody here has the FI Diagnostic Tool but a dealer Should.  Allegedly, it allows you to adjust your Carbon Monoxide / O2 settings which may be what you need.  C&D in Kearny Mesa might know or North County Yamaha if the East County shops don't.

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16 hours ago, Goofy Footer said:

15/48 at 60mph is around 5700 RPM

I think I'm more comfortable 6000 or below.  When nobody is watching, I sometimes snooze cruise it at 50mph or ~5000 RPM for me.  That might be babying the bike but I bought it for Dirt!

I hear that! ;)

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Hello guys, 2011 YZ rider here but I've a few thoughts to share. 

14 hours ago, Ken S said:

Goofy, have you had any issues E- Starting when hot. Mine starts first press of the button cold but you need to pull the EFI version of the choke to E-Start when hot,or kick it. (Not even hot, just warmed up good. I have the Trail Tech Fan)

Thumper talk talks this issue to death but I'd like to meet someone local who has the solution.

Lots of talk about changing the O2 settings. Motoworld and Fun Bike act like they have no idea what I'm talking about.

 

Ken, The knob on the side of the throttle body is a cold start/idle aduster. Turning it adjusts the idle like a normal idle adjuster, but pulling it activates a bypass duct to increase air/fuel/idle for easier starting in cold conditions. It's not a hot start knob like the old carburetor bikes had. The year after I bought my bike I went to the Long Beach bike show and posed the question regarding poor hot starting to the reps there and they had no idea. They told me to pull the knob and I then informed them it was a cold start knob and even showed them in the .pdf manual I kept on my phone. They had no clue how to help.

 

Thumpertalk is admittedly the best source for deep technical information on any bike. . Local shops and techs service hundreds of bikes and only know surface info on an entire product line. TT users dive deep into one bike. Unless. of course, you have access to Yamaha factory R&D engineers who will share code and corporate secrets, there is no better place than the fanatics on the internet. The problem is when you start tweaking you exit the factory tuned safety umbrella and open yourseelf to the reduced longevity of the product. However it is a small risk when changing  fuel settings but it something we all did for decades when rejetting and tuning our carburetors. We just thought it was easier then. Now the jet kits come in a small box full of ones and zeros instead of little pieces of brass.

To help the hot starting it sounds like the only way to do that is with the Yamaha FI Diagnostic tool .That is the only was to adjust fuel settings AT IDLE by adjusting the O2 (or CO2, I can't remember) setting. The GYTR tuner only adjusts as low as 1/3 throttle openning. I called shops in SD, nobody knew what I was talknig about. I even called the Yamaha US technical service line and they were of no help either. That service line is not publically released and supposed to be used by service technicians for guidance in maintenance or troubleshooting. They simply quote manuals and did not have access to engineering level information and couldn't provide any other contact info within the Yamaha family. 

I would love to try the FI tool, if someone has one or wants to split costs on it I'm in. We can tune and test at a local spot. 

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Jon

 I even called the Yamaha US technical service line and they were of no help either.

 

Realize they cannot give outside the legal EPA settings advice. Everything they can discuss is strictly book and to the homologated EPA (CARB etc)specification. They are constrained by liability in that regard.

PS I don't know what settings and spec you guys have but I just rode a 17 YZ450FX with a Dr.D full system, rekluse core exp 3.0 clutch and some other bits (I think OEM stock map).

I started off in 3rd gear in auto clutch mode by owner direction and never shifted. the FI was flawless and the torque from 0mph/almost 0rpm to stupid fast in 3rd was so user friendly. Could ride single track all day in 3rd gear, amazing very impressive bLU cRU machine but just too heavy  for me and my 2 strokian religion.

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I'll go half on the tool. I dont want to do the adjustments myself. I'm not the techie guy. 

I love my WR except the starting issue which only does it at the most inconvenient times. Like dead engine starts at the beginning of a desert race, but it usually pisses me off so bad I ride way faster than normal. 

Gas mileage sucks also. MX map. Never gotten better than 25mpg but I'm throttle heavy and in the sand a lot. 

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5 hours ago, robertaccio said:

 

Realize they cannot give outside the legal EPA settings advice. Everything they can discuss is strictly book and to the homologated EPA (CARB etc)specification. They are constrained by liability in that regard.

PS I don't know what settings and spec you guys have but I just rode a 17 YZ450FX with a Dr.D full system, rekluse core exp 3.0 clutch and some other bits (I think OEM stock map).

I started off in 3rd gear in auto clutch mode by owner direction and never shifted. the FI was flawless and the torque from 0mph/almost 0rpm to stupid fast in 3rd was so user friendly. Could ride single track all day in 3rd gear, amazing very impressive bLU cRU machine but just too heavy  for me and my 2 strokian religion.

Rob, you do remember I own a "closed course competition only" dirt bike? There are no EPA specifications for it.

My bike runs great, when it's running. Cold starting is a three kick process. Fuel delivery and mixing is fine. I can run all day in third gear and the bike never stops pulling. The problem is hot starting. It is inconsistent. Sometimes half a kick with no throttle, others a dead horse would get going sooner. I lost 45 seconds at the last race I did and I followed the Yamaha tech academy starting technique exactly. Well it is possible I kick the bike too hard, but I've tried many ways. Same results.

Ken, I read on TT that some racers are using the kickers and buttons to start bikes when at the line. Nonetheless I've got the power tuner but ready to try something else.

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